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[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] RAISING LAMBS FOR BUTCHERS---No. 2. After the ewes are well rested, and used to grass so that there is no danger of over-eating, they may gradually be put on better pasture. At this time an important point is to be aimed at, and kept steadily in view, viz., not to hurry your ewes too fast in the fall, so that the thrift cannot be kept up in the winter, but aim at a constant gain in condition, changing from worse to better, and not from better to worse. Of course if your ewes are good milkers, as they begin to spring bag they will begin to get thin; but this thinness is perfectly natural, and does not interfere with the ewes being in good heart and very thrifty. About the 1st of Oct., I should say,-others, Nov. 1st,-the ram should be turned

in.

I have now to write on a delicate matter, but I shall write what I know to be so, and reserve the proof for the future, if it becomes necessary to produce it. In selecting your stock ram then, don't be too pinching, but buy a good one, as it will be money well laid out, and that you will never regret; and by all means buy a South-Down. As I have watched this matter closely for fourteen years, I can say with confidence that no other breed is better or as good. But it does not follow that you need buy of me. There are many good South-Down flocks. I would be glad if there were ten times as many. I might mention Mr. Thorne's of New-York State, Thomas Buffum of Newport, R. I., Mr. John Worth, Westchester, Chester Co., Pa., and very many others; but my readers will notice

their advertisements.

When I first commenced with South-Downs, many of our old fashioned farmers would not pay ten dollars for a ram lamb. Since seeing the great advantage, these same farmers have willingly paid $25 for ram lambs, only keeping from 20 to 50 ewes, and will any day tell you that they would not be without a South-Down ram for fifty dollars; but I have said, and say now, that from $15 to $25 is enough for a farmer to pay for a ram lamb just to raise butcher's lambs, Some contend that a Leicester, Cotswold or other long-wool, is as good, but a host of wit nesses say they are not. A few years ago many of the Leicesters were scattered in this section, but after a fair trial, the South-Down proved so much better, that I do not know of a single Leicester left. Some of our farmers used both in one season, dividing the ewes equally. The result was that the South-Down cross was fat and sold clean before a single Leicester cross was fit for market. The best of New-York butchers buy lambs in this section; they all say use by all means a full blood South-Down ram. I may here stop to say that all black-faced sheep are not South-Downs, and that the improved South-Down is much

better than the common.

Every thing working as it should, by the 1st of March your lambs will commence dropping. I should therefore commence about Feb. 1st, to give the ewes some grain, and gradually increase to half a pint apiece by March 1st -then by April 1st have it increased to one pint of cornmeal or one and a half pints oats. If the ground should be much bare, so that the ewes can get to the ground, they will not need roots before lambing, but if confined to yards on clover hay and cornstalks, I should give about one pound turnips apiece per day, increasing to ten pounds when lambs are four weeks old; but if the ewes can run through April on good sod intended for plowing, they will not need so many roots. Many of our best farmers never feed any roots, but they keep no more sheep than they can keep well; yet it is at this point that roots are of great service, as they help to keep the sheep off the grass intended for pasture until it gets well started, and that almost insures good pasture through the season. When the lambs are three or four weeks old, they can be learned to eat cornmeal by putting a little in the Both, mixed with a little salt. After learning a few to flectict of the hand, partition off a pen under shelter by relativeves, putting a bottom and top railing across, then

nailing pickets on just wide enough to exclude the ewes, and put a small trough within, placing in it some sweet cornmeal, ground coarse, and a little salt at first sprinkled on. Your lambs will soon find it out, and if you please to take time, you will find it an advantage to cut some turnips or potatoes up fine for them.

By now giving your ewes plenty to eat, and nursing your lambs, they should be fit for market in June, and the ewes in September worth $1 more than cost, which, with lambs and wool, should pay full $6.50 or $7 per head for ewes wintered, especially if you raise many twins.

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EARLY TRAINING OF COLTS. Early training on a judicious system is acknowledged to produce the best results with the young. J. F. French of North Hampton, gives in the New-England Farmer, a communication on this subject, from which we abstract the following paragraph :

"I have two colts, one eight months old, and the other one year and eight months. They are both accustomed to the harness. The oldest I have frequently used in the sleigh. On one occasion this winter, when sleighing was good, it has taken me, together with my little son, to Portsmouth and back, a distance of nine miles each way, with no inconvenience or injury whatever. The colt is large of its age, in good condition as to its flesh, and high spirited; and I required it to walk at least two-thirds of the distance each way. It was well fed in the city, taken through streets where it could hear various sounds, and witness all sorts of objects-still it was not suffered to tire, or scarcely to sweat at all, and to every appearance was as lively and bright when I reached home as when I started. To have forced it beyond its strength that distance, or half the distance, would have been injurious-but careful training is always beneficial, and we rarely begin too young with anything."

