TRAVELS IN EUROPE, ASIA MINOR, AND ARABI A. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION- --DEPARTURE FROM GRAVESEND-----ARRIVAL AT EXMOUTH----EXTORTION AND OBSTINACY OF A PILOT----STRAITS OF GIBRALTAR----ISLAND OF ALBORAN- -NICE-- -GENOA----LEGHORN- --PASSAGE ON THE ARNO----PISA-RETURN TO LEG HORN---HOSPITALS IN ITALY. ALTHOUGH LTHOUGH the motive which may have actuated a traveller, upon the commencement of his journeys, be in itself of little or no importance to the public, it is customary to explain the reasons which induced him to undertake them, and what were the principal objects of his researches. In compliance with this A established usage, I could wish to state some considerations of general interest, for having prosecuted so long and dangerous a route as that which forms the subject of the following pages; but a regard to truth compels me to acknowledge, that I was influenced merely by my natural and irresistible inclination to visit distant and unfrequented countries; an inclination which very early persuaded me, that, with good humor, a spirit of accommodation, and an abundant share of patience, the difficulties of travelling might be surmounted, and many of its dangers avoided. UNDER this persuasion, I endeavored to divest myself of those prejudices in favor of English customs, which too frequently prevent us from allowing either comfort or convenience to be found in any other; and taught myself the propriety of a tacit acquiescence, amongst foreigners, in situations where neither my judgment could approve, nor my taste be gratified. THE liberality of an indulgent father had already permitted my residence in France for two years; when, soon after my return to England, I accidentally met with an acquaintance of my earlier years, who was then captain of a ship bound to Italy and Smyrna. So favorable an opportunity of gratifying my desire to travel renewed it with augmented force; and estimating all inconveniences or sacrifices as trivial, in comparison to the satis (3) faction which I promised myself, I embarked at Gravesend, in June 1785, for the Mediterranean. WITH light winds and variable weather we coasted along the southern shores of England until we reached the river Ex in Devonshire, where the remainder of the ship's cargo was to be received. Strong westerly breezes succeeding to the milder airs we had experienced, rendered our approach to Exmouth tedious; but a pilot observing our signal, came on board; and taking charge of the vessel, relieved the captain of his immediate responsibility. The entrance of the river Ex is not wholly without difficulty; and being compelled to work up it with an unfavorable wind, we stood so far over on the eastern bank, that the ship, whilst in stays, grounded abaft. Upon her head-sails filling, she drew off again into deep water; but the concussion was violent, and severely felt by me in the cabin. Hastily ascending the deck, I found the captain remonstrating with the pilot upon his error, and its probable fatal consequences: His observations, however, were but little attended to; and the fellow, with a thousand imprecations, swore that the ship had neither grounded nor had been within a quarter of a mile of any danger, notwithstanding the evidence of all on board to the contrary. THE solidity of the vessel, which had not been launched more than three months, resisting the accident, she fortunately recei 4 ved no material damage; but the circumstance could not fail of giving rise to reflections upon the dangers to which are exposed, in the hands of this boisterous and daring class of men, the lives and fortunes of so material a part of our countrymen. DURING our detention for three weeks near the village of Exmouth, I made frequent excursions to the beautiful grounds which embellish the estate of Powderham Castle, belonging to Lord Courtenay, as well as to several other picturesque situations near Exeter. At length we took a final leave of England. THE exactions to which captains of ships, and sea-faring people in particular, must submit, were not avoided, so long as one of the harpy race of port-residents remained with us. The pilot employed to conduct the vessel out of the river, who was a worthy prototype of him already mentioned, demanded a payment so much beyond the limits of justice or common usage, that our captain refused to injure his owners' interests by consenting to allow it. An altercation took place between them, which engrossed their attention so deeply, that we had proceeded at least ten miles before the pilot began to recollect the distance which every moment increased his difficulty; when, blustering and swearing, two potent arguments with the vulgar, he declared he would not quit the ship without the sum he had claimed, which I think was thirty guineas; and dared the captain to take 4 |