FROM ICELAND TO NORWAY. T length it was time to leave Iceland, which I did with great regret, having lived among the people and become accustomed to their mode of life; and having resisted the invitation of a neighbour of my host to stay with him for a week and get some seal shooting, I rode for three days-on one day thirteen hours in the saddle-to Hvalfjord; and, as this was now three hundred and sixty miles I had travelled in Iceland on horseback, from this point crossed over to Reikjavik by open boat. The steamboat Fon Sigurdsson had come back to Reikjavik, after finishing her business in the north, probably at Akureyri, where I did not happen to go with her, on account of disembarking at Bordeyri on the way. That same Akureyri is a thriving place, and the only village on the whole north coast; blocked up with ice, however, during winter. The steamboat Jon Sigurdsson had come back to Reikjavik, and was continuing her course that very night across the Atlantic and German oceans, to Bergen, in Norway. But she was only, by rights, a river steamer, not built for open sea at all; and, having had doubts about her while upon the passage round the coast, I would not go with her to Norway; did not like one or two things, and so declined what would appear to be the shortest and most comfortable route. Wishing to go on to Norway, I determined to engage a boat and sail over. This resolution, moreover, was seconded by the sight of a small sloop in the harbour, among other ships, one which was of only six-and-twenty tons. I may here be allowed to mention that the steamboat Jon Sigurdsson was compelled, it was told me afterwards in Norway, to return to Reikjavik for safety upon this very voyage, unable to meet the rough weather and heavy seas; and that, on getting eventually to Bergen, she was sent into dock and never tried this passage any more. So I engaged the six-andtwenty, making her wait till the day after, the wind promising to be still fair, or anyhow to take us out of Faxa Fjord into the open sea. 66 Sunday, August 25th (private journal).— Farewell to all, with great regret. This evening, came on board." It would be difficult to express my feelings on being shown the only small cabin we had to get into, five feet by four, and the only satisfaction was in knowing one would have to lend a hand on board, so live on deck, thus only be at night below or in spare time. For our whole ship's company consisted of a skipper and three hands, myself extra, together with a man who served out the provisions, took care of everything on board, kept the cabin clean, and so on. "Ah! what pleasant visions haunt me As I gaze upon the sea! All the old romantic legends, All my dreams come back to me, And the heart of the great ocean Sends a thrilling pulse through me." Early on Monday morning, the 26th of August, before daylight, I heard them weigh the anchor, and very soon became aware we had set sail. Keeping the south coast of Faxa Fjord, with the land upon our left, and open bay upon the right, we set her square-sail and went out to westward with a favourable east wind, but slowly; and did not pass the cape called Reikjanaes till half past eight that evening, about which time we furled her square-sail, no longer having to run before the wind, and brought her round, directly she had left Cape Reikjanaes, to keep close to the wind, our course over to Norway now lying pretty nearly due east. Ingolf, our vessel, was cutterrigged. She had formerly been a fishing smack, full built aft, and was taking now for ballast a cargo of close packed Icelandic wool-at least I was told so, but never saw it. With only one mast, she had a jib, foresail, mainsail, and gaff topsail that we never used; the square-sail, only when she could run before the wind. Her length over all was fifty feet, breadth of beam eighteen feet, speed, with a fair wind, nine knots (which, for her feeble proportions, was not at all bad)close-hauled, would keep four points up to the wind. And now that we had got her fairly out, presently the wind fell: there was no mistake about it, she was becalmed already. The hands, of whom two have since been drowned, being only fishermen, instantly threw out their lines, but to my profound satisfaction got nothing by it, as I had begun to fear they might neglect our progress, poor fellows, for their favourite pursuit. As we lay to until night they pointed out a huge |