and keeping close to the shore, abounds in all the incident of exciting coast scenery, and affords fine views of mountain ranges away to the left. About a mile or so from Rosnakil, on one of the inlets of the Mulroy, is the tower of Moross Castle, one of the many fortresses belonging to the MacSwynes. The pedestrian, who is fond of cliff scenery, should proceed northwards by one of the pathways over the mountains, to explore the cliffs at Rinmore Point, and continue on to the lighthouse, (ninety feet above high water,) on Fanet Head, and return southward by the coast of Lough Swilly to Rathmullan. The distance from Fanet Head to Dunaff, on the opposite side of the entrance into Lough Swilly, is only four miles.

There is a car-road running from Rosnakil across the peninsula between the Knockalla Hills, and appearing on Lough Swilly over Ballymacstocker Bay, where the Saldanha was wrecked in 1811, and from thence along the coast to Doagh, one of the most primitive native villages that it is possible to conceive. The coast scenery here is particularly fine, especially at the Seven Arches, a series of marine caves accessible by land. Near the Brown George Rock is a splendid natural arch, (eighty feet in height.)

As the tourist proceeds southward, along the

coast, passing the Knockalla Battery, he gets fine views over Lough Swilly and the Inishowen seaboard, and the mountains in the background culminating in Slieve Snaght. Looking up the Lough one gets a lovely view of quiet water and woody shore, while close on the right are the Knockalla Hills, whose broken summit-line and numerous offshoots give grandeur and variety to the soft beauty of the landscape. Near Lamb's Head Bay, at a village called Drumhallagh, is a tolerably perfect Giant's Bed, formed of large flat stones placed on their edge. Leaving Lamb's Head Bay behind, your road descends into a pretty country skirting Kinnegar strand, and, passing the glebe-house, Drumhallagh House, Fort Royal, and Rathmullan House, (the beautiful residence of T. Batt, Esq.,) you enter

RATHMULLAN, a little town charmingly situated on the very edge of Lough Swilly's pleasant shore. Behind is a range of hills, the highest point of which, Crockanaffrin, is 1137 feet. It is worth while to make an excursion to the top of this hill or Croaghan, (1010 feet,) which is nearer; for the extraordinary view over the inlets and indentations of this singular coast will put the traveller more in mind of Norwegian fiords than British scenery. In the town are the ruins of a Carmelite priory, "and a castle adjoining, formerly occupied by the M'Swine

Faugh, the possessor of Fanait. The eastern part, used as a church until a late period, exhibits considerable traces of pointed Gothic architecture. Over the east window there still remains a figure of St Patrick. The architecture of the remainder of the building is of the Elizabethan age, a great part of it having been rebuilt by Bishop Knox, of the diocess of Raphoe, in 1618, on obtaining possession of the manor of Rathmullan from Turlogh Oge M'Swine."*

of

Rathmullan is characterized by two of the most deeply interesting incidents in the history of Tirconnell. Towards the end of the sixteenth century there was growing up in Tirconnell, a youth, "whose name and renown spread through the five provinces of Ireland, even before he had arrived at the age manhood, for his goodly growth, wisdom, sagacity, and noble deeds, and the people in general used to say that he was really the prophesied one."+ This was Hugh Roe, heir-presumptive to the throne of Tirconnell, his father, then an old man, being the reigning chieftain. Sir John Perrott, the then lord-deputy of Ireland, determined to get possession of the young prince, and with this view had a ship fitted up and well stored with Spanish wines. The vessel sailed round from Dublin, and put into Lough Swilly, in which neighbourhood the young

Lord George Hill. + Annals of the Four Masters, A.D. 1587.

O'Donnell was staying with his foster-father, MacSwyne-na-Thua ;* and the crew, representing themselves as Spanish traders, opened a traffic in wines with the people on the shore. The scheme succeeded. Hugh Roe and some young companions, coming into the neighbourhood of Rathmullan, were invited by MacSwyne of Fanad, the lord of the castle at Rathmullan, to an entertainment in which they should try the quality of the wine newly imported. A messenger was sent from the castle for a good supply, but word was sent back by the captain that all the wine they had for sale had been disposed of; if, however, the noble company at the castle would condescend to visit the ship, he should take it as a great honour to treat them to the choicest samples in his stock.

There was no need

"The generous prince, Red Hugh,

Unguarded quits the fortress walls and stands amidst the crew; Down with the hatches, set the sails, we've won the wished-for

prize;

Above the rebel's prison-cell to-morrow's sun shall rise.

Untasted foams the Spanish wine, the board is spread in vain ; The hand that waved a welcome forth is shackled by a chain; Yet faster, faster through the deep, the vessel glideth on— Tirconnell's towers like phantoms fade, the last faint trace is gone."+

* The MacSwyne of the Axes.

+ Ballad.

The reader will find the subsequent career of Hugh Roe briefly sketched in the historical notice of Tirconnell, prefixed to these excursions.

The little town of Rathmullan witnessed another incident far more important and far more touching than the kidnapping of the young Hugh Roe. This event is known as "the flight of the Earls." A ship carried from Rathmullan "the Earl O'Neil, (Hugh, son of Ferdoragh,) and the Earl O'Donnell, (Rory, son of Hugh, who was son of Manus,) and many other nobles of the province of Ulster. These are the persons who went with O'Neil, namely, his Countess Catherina, daughter of Magennis, and her three sons-Hugh the Baron, John, and Brian.

These were they who went with the Earl O'Donnell, namely, Caffar, his brother, with his sister, Nuala ; Hugh, the earl's child, wanting three weeks of being one year old; Rose, daughter of O'Doherty, and wife of Caffar. . . . They embarked on the festival of the Holy Cross, in autumn, (1607.) This was a distinguished company; and it is certain that the sea has not borne and the wind has not wafted, in modern times, a number of persons in one ship more eminent, illustrious, or noble in point of genealogy, heroic deeds, valour, feats of arms, and brave achievements than they. Would that God had but permitted them to remain in their patrimonial inherit