and the strength of the lungs. A good under various aspects, we landed from out boat, and scrambled upon the top of them. We there found some pieces of wood thrown up by the sea, with which we kindled a fire in the face of the Frozen Ocean, and began to place to which we might retire with some prepare a repast. In looking about for a comfort, we discovered a grotto formed by three rocks, whose smooth and polished sides indicated that they had heretofore been washed for many ages by the waves of the sea. In the midst of these rocks was a large roundish stone, under which there ran a journey, my good gentlemen-gentlemen-gentlemen-gentlemen-a good journey-journey--journey, my good gentlemen-gentlemen,-a good jourhey-journey-journey-journey, and so cn, as long as they were able to breathe. Kauto Keino is inhabited by four families and a priest; an annual fair is held here, which is frequented by the neighbouring Laplanders, and by the merchants from Tornea, who exchange coarse flannel, brandy, tobacco, meat and salt, for furs and rein-deer skins. Alten-Gaard was their next stage; the solitary habitation of a Norwegian merchant in sight of the Frozen Ocean. Here they were hospitably and indeed magnificently entertained, and hence they were advised to proceed by sea to the North Cape. Their host procured them an open boat with four oars, and stored it abundantly. They coasted from the Monday noon till the night between Friday and Saturday following, and arrived at the North Cape, the extremest point of Europe exactly at midnight. "The North Cape is an enormous rock, which projecting far into the ocean, and being exposed to all the fury of the waves and the outrage of tempests, crumbles every year more and more into ruins. Here every thing is solitary, every thing is steril, every thing sad and despondent. The shadowy forest no longer adorns the brow of the mountain; the singing of the birds, which enlivened even the woods of Lapland, is no longer heard in this scene of desolation; the ruggedness of the dark grey rock is not covered by a single shrub; the only music is the hoarse murmuring of the waves, ever and anon renewing their assaults on the huge masses that oppose them. The northern sun, creeping at midnight at the distance of five diameters along the horizon, and the immeasurable ocean in apparent contact with the skies, form the grand outlines in the sublime picture presented to the astonished spectator. The incessant cares and pursuits of anxious mortals are recollected as a dream; the various forms and energies of animated nature are forgotten; the earth is contemplated only in its elements, and as constituting a part of the solar system. Having made drawings of those rocks small stream of water. As we were trac ing the course of this stream, which had its found on its margin some plants of angelica. source in a neighbouring mountain, we This we regarded as a great acquisition to our table, because we had found it to be a very refreshing and salubrious vegetable. The grotto was so convenient, that it had the appearance of being the work of art. The which we could place ourselves; and we stone in the centre served for a table, around had only to stoop down to replenish our bowl with water, perfectly fresh and sweet, though we were within a few paces of the salt sea. We regretted much that we had no iron implement wherewith to engrave some motto, or at least our names on those rocks." The travellers returned in their boat to Alten, and thence to Tornea and Uleaborg. is filled with general remarks concerning The greater part of the second volume Lapland, chiefly extracted from the work of Leemius de Lapponibus, a book less rare in this country than Mr. Acerbi imagined. poorly executed, and the subjects chosen The engravings in this work are very with little discrimination