the north end is Saddle Head, at the entrance of Blacksod Bay. Between this and the smaller island of Achill Beg is a channel called Achill Hole, where vessels drawing 10 or 12 feet of water may rest in safety in all weathers. A very powerful tide runs in the Sound at the northern entrance called the Bull's Mouth.'

This was the country of the O'Mahonys, who had one of their strongholds in Clare Island, which lies in the middle of the entrance of Clew Bay, about 15 miles from Westport, and containing about 4,000 acres. One of its mountains, Knockmare, is 1,520 feet; the soil is extremely fertile. A light-house crowns a lofty cliff on the north-east extremity. There was once a Carmelite abbey on the island, founded in 1274. There is a village at the east end in which there is an old square castle, once the fortress of Grace O'Mahony or Graña Uaile, the celebrated female freebooter who paid a visit to Queen Elizabeth, and who took revenge for a neglect of the rites of hospitality by carrying off the son and heir of Lord Howth from Howth Castle. She had another stronghold at Carrickahooly, four miles from Newport, at the top of Newport Bay. She was the daughter of the Irish chief, Owen O'Mahony, and was married first to The O'Flagherty, and next to Sir Richard Burke, with whom she entered into a special engagement for a limited period, each reserving the right of saying, 'I dismiss you,' on certain conditions. Having got possession of one of his strongholds and other advantages, as he returned home one day, she met him at the door, and said, 'I dismiss you,' and so ended the connexion. She kept a small fleet of pirates, with crews of adventurous seamen collected from all quarters. Her larger vessels were moored at Clare Island; her smaller craft at Carrickahooly; and she had a cable fastened to her bed-room window in the castle, that she might be ready to take ship at a moment's warning. The skull of this naval heroine was religiously preserved in Clare Abbey, adorned with ribbons and gold ear-rings, until it was sacrilegiously stolen by a Scotchman, who plundered the graveyards along the western coast of the human skulls and other bones lying about, which he carried off for manure. Amidst the lamentations and execrations which

this outrage excited among the peasantry, it was admitted to be not altogether an unjust retribution for the depredations of old Grana Uaile on the coast of Scotland.

In order to get a complete view of Clew Bay, with its archipelago of a hundred green islands, its Alpine surroundings, and the boundless expanse of the Atlantic ocean, it is necessary to ascend Croagh Patrick, the foot of which is about four miles from Westport. Cars for the excursion are always to be had at the hotel. When this feat is accomplished, we start by the public car for Clifden and Galway, in order to get the best views of the coast scenery around the Connemara mountains. The journey by the River Erriff runs over wild moorland and bog. The glen through which this river passes is picturesque; and here the Twelve Pins rise upon the view in all their grandeur. We have now entered Joyce's country, and we may be thankful for the excellent roads that have been constructed through bogs and defiles in this wild region. Previous to 1813 the only roads through Connemara were footpaths, or 'bridle roads,' over bogs and rocky heights, dangerous at all times, and often impassible in winter. But now an excellent carriage road makes the circuit of the whole coast, and enables us to drive round inlets, bays, cliffs, and enjoy, without trouble, the most picturesque scenery. A capital road proceeds right through Connemara, from Galway to Clifden, and from Clifden winds round by the Killerys to Westport. These roads were constructed by the Board of Works, and their immense advantage to the district soon became conspicuous. Trade and commerce were introduced to the extremity of Connemara. The poor village of Clifden became a considerable market town. The people of the country districts live chiefly by agriculture; and this district has contributed a large proportion of the emigrants that have left our shores to enrich America, the El Dorado of their hopes. But in reality there is no need for these people to emigrate. There is plenty of land in Connemara, immense tracts of moor, intersected by clear streams, quite capable of being reclaimed, and converted into farms, by the industry that enables our emigrants to prosper in the American wilderness. What can be done in this way has been shown in the experiment made by

members of the Society of Friends at Letterfrack. The settlement is a neat village, with shops, schools, &c., surrounded by a well-cultivated district, reclaimed and planted.

At Leenane we are in the midst of the glorious scenery of Killery Bay, where every tourist will be disposed to linger as long as he can. It is an arm of the sea, running ten miles between precipitous mountains, and not more than half a mile wide, the mountains descending almost perpendicularly to the water's side, and leaving room only for the road. One of the mountains-Muilrea-rises to the height of 2,688 feet, and Bengarm to 2,303. This lake-like bay wants only wood to make it surpass anything in Killarney, in point of beauty as well as grandeur, while the presence of the Atlantic, rushing with its stupendous might into the fiord, produces a rare combination of awe-inspiring sublimity. From the Leenane hotel excursions are made to Salrock, the seat of the late General Thompson, a charming spot; and to Delphin, the romantically situated lodge of the Hon. Mr. Plunket, at the end of Finlough; concerning which it has been said that if Connemara contained no other attraction, this would be worth a journey from London.