Lambert Maynard, owner of "Trotting Childers," who has had much experience in raising and training colts, told Mr. F. that "his colts are all broken to the harness before they are a year old, or as he more properly expressed it, educated. He rarely, if ever, uses a whip. As to its injuring them to use them so young, he remarked that he never exercised them so hard as they exercise themselves when alone."

The editor of the Farmer adds: "No suggestion with regard to colts can be more judicious. The highest spirited colt we ever saw we broke in accordance with the suggestions given by Mr. French. We began by putting on the bridle only, and continued through an entire month to add various parts of the harness, until he was perfectly accustomed to every part of it. He was allowed to stand with the harness on from morning until noon, when it was taken off, the colt watered and fed, and after dinner a part or the whole harness put on again. At the end of this time we put him to a light wagon, alone, and drove him a mile, and had no trouble with him afterward."

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.j SAWDUST AS LITTER FOR STABLES. Every person who has had any experience in milking in stables, knows how difficult it is to keep the milk free from any foreign matter, which does not add much to its flavor. I have practiced several years, fall and spring, while cows were in milk, to litter my stable with sawdust, by applying at night one bushel to eight cows. I accomplish a triple object by it. It keeps the stable clean; it keeps the cows cleaner; and last, not least, it adds to the manure pile by absorbing the urine of the animals. Let the doubting try it. HIRAM WALKER. Mexico, N. Y.

Who is the most unpopular officer with some of the ladies ?-General Housework.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] HOW TO SHEAR SHEEP.

Having seen an article on shearing sheep in your paper, which seemed to me was unworkmanlike and behind the times, and hoping that some may be benefitted by a few directions that will be of great value to the beginner, if not to an old hand; and even he, if induced to follow, may give up his tying and the waggon boxes.

Any ordinary floor that the farmer has, where he can have his sheep handy, will answer the purpose. If one man is to shear alone, take some strong material, (gunny bags ripped open are as good as anything,) so that they will make a piece say 6 by 8 feet, or what is better 8 by 10; spread some short straw or any litter that is not too short on the floor, and tack your cloth over it, using common lath or any thin strips to nail through-making the straw as even as you can. If there is to be more than one shearer, it is better to have one bed for each man, but where room is scarce, it will do to have them together. At the end of the day you will find that this will pay When this is done, and your place swept out, you are ready for the sheep. See that it is clean of all straw and dirt at the door of the pen; lay the sheep down on its right side, rest on your left knee being at the back of the sheep; put your right foot over the sheep, carrying his left fore leg well forward, and with your left hand on his left hind leg pressed well back, you will have your sheep ready for operation. Begin on the upper side of his stomach, and shear lengthwise of the sheep; shear the brisket and the inside of the hind legs-be careful to cut off all of the small locks-(if they are left on they look very bad.) When you have the stomach sheared then you stand astride of the sheep, and with your right hand raise the head a little ways from the bed, and shear with your left hand as far as the back of the neck. Here a beginner may use his right hand occasionally-be careful not to go beyond the back bone.

For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] TEACHING CALVES TO DRINK. MESSRS. EDITORS-In the Co. GENT. of April 24th, A. Moss gave us a very good article on the treatment of cows and calves, but I must beg leave to differ from him with regard to teaching calves to drink. He says that he "backs them up in one corner of the yard or stable, puts their neck between his knees, puts his finger in their mouths, then inserts their nose in the pail, and in this way they soon learn to help themselves." Two years ago I should probably have swallowed the whole of this as "law and gospel," but my experience last spring taught me better doctrine. Having two calves that I wished to separate from the cows, I shut them up in the stable one night after they had sucked, and the next morning I milkthem, but it was "no go;" neither of them would eat. At ed in a common wooden pail, and set it before one of night I milked again and placed it before them, when they drank it in double quick time. I know farmers who regularly practice this mode of treating their calves, and You can add meal to it, and they will eat Brother farmers try it, it as readily as they do the milk. and report progress. F. A. WHITBECK. Yaphank, L. Ï.

