Selgadalr, some way out of town; where, for his reception, they had spread an extensive picnic, to which I was also invited: and when all had partaken of the wine from Copenhagen, the ladies, who had acted the part of servants, according to the custom of this country, and of cup-bearers, cleared away the things. Horses were ordered, the whole party mounted, and then, to all appearance, began the journey home; but this was not the case, although our journey lay in that direction, for, by-and-by, the order was given to draw up at a well-to-do farmhouse, dismount, and take some coffee.

I well remember the conversation turning upon reindeer, which exist in Iceland, but are very rarely seen—in fact, are only to be found in two corners of the island, south-west, and north-east. And even these are not indigenous to the country, having been, originally, brought over by someone from Norway, and let loose, while no one ever thinks of going out to look for reindeer, and any

farmer, who may chance to meet with buck or doe upon his land, will have no peace till he has killed the same, and saved his sheep from their imaginary danger. Nor do they ever harness the animal in this country. There is no such thing as a tame reindeer in Iceland; only in Lapland, or some parts of Sweden-quite another region of the globe. Speaking of the use of reindeer in a sledge, Moore says:

"I saw the moon rise clear,

O'er hills and vales of snow,
Nor taught my fleet reindeer
The path he was to go.
But quick he bounded forth,
For well my reindeer knew
I've but one path on earth-

The path that leads to you!"

A pair of tame reindeer were offered to me once for 20 dalers, Norwegian (4 10s. or so), but not until long after this. As for the Laplanders, their whole wealth consists in reindeer, and to drive them, a piece of rope is fastened to each horn, by the gentleman, who then gets into

the sledge and guides them, in that manner,

where to go.

Setting off again we got into a good gallop, every horse being familiar with the road, and arrived at Reikjavik about 9 P.M., previous to which I picked up Gudmundr at the place agreed upon the other day. Etiquette has laid it down upon these riding parties, that the whole number on horseback shall escort each other home, stopping at the different houses as they pass, till the whole party, and only in order of their rank, have been deposited in safety. We came in by the east end of the town, passed between houses all semi-detached, with geraniums or fuchsias in every window, while the whole appearance of the place manifested great cleanliness and care. With a population of between two and three thousand only, this bright and healthy little capital "is well laid out into streets, while the social circles of the better sort indicate a refinement and happiness, which might be envied in more civilized places of

the globe." The day following, myself and Gudmundr resolved to rest upon our oars, and began that festive mode of life, to be received from house to house, in which the good people of Reikjavik show welcome to a stranger, to the weatherbound or captive traveller, laid up in port. For general intelligence, the inhabitants of Reikjavik are equal to any capital in Europe, and I shall ever remember their kind attention during the whole period of my stay. As to the mode of visiting, people's cards were often to be found pinned on my front door-since the houses of Reikjavik have neither bell nor knocker!--and the letters of introduction which I took appeared not to be wanted after all. In the streets at night, there is a likeness to Pompeii, arctic twilight blending with the same "inexplicable stillness;" and the apartments I occupied were in the centre of the town, looking out upon that open space behind, called Austrovellir; while in front, was a view of the sea. The anchorage is good, and the

bay defended from heavy seas by several small islands, which render it a safe harbour. The appearance of Reikjavik is happy and bright in the extreme, although its name would imply an overhanging cloud of smoke-like that part of Edinburgh known as the "Auld Reekie "—but only refers, here, to some hot-water springs in the neighbourhood, that frequently form clouds of steam. The town is built upon one end, or corner, of a great plain, consisting entirely of lava, with just enough earth to allow some wide patches of grass upon its surface, and a fair sprinkling of farmhouses, but, as this part has been inhabited ever since the Norwegian settlement of Iceland, the date of this lava and the fact of its being here at all, would pertain to Iceland in the Prehistoric Times!

More than a fortnight at Reikjavik was no unfortunate delay, and I only then weighed anchor for the north because of a grand opportunity for seeing all the coast, which was