THE second court, which is of larger extent than the first square, may be also visited by strangers; but it is contrary to etiquette for any person to enter it on horseback.---Here are some fountains surrounded by Cypress trees; many beautiful Kiosks, baths, and other buildings, together with the Imperial stables; and in front of several apartments belonging to the principal officers, is a gallery of not inelegant appearance.

THE Council chamber or Divan, where the Vizeer and Effendee (learned men) hold their courts of justice, is a low building, with a gallery on one side, which leads to the Grand Signior's residence, where it is pretended that he not unfrequently places himself privately to overhear the decisions of his law officers; a mode well adapted to be a check upon the mal-administration of justice, in a country where bribery and private influence are acknowledged to havesuperseded the virtue of impartiality; but which is now resorted to for scarcely any other purpose than that of gratifying an unprincely curiosity.---On the right hand side of the square are the kitchens, confectionary rooms, and other offices of that department: near these are many large brass cocks, which, by means of pipes communicating with the aqueduct of the palace, supply prodigious quantities of water for the use of those who reside in this division..

A THIRD gate leads to that part of the Seraglio where am

bassadors find their privileges of no further avail towards satisfying their curiosity.---It is from hence they must be contented to return, like other less dignified personages, without having obtained admittance to one private chamber, or one moment's private conference.---The haughty Sultaun scarcely receives them with the common usages of civility; and it is not very long since the representatives of majesty were compelled to leave their swords behind them, and to return from the presence, backwards, in the most humiliating posture, rather than offend the imperious monarch of the crescent *.---That my late and much respected friend Hugh Boyd should have submitted to this degradation before the savage monarch of Candia, residing in the almost impenetrable recesses of woody mountains, when he was deputed from the Government of Madras, was excusable; but that the sovereigns of Europe, with fleets and armies at their orders, and whilst the point of the Seraglio is easily assailable by both,

* IT must be observed, that the Porte has lately relaxed considerably from the haughty conduct it formerly maintained; and from prudential motives, rather than from any spirit of toleration, has not only blended unusual civility with the forms of office, but also established a residence of its ministers at several of the courts of Europe. The same disposition has induced the present Sultaun to present the order of the Crescent to several British officers of distinguished merit; but these political civilities will effect no change in the opinions universally entertained throughout the Ottomaun dominions of the Christians' inferiority.

upon

should have submitted to the indignity, is scarcely credible.---To the honor of Monsieur de Feriol, a French ambassador, he resisted these despotic customs, and peremptorily refused waiting the Sultaun, although he was then in the palace, and had been invested with the Kaftan, or dress of ceremony used on such occasions, unless he were admitted with his sword, which he alleged was part of the dress of his Sovereign Master.---He even struck one of the officers of the Porte, who endeavored to wrest his sword from him, and absolutely quitted the Seraglio without having delivered his credentials; notwithstanding which, he remained twelve years afterwards in quality of ambassador, and terminated several successful negociations.

THUS far, then, that is to the third gate, I had access by following the suite of Monsieur le Comte de Choiseul Gouffier when he presented his credentials. The party consisted of the gentlemen attached to the mission, with guards and interpreters; a number of French officers, then in some respects connected with the service of the Turks; all the respectable French inhabitants, and many foreigners, who were accidentally in Constantinople at the time. Every thing was conducted with great form and ceremony: The horses were richly caparisoned; and the whole appearance was consistent with the dignity of the ambassador. As soon as the cavalcade arrived at the second gate of the Seraglio, every one alighted, and a considerable number of inferior

officers, Bostangees, and Janissaries, conducted his Excellency to the Capigee Bashah, who acts upon these occasions as master of the ceremonies. Here were brought the dresses called Kaftan, with which all those who are presented to the Sultaun are previously invested; not, however, according to common opinion, as a mark of distinction or respect, but as the remains of a custom formerly established, which compelled every ambassador to be com→ pletely habited in the Turkish manner before he could be allowed to see the light of the presence, as the interpreters of the Porte are pleased to term it. His Excellency, with his immediate suite, was introduced to the Sultaun; and after going through the usual ceremonies, which are detailed in almost every book that treats of the Levant, returned to his palace at Pera in the same manner as he came to the Seraglio.

CHAP. IV.

REMARKS UPON THE INTRODUCTION OF FRENCH OFFICERS INTO THE TURKISH MILITARY SERVICE-SANCTA SOPHIA- -SULTAUN SOLYMAUN'S MOSQUE----ATMEIDAUN----BURNT PILLAR----CASTLE OF SEVEN TOWERS—AQUEDUCT OF VALENS-HOUSES OF CONSTAN

TINOPLE---CONFLAGRATIONS.

A NUMBER of intelligent French military officers, about this time, poured into Constantinople, who taught the Turks a better system of military tactics than that to which they were accustomed; and dissertations upon the art of gunnery were frequently delivered by them to the Turkish officers through the medium of Drugomauns or interpreters. Our court could not but see with a jealous eye the preponderance of French influence; and our respectable ambassador, Sir Robert Ainslie, frequently experienced, I believe, that the consideration which he had for many years enjoyed in the interior of the Divan gradually diminished after Monsieur de Choiseul Gouffier's arrival at the Porte.