with success.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.j Coarse Flour and Meal for Raising Calves. It requires no labored argument to convince any farmer at the present day, that it is better for the cow and calf both, that the calf should be brought up separate from the dam; as the teasing and worry of the calf is injurious to her, besides keeping her constantly excited. As it is not good economy to rear them on new milk, it becomes necessary to substitute some other food to mix with the skimmed milk or whey, to make up for the loss of the butter or cheese in the food, and not produce a loose state of the bowels. I have tried scalding corn-meal and corn and rye together; then I have made it into a pudding, as you would for table use-giving them a portion in each meal; but always found more or less difficulty in making them eat it, and when they did, its effect was too loose a state of bowels. For several years I have used a coarse

As you shear, raise the sheep up gradually so that by the time you are at the shoulder you will have the sheep sitting on his rump-then you will be on your right knee with the sheep's head over your left leg and under your arm-shear well down in this position until you have to reach after the wool. Now let the sheep come down gradually, until by the time you are at the hind leg, he will lay flat-then you will be astride of him on your knees, with your right foot over his neck, which will keep him from flouncing. When this side is done, proceed with the other in the same way, but using the right handour, which I could buy at the same price of corn-meal, (you will perceive that the fleece is at his back all the and use it uncooked. It readily mixes with the milk or time.) If you prefer using your right hand all the time, it readily, and they thrive on this mixture as on new milk. whey-does not settle to the bottom like meal; they eat then lay the sheep on the other side to begin, or some practice feeding calves in this way till fall feed is good, like that way the best where they use the left hand. If and have no more trouble to winter them than I do my the right hand is used all the time, the work will not COWS. I keep them in the same stable with my cows;

look as well and evenly.

I

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] CARE OF HORSES.

The way to hold the shears to cut a smooth and even of oat-meal each per day, or its equivalent, and when give them the same chance, with the addition of one quart cut, is to grasp the shears partly on the blade, and bring grass comes they thrive at once, without waiting half the them partly shut, and run them in the wool, having pre-season to recruit. HIRAM WALKER, Mexico, N. Y. viously drawn the skin smooth where it is inclined to wrinkle-pressing against the sheep-shut the shears but a little way with a draw back at the same time, and if done rightly, it will leave the sheep in handsome ridges of to I inch wide-that will be so close to the skin that it will often sunburn on long wool sheep with the edges about one-quarter of an inch long. Any one who has seen sheep shorn in this way, will gladly give up the old way which leaves some of it nearly an inch long, and with an appearance as if it had been gnawed off, which makes your flock of sheep look badly for a long time.

The tendency to cut the sheep is greatly lessened when shorn in this way. I have shorn a great many in a day, that did not have even a pinch on them. To cut one is the exception, not the rule.

I have written this in hopes that Young Farmer may induce his neighbors to adopt this way, and for any other shearers who may see this. I have seen men at forty give up the Young Farmer's way and learn this method.

April 14th, 1862,

ISAAC S. HALLOCK.

I have found one table spoonful of air-slacked lime, each alternate day, often cure a horse with a heavy cough from a cold. Many horses, if blanketed in the stable, will take a cold every time they get a dash of rain in the winter, when if not blanketed in the stable, they will be entirely free. The blanket should be used when standing out, and if the horse is extra heated coming in, till the blood has time to get to its usual heat. This I have practiced for about twenty years, and have lost no horses.

JERSEY.

The Ashtabula Co. (Ohio) Ag. Society has appointed its next exhibition at Jefferson, Sept. 24-26. President, CALVIN DODGE; Secretary, W. H. Burgess.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] How to Improve a Badly Run Farm.

MESSRS. EDITORS-Having in a former article advised those with limited means, to buy farms that were more or less run down, and stated that they would have to adopt some course of improvement, by which the land may be brought up and made productive, I will now proceed to point out the course that it will be best for them to pur

sue.

The first and most important point to be considered and attended too, is a general change of crops. Most farms that are run down, have been under a long course of cropping with one or more of the different small grains, such as wheat, rye, barley or oats-one of these grains generally being made a leading crop; in wheat sections, it is wheat, in other sections oats. And although rye and barley are raised to some extent, yet a large portion of badly run land has been mainly cropped with wheat or oats; while these crops are calculated to have as bad effect on land, and to give it a poor worn-out appearance as quick as perhaps any other crops; though in reality it may not be so very badly run down for other crops, be sides wheat and oats. Again, such land is generally not plowed more than four or five inches deep; consequently, though the land may sooner appear to be worn out, yet in reality it is only badly run to that depth. Hence a change of crops, and deep and thorough cultivation, may be expected to produce excellent results.

