Page images
PDF
EPUB

striking architectural feature of the place. On the hillside above the church are the remains of an old abbey.

The road to Carrick keeps the valley of the Ballyduff river for a good mile, and then crossing this stream ascends a slope of moorland, and again descending, shows you, nestling in the bosom of the giant Slieve League,

CARRICK, a small village situated on the bank of the Teelin river, about a mile above Teelin Bay.

Distances.-Glen, 6 miles; Malinmore, 7 miles; Ardara, 14 miles; Glenties, 20 miles.

"The tourist should make Carrick his headquarters, at the pleasant little hotel built by Mr Connolly, M.P., where he will find great cleanliness and civility, with peculiar advantages for exploring a district teeming with coast and mountain beauty."* The lover of cliff scenery will have high holiday in this district. The writer of Murray's Handbook truly remarks that "the twenty miles from Teelin Bay to Loughros Bay is, as far as coast scenery goes, not to be excelled by any locality in Great Britain."+

* Murray.

†The visitor will observe that the line of coast alluded to is nearly twice twenty miles.

I. EXCURSION TO SLIEVE LEAGUE.

The tourist should tell his guide to lead him first to Carrigan Head. The road holds an even tenor on the left bank of the Teelin river, and then alongside the estuary of the same name. Teelin Bay is perfect in that peculiar beauty which belongs to landscape, of which all the lines of the picture are sharp, and every feature striking. In this landlocked little bay, with all its bold surroundings, you have views in rich abundance, which, if you have a turn for drawing, you will be tempted to sit down and sketch. Conspicuous amongst the cottages (which are pretty numerous) on the right bank is the glebe-house, (Rev. E. Labatt,) and down at the very gate of the harbour is a coast-guard station. As the tourist pursues his pleasant road, he will notice the heaps of bog iron-ore, which is found in large quantities in the elevated moors inland, and taken to Teelin for shipment. At the end of the third mile he takes a path to the right, which will lead him over the hill to the old martello signaltower, whence he may begin to explore the magnificent precipices of Carrigan Head, a truly noble pier, 745 feet high, terminating in Slieve League at its southern end. On the mind susceptible in the least degree of the sublime, the impression pro

[ocr errors]

duced by these precipices is intensely sensational."

A word about the visitor of weak nerve, and unaccustomed to cliff scenery. close to the verge of these

To such a one coming steeps, suddenly every

object, except the immense expanse of ocean far below, and the empty space of sky before him and above him, goes out of his sight, and he feels as if the ground had by some magical influence shot back from under his feet, leaving him poised in mid-air, and this awful feeling may at once grow into one of helpless terror. Often one thrown into some such panic by the presence of an abyss is made miserable by the well-meant encouragements of others of his party. Encouragement is a necessary remedy, but it ought not to be accompanied with banter, which only serves to irritate the mind more and more; nor by vehemence of argument, because the will is for the moment beyond the dominion of the reason. The best course is to let the person so affected rest a while on the lesser elevations, until the eye has been somewhat familiarised with the scenery, and has learned to measure steadily all its lines. When the visitor can look calmly on the spot where he plants his foot, and feels the ground solid under him, it is a sign that he has recovered the even balance of his faculties; he may then proceed, and those

sensations which before were panic or terror, become the most elevating and delicious of excitements, surpassing anything that the finest efforts of the stage could produce.

From Carrigan Head the cliff curves slightly inward, making a small bay, called Bunglass. Ascending a short stretch of hill, you suddenly find yourself on the verge of Bunglass precipices, "where a view of singular magnificence bursts upon you-a view that, of its kind, is probably unequalled in the British Isles. The lofty mountain of Slieve League gives, on the land side, no promise of the magnificence that it presents from the sea, being in front a mural precipice of nearly 2000 feet in height, descending to the water's edge in one superb escarp

ment

'Around

Whose cavern'd base the whirlpools and the waves,
Bursting and eddying irresistibly,

Rage and resound for ever.'

The place where you stand is called the Awark-Mor, that is, the Great View. And it is in very truth a great view. As you stand at the end of a curve, a great portion of the face of the cliff is brought within your ken. At first the extraordinary altitude of the cliffs, descending sheer to the ocean, produces a sense that so absorbs one as to *Shelley, cit. apud Murray.

leave no room for other impressions. But as by degrees the eye comes to take in the picture in detail, a play of line and colour in wonderful combination enchants the spectator. All round the sweep of precipice there is a variety and richness of colour. The hues of the different strata of rocks, the stains of metals, the various tints of clays and mosses,-in short, every colour in the rainbow, and every variety of shade, come out before you in the sunshine—a magnificent mosaic-work, beside which the noblest efforts of human art sink into veriest miniature; and then, the depths below supplying this wonderful crescent with a translucent floor of blue, dark almost to blackness, and the line of precipices beyond breaking, as they recede, into abutments, and towers, and aerial tableaux, all go to make up the foreground of the Awark-Mor. Somewhat to the right, not many feet below the edge, is a dark dint in the face of the precipice called the Eagle's Nest, a fit abode truly for the royal bird.

To enjoy the scenery well, the visitor should ascend by a path from Bunglass along the verge of the precipice the whole way up to the top of the mountain. On approaching the summit line he will find that the mountain narrows to an edge, called the One Man's Path, from the circumstance that they who are bold enough to tread it must pass in

« PreviousContinue »