is the greatest miracle of all, sir; it is the water of the lake that they get blessed and heated; come here, and I'll show you how it is made." Upon walking a few paces forward, he pointed out a large boiler, adding, "You needn't laugh, sir, for I've seen men who could scarcely stand upright, after they had taken the 'wine' grow quite strong and hearty; although some of them had not taken more than three meals in nine days, all at once they grew as strong as if they had taken their meat constant."

I make no comments. They are taught to believe that the stimulating effect of warm water upon their empty stomachs is miraculous. Their penances being over, their friends meet them in the boats with refreshments and spirits, and too frequently a heavy score of sins is run up before the pilgrims have lost sight of the Lough.

While making a sketch from the Friars' Island a heavy shower came on, after which I partook of some refreshment, and pitying the boatman and guide who had got such a wetting on my account, I made three parts of the contents of my flask of black currant cordial. As we rowed back to the mainland, C― questioned me as to where it was to be bought, and upon being informed that it came from Dublin, he said, "I was thinking so much, for the likes of it is not in these parts." After a long and thoughtful pause he said, "I wouldn't say, sir, but it would be good for a man's salvation!" Well, C, except to save him from taking cold, I

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fear it would have no other efficacy." "I don't know, sir, but sure what's so good for the body must do some good to the poor soul!”

Wending my way back by the boggy and rocky paths through the mountains to the high road, I arrived late in theevening at Pettigo, with humbled feelings, almost regretting that I was so unfortunate as to verify so much that I had previously heard of the superstitions practised at this place.

The Lake is upon the estate of Mr. Leslie, of Glasslough, county of Monaghan, who derives £200 per year for the right of ferry. It has proved a profitable speculation to those who have farmed it. The usual rate of charge is sixpence each, and it is calculated that from ten to twelve thousand visit the island in the course

of the season; these pay dues to the amount of a shilling to two shillings and sixpence a head.

The description given by Bishop Jones, in 1647, will apply in many respects to the place at present. He notices the little cross of St. Patrick, part broken, part standing, just as it is now. In his time there were six saints' beds, or beds of penance-(there are seven).

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Pilgrims are continually praying or kneeling at those beds, and they are compassed around with sharp stones, and difficult passages for the accommodation of the barefooted." He also notices the stones, "which are the memorials of some that are elsewhere buried;" also the "thatched cabins, and place for shriv

ing or confession; the same period of "nine days for pilgrims to remain on the island," as now; quoting Roth, he also notices the virtue of the water of the lake for drinking, &c.

Thus in the nineteenth century, the superstitions of Lough Derg, which have so often been condemned by Popes and dignitaries, and suppressed by Governments, and generally discouraged by the regular clergy, still continue to attract thousands of annual votaries. When will the faithful minister of Christ stand upon those desolate shores and speak to the weary-hearted pilgrims the true words of comfort:-" Ho, every one that thirsteth, come ye to the waters, and he that hath no money; come ye, buy, and eat; yea, come, buy wine and milk without money and without price."

CHAPTER XX.

LOUGH ERNE.

Lough Erne-Route to Enniskillen-Boa Island-Castle Archdall— Rockfield-Rosfad-Devenish-Round Tower-Abbey-Enniskillen-The Upper Lake-Belleisle-Erne Navigation-Improvement of Lough Erne-Crom Castle-Castle Saunderson.

ALTHOUGH SO truly beautiful, and by far the most extensive chain of lake scenery in Ireland, Lough Erne is yet comparatively little known, and certainly not appreciated in proportion to its merits. It may be said to occupy the heart of the province of Ulster, and extends, under various names, from Killeshandra, in Cavan, to the town of Belleek, a distance of more than fifty-four miles. It assumes a great variety of shapes, sometimes forming a labyrinth of waters intertwining in a most extraordinary manner amidst innumerable islands, like a network of rivers; again suddenly expanding, forming many noble sheets of water, appearing as if they were distinct Loughs: at length it gains its greatest expansion in the lower Lake, where it is at least nine miles broad by fourteen long. Its most beautiful features are the richly planted islands which cluster throughout the entire of the upper Lake, and are thickly scattered through the most picturesque parts of the lower, the most pleasing of which are those

in the vicinity of Ely Lodge, the charming summer residence of the Marquess of Ely, and those within the range of Castle Archdall. Its great defect is the absence of mountains, which strips it of the sublime aspects which constitute the chief attraction of Killarney; the Churchhill Mountains, however, exhibit some bold and interesting features as seen from the opposite side on the northern shores; but what it wants of the sublime is abundantly compensated by the beautiful.

Supposing the tourist to be at Pettigo, the route to Enniskillen will give him some of the finest points of view upon the whole lake. Within two miles of it, is Clonelly, the residence of Mr. Barton; about four miles further on you pass through the village of Kesh, between which and Belleek the Lower Lake attains its greatest expansion. Boa Island, containing about 1300 acres of rich grazing land, is also visible from this point, and upon fine clear days the distant woods of Castle Callwell and the steep escarpments of Shean Mountain and Pol a Phuca, have a charming effect.

After leaving Kesh the Lake is lost sight of until you approach Castle Archdall, the splendid seat of Colonel Mervyn Archdall, which is especially worthy of a visit, and has always been regarded as the finest point of view upon Lough Erne. The mansion-house is a very fine building, and is beautifully situated upon the shores of a deep bay, which is studded with the most lovely islands; some of which are laid out in pleasure grounds, and form a matchless foreground to the widely expanded