This may be illustrated by relating a little of my own experience. (And here let me say, I do not intend to state or recommend anything in these remarks, that I do not consider warranted by my own experience or observation.) I commenced farming on a small place that had been let to neighboring farmers,-no one residing on the place for many years, before it came into my hands. As is often the case, all that was raised was taken off from, and nothing returned to the land. It had not been seeded down for a long time until the spring before I bought it, it was seeded to clover. Wheat had been the principal crop, alternating occasionally with oats-the last crop, which was oats, only yielding some twelve or thirteen bushels per acre. It was so badly run out, that it was difficult to get any one to take it. The spring it came into my possession, I planted six acres to corn and potatoes, the corn yielding at the rate of fifty bushels of shelled corn to the acre, and the potatoes at the rate of 160 bushels per acre. These crops were raised without any manure, except the clover sod of the previous spring's seeding, and were undoubtedly due to a change of crops, deep plowing, and good cultivation. Nor was this all; by making a general change of crops and management, the land was not only made productive and profitable, but the general appearance and credit of the place was brought up and improved so much, that when I wished to sell and buy a larger farm, it sold for about double what it cost me. I have also pursued a similar course or change of crops on my present farm,-which was considerably run down with very satisfactory results.

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There are many similar instances of the great benefit of a change of crops, that have come under my notice, but I can make room for only one or two. One is in regard to a piece of rather poor hemlock land, that, as it was not considered very good wheat land, had been kept in spring crops some years, and as the owner said, "wanted seeding down." He said he did not expect much wheat, as it was not wheat land, and had been a going in spring crops some time and wanted rest; but that in order to get it in a good condition for meadow, and well seeded, he was going to summer fallow and sow it to wheat." Yet that field gave 30 bushels per acre, which was an extra crop for that kind of land, In another instance, the same kind of land that had been badly run to spring crops, was sown to wheat on oat stubble, and gave over 20 bushels per acre.

Having shown that a change of crops produces good

results, we would continue to make use of this fact, as far as circumstances will admit, by adopting a systematic change or rotation of crops. There are many good and sufficient reasons besides those already given, in favor of a rotation; but the readers of the Co. GENT. being familiar with them, I shall proceed to consider what crops should be included in a rotation for a badly run out farm. be to consider what crops have been grown to impoverish Perhaps the best way to determine this question, will the land. But this has already been done to some extent, in considering the necessity of a change of crops. Hence, having seen that the small grains have been the principal crops raised in running down the land, it will be best to raise as little as possible of them, and find some other crops to take their place.

Now there is one crop that I have seldom, if ever, heard charged with wearing out, or even injuring land. True, we sometimes hear of land becoming clover sick " in England. But I believe such cases are exceedingly rare, if there are any at all, in this country, and more especially when plaster is sown on the clover, as it always should be on all but very rich lands. But on the contrary, while clover never impoverishes land, it is seldom raised without improving the soil and putting it in a much better state for other crops; and this improvement being much greater and more surprising on badly run land that has been but seldom, if ever, clovered. Again, clover can be made a very profitable crop, as I hope to show when writing more in detail in regard to its cultivation. Now for these reasons, and many more, some of which may be given another time, clover should be the leading crop in bringing up land.

Next to clover I consider corn the best crop to grow in improving the soil. The reason for this opinion can be easily made apparent to all, in this way. Who ever heard of land being run down where clover and corn were the principal crops; and these crops, made good by thorough and deep cultivation and manuring, were mostly consumed on the farm, as, of course, they should be? Such cases must be exceedingly rare, if indeed there are any. For my part, I have yet to meet with the first one. True, run down land will not continue to produce as good crops for any considerable length of time after a change as it does at first. Yet by raising clover and corn for the principal crops, and feeding a large portion of both on the farm, the land may be constantly improving, and the crops after the first and principal effect of a change is worn off, be continually growing better. It is true that corn grown year after year on the same field for a long time will on most soils run down the land. But when it is grown only once in four or five years, in a judicious rotation, and everything in relation to the crop well managed, the general effect and result will be altogether different.