The road to the Maam Hotel runs through the glens between the Maam, Turk, and the Lugnabricka mountains, passing a waterfall, and the ancient burial place of the Joyces. From Leenane to Clifden the road skirts Kilemore Lake, through the Pass of Kilemore. This pass is about three miles in length, and shut in by mountains at each side. Here Mitchell Henry, Esq., of Manchester, M.P. for Galway, has erected a magnificent castle, surrounded by beautiful gardens and plantations, which forms a striking object—a fairy-like creation-presenting the contrast of modern civilization with the savage wildness of nature.

The next resting-place on the road to Cong is Maam, where there is a hotel built by Mr. Nimmo, and now, it appears, the property of the Earl of Leitrim. Very fine views are obtained from this point on the road to Cong, as well as on the road to Clifden. We may come to Galway either way. At Cong we shall find the steamer, and at Clifden Bianconi's car. There is a steamer from Cong to Galway daily in summer; whoever takes that trip should prepare

himself for it, by reading Sir William Wilde's learned and beautifully illustrated work on Lough Corrib. Of Annakeen Castle, Sir William Wilde says "Perhaps there is not in the British Isles a similar example of such admirably constructed masonry, of its class and period. Some of the arches of the windows are circular, some pointed. The architecture of the castle may, with safety, be ascribed to a date five and a half centuries ago.' Ross Abbey, situated on the Black River, was founded about the middle of the fourteenth century, for the Franciscans. The total length of the church is 128 feet, and its breadth 20 feet.

Cong is a most interesting little town, at the head of Lough Corrib. The ruins of the Abbey, which were carefully preserved, and partially repaired, so as to prevent further decay, by the late Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness, proprietor of the town, will show what noble buildings were erected in these wild regions by the men who flourished in the old times.

Clifden, the capital of Connemara, is charmingly situated, sheltered among the mountains near the Atlantic shore, and surrounded with picturesque scenery. The Rev. Hyacinth Darcy, J.P., now rector of the parish, the former owner, is a public-spirited gentleman, who delighted in making improvements, and especially devoted himself to the education of the poor. The ancient seat of the Darcys, Clifden Castle, is worthy of a visit. Proceeding by mail-car to Galway (there are two cars daily-fare, 7s. 6d.), we soon reach Ballinahinch, the late domain of the benevolent family of the Martins, who, for several generations, possessed the entire district lying around-a district amounting to nearly 200,000 acres, and stretching over a space of 30 or 40 miles. Now that family are extinct, and, in the vicissitudes of fortune, the entire property has passed into the hands of the London Law and Life Insurance Company. On a small islet in the lake are the ruins of the keep of an ancient castle. The modern mansion is a very plain structure in the centre of the demesne. Near Ballinahinch we pass the road to

Roundstone, a distance of seven and a half miles. The road is on the south side of the Lough, and affords magnificent views. The small town is beautifully situated, close to the cliffs, over Roundstone Bay. There is a comfortable

hotel, a church, a Presbyterian meeting-house, and a Catholic chapel. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of an abbey. From this point there are gorgeous views of Galway Bay, of Arran Islands, and the cliffs of Mohir.

The next point of interest on our road is Glendalough, one and a half miles in length, with Ballynahinoch Lough, and Lough Inagh, which lie nearly together in a group. Fronting Glendalough are two hotels for the accommodation: of anglers. The Connemara Mountains, called the 'Twelve Pins,' now rise upon our view in all their Alpine grandeur,, The height of the principal are-Bencorr, 2,336 feet; Benbaun, 2,305 feet; Derryclare, 2,220-feet; Bengower, 2,184 feet; Bencullaghduff, 2,290 feet; Benlettery, 1,904 feet.

In

Oughterard is a small town, with picturesque surroundings, on the river Owenriff, which flows into Lough Corrib, which is about one mile distant. From this point of the Lough boats can be obtained to the town of Cong, nine miles, and cars can be had at Oughterard, which has two inns. this neighbourhood is Aughnamure Castle, the ancient stronghold of the O'Flaherties. Several small lakes are passed as we drive over the dreary moorland between Oughterard and the Half-way House, which is twenty-seven miles from Galway. This is a small hotel or inn, much frequented by anglers, who fish in the numerous lakes and rivers, or who wish to ramble along the coast of Kilkieran Bay, about ten miles distant,

CHAPTER XX.

GALWAY TO DUBLIN.

GALWAY.

ALWAY county is bounded north by Mayo and Roscommon, east by Roscommon, King's Co., and Tipperary, south by Clare and Galway Bay, west by the Atlantic. Length, 84 miles; breadth, 62; containing 1,566,354 acres, of which 742,805 are arable, 23,718 in plantations,