But, though corn and clover should be the principal crops, yet there should be some kind of grain sown after corn to seed down with. What this should be may perhaps be best determined in each particular section, regard being had not only to what would be likely to succeed best, but also to the kind of grain that clover will take the best with, it being always important to get a good seeding.

In considering the best way to improve a badly run farm, I have not alluded to underdraining, for the reason that a man commencing on such a farm, more or less in debt, will have but little means or inclination to do any thing of the kind, but will rather choose to buy a farm that may be improved without it. Still there may be instances where it will best to buy land that needs underdraining. In such cases due allowance should be made for it in purchasing, and sufficient money retained to pay at least some portion of the expense.

As good and deep cultivation and manuring, which should include a liberal use of plaster and ashes, have been frequently alluded to, it will not be necessary in concluding, to do more than merely state that while they are very important on all farms, no one need ever think to succeed for any length of time on badly worn land without giving both the strictest attention. And that, as a general change

in the course of cropping and manner of cultivation will give good crops on the start; so these crops should be so managed and used as to give the largest amount of manure that it may be practical to make, thus making good crops add largely to the amount of manure, which in turn will add to the amount of crops, and this course followed up, will be sure, sooner or later, to make a good productive farm. F. Orleans Co., N. Y.

Stealing Fruit, and Hedges for Protection.

stock; and the ligature must press evenly and with sufficient force to bring the cut face of the inserted bud into close contact with the wood of the stock. On a stiff thick bark, or with a stiff bud, this pressure must be stronger than with a softer bark, which might be injured if too severe. For the details of the operation, see the first number of the Illustrated Annual Register or the first volume of Rural Affairs, p. 60, where every part is minutely described and made plain by engravings.

Usefulness of Toads in Gardens,

I have a vineyard which last year suffered greatly from the depredations of idle boys and men-so much that I At a recent meeting of the Brooklyn Hort. Society, the lost nearly half of the fruit, and as the Empire State can- subject of toads in gardens was under discussion, when not boast of a law to protect the fruit and vine-grower, I Mr. Burgess, an "old country gardener of long exhave taken the liberty to request you to inform me through perience," stated "that thirty years observation had conthe Co. GENT., if there is not some hedge plant (in connection with a board fence,) whose thorns would make it vinced him that it was the snail and not the toad which impassable. Is the Osage Orange hardy enough? If not, devoured strawberries and their vines. Most people athow is the Buckthorn or Honey Locust? Would either of tributed the destruction to toads, but he was certain that them do? Your experience will no doubt at once suggest they were harmless. In gardens he considered them of the best and most reliable. H. V. F. Stuyvesant, N. Y. great use, and all gardeners should look upon them as their best friends. Mr. Fuller endorsed all that had been The Osage Orange forms the most terrific barrier against said upon the subject, and he was glad to hear it. He fruit thieves-being densely armed along all the branches believed the toad a most valuable auxiliary to the garor shoots with stiff and very short thorns; and when these dener. They were worth $500 a piece, as they keep the constitute a thick hedge, attempting to pass is a most un-ground clear of insects entirely. Besides they can be desirable task. The winters at Stuyvesant may be too domesticated! This was not generally known; nevertheless it was true. Those in his garden knew him, and severe; yet possibly by cutting a good underdrain along would follow in order to get the insects, caterpillars, etc. or near the line of the hedge, the plants may be enabled Their preservation ought to be attended to. Mr. Burgess to endure the winters, or if cut back partially by frost it was of the opinion that there should be a fine for killing may prove a serious detriment. Next to the Osage, the them." Honey Locust is probably best. It is very hardy, and some of the plants are quite thorny. It needs cutting back well, to form a dense hedge. The Buckthorn is both hardy and dense in growth, but is nearly destitute of thorns. Whatever may be used for the hedge, it will prove a perfect failure, unless properly cut back, and a strip of land four or five feet wide on each side, is kept clean and well cultivated for some years.

Budding Fruit Trees.

Will you or some of your correspondents tell me the proper time for budding the peach, cherry, apple, and pear also the "modus operandi," and much oblige a

YOUNG FARMER

ROOT PRUNING FRUIT TREES.

At the last evening meeting of the Brooklyn Horticultural Society, the subject of root pruning was discussed. Mr. Burgess said that unless properly attended to, fruit trees, when early, bear three times too much, thus exhausting themselves. They should be root pruned the first three years, and fed with rotten manure. Mr. Brophy, another practical gardener, stated that he had done root pruning for 22 years; all fruit trees require such attention, because the roots spread. Cutting gives them a healthy condition. The length of a pear tree root is wonderful; he had known those of comparatively young trees to extend twenty feet. Mr. Burgess-I have seen them thirty-five feet long. Mr. Brophy considered it necessary for any fruit tree, pear, apple, quince, cherry, etc., to be spaded round about two feet in the spring; this will im

The root

As a general rule, bud when the bark peels freely, and towards the latter part of this peeling season, as the new-prove it. He cited as proof that the best orchards are ly formed buds are then more mature and better ripened where the ground is plowed every year. It is the stirring than before, and the cambium or cement between the bark and cutting the roots which gives them their thrifty and wood is thicker and causes the bud to adhere better. condition. Mr. Fuller remarked that a root never feeds A little later still, when the bark is not easily raised from from the same place two years; as its main stem grows and extends, it throws out fibres or rootlets at different the wood, the operation cannot be well performed, and places. These side roots successively die off each year. will be likely to fail. This period will vary much accord-The root of a grapevine feeds at the end, and if six feet ing to the influences which affect growth, as season, culti- long, the space between it and the vine is lost. vation, soil, &c., but usually the cherry must be budded should be cut down to two feet. Also with all stoned first, then the apple and pear, and lastly the peach. As down to two feet. Old quince trees should be pruned, fruit trees, if six feet high, the root should be pruned soon as the cherry begins to form the terminate bud of its for the rootlets die off, and the main stem needs food. shoots, budding should be performed; this is often about When this pruning is done, the roots should be fed with or soon, after midsummer. In some places, pear stocks rich soil, &c. Mr. Fuller illustrated what he meant by cease growing quite as early; while in others growth con- some strawberry roots; from a root of six inches he trimtinues a month later-in the latter case, the work may of med off half, and would even prefer only one inch of root to the whole of it. He also explained in an interesting course be done much later. Budding the peach is usually and intelligent manner, that strawberries were biennial and done in the last week of summer and the first two weeks not perennial, as generally suppposed, and showed from the roots present that the original died off when two years

of autumn.

The great leading requisite for success is a freely grow-old. A member desired to know which was the best-to ing stock. On such a stock the bark will peel freely; while on an unthrifty or stunted one, it will not peel at all, and the work cannot be done. A sharp knife is essential for cutting off the bud, and slitting the bark of the

prune in spring and feed with rich soil, or in the fall and not feed the roots. Mr. Fuller replied that the operation in the spring would ensure a fall crop the next season, while if done in the fall, only half a crop would be obtained.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] CULTURE OF INDIAN CORN.

For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.]

Seasoned Fence Posts---Cheap and Good Fence. EDITORS CO. GENT.-Some thirty-three years since I had about five hundred panels of post and rail fence made. The posts were locust, the rails white oak Some ten years since the principal part of the posts were so decayed that it became necessary to build the fence over; there was a remnant of about forty panels that appeared to stand firm, and of course was not repaired when the balance was made over. Although ten years have now passed since the balance was made over, yet the fence stands firm, and possibly will last from two to four or six years longer.

In answer to the call of O. W. TRUE of Maine, in the Co. GENT. of April 17th, for more specific directions for raising corn, I will detail my own practice more at length for his and others' benefit. As soon as convenient after the buckwheat has been removed, we haul and spread all the manure that may have been made after wheat sowing, and thus we go on hauling and spreading the manure pretty much as it is made through the winter as the weather may permit, finishing generally some time in April, so as to plant, if circumstances favor it, about the 1st of May. The time of applying the manure does not appear to affect the yield of corn, but the product is plainly in proportion This fence now standing, was made from well seasoned to the quantity and quality of manure. By shallow plow-locust. Nothing could be more conclusive to my mind, ing, I mean the shallower the better, provided the ground is turned upside down, but it is difficult to make good that it was the condition of the timber from which the work under four or five inches deep. I was cured of deep posts were made, which has caused it to last ten years lonplowing for corn long ago; and as for subsoiling, I have ger than that which was made from green timber. For seen too much of it by others to try it myself. When we the last ten years I have built more or less fence out of plant in bills, the poultry droppings are hoed up fine, and strips of boards, or perhaps they might be denominated a man preceding the droppers divides a handfull among laths. I cut my timber fourteen feet long, and have it four or five hills, and draws a little dirt on it with his foot sawed three inches wide and one inch thick. The timber to prevent the grain coming in immediate contact with I use is white oak. Other kinds of hard wood might anthe manure, which would be dangerous. When we have swer, but not as well. Five of these laths are a sufficient drilled the corn, the fine manure was sowed on the sur- shield against any stock which has weight of character face afterward, but I would prefer having it covered with sufficient to be suffered to run at large. Three posts form the seed, hence the inquiry in regard to the Gage. a panel; each lath receives three fence nails, one at each post-nine-penny nails are the best. I have never known Chester Co., Pa. the nails to be drawn or broken by shrinkage, which is often the case with wide boards. A fence of this des

A. W. W. [For the Cultivator and Country Gentleman ]

What I Have Learned about Raising Corn in cription can never be injured by the action of the wind,

Thirty Years.

and unlike post and rail fence, it will not sag down hill or on sideling ground.

1. It is best to plow the land well before planting, beIn the construction of a fence of this kind, the concause that will save work in planting and hoeing, although sumption of timber is but trifling, which is in many sections of our country, a matter of first importance. If the it does not usually increase the crop-indeed I have seen posts are locust and seasoned, it would be safe to say that good corn grow on the same land for several years in suc-a fence of this description would last thirty years. After cession without the land being plowed at all.

2. It is best (if planted in hills) to make the rows run both ways, and then the cultivator or plow will go both ways, and it will be but little work to hoe it. It is also best to put a little quick manure in the hill, to give it an early start, but if guano is used in the hill put it 5 or 6 inches one side of the seed; if it is put under the seed, it will kill it.

3. It is best to try or sprout some of the seed before planting, to be sure it will grow. Do not get the bills too thick, 34 feet each way, four stalks in a hill, is right on my land-if I plant thicker, the ears will be small. It is better to plant some sort of corn which inclines to grow a cob longer than will fill out on the tip end, as there will then be room on the cob for as much corn to grow as the strength of the land will admit of.

4. When hoeing, the top of the ground should be kept mellow and level, and free from weeds. When ready to hoe the last time, which should be the first part of July, scatter a very little turnip seed all over the ground, and if the land is in good order, there will probably be a fair crop of turnips for cattle, provided the corn is cut up by the roots as soon as it is ripe enough; but if the corn stand too late, turnips will be scarce.

5. It is hard to keep the same sort of seed a long time, because if I save for seed the ears which are first ripe, in a few years it gives a small, early sort. If I save the largest ears for seed, it only takes a few years to get a very late sort. If I save such ears as grow two on a stalk I soon have a sort which will grow 3 or 4, or 5, ears on a stalk, but all small.

6. Corn will shrink by drying in the crib more than we are apt to suppose-probably 25 bushels out of 100. When I succeed in raising 100 bushels of well dried corn on one acre in one year, I intend to save the corn till all my neighbors can see it. C. B. Near Springfield, Mass.

a little practice, two men can put up twelve panels per day. Efficiency and economy considered, I like the above described fence better than any I have ever had on my

farm.

Elm Grove, Ohio Co., Va.

N. P. A.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator. Protection of Fruit Trees from Curculios, &c. MESSRS. LUTHER TUCKER & SON-I had occasion to visit a friend a few days ago. I took a walk through his orchard, and observed some plum and cherry trees with something tied around them, which on closer inspection, proved to be cotton batting. On inquiring what it was for, Mr. W. informed me that it was a plan of his for preventing insects (which eat up everything in the shape of a plum, nectarine, &c., in this part of the country,) from climbing the trees and destroying the fruit.

He has some very fine plums, which have blossomed and formed fruit well for 3 years, but it was all destroyed by insects, until he used the cotton wool, since which he has never failed in having a large crop of plums, &c.“

The "modus operandi" is as follows:-Procure some cotton batting, cut it in strips 3 inches wide, wrap it around the trunk of the tree about 24 feet from the ground; then tie a string about an inch from the bottom so that the top will hang over somewhat like an umbrella. This effectually prevents the insects and ants (which are very troublesome in this neighborhood not only eating the fruit but also the tender shoots,) from passing up the trunk, as it is impossible for them to go through or to cross it.

I send you this, hoping it may be of service to some of the plum growers among whom your journal is circulated. G. D. N.

Jefferson County, Ky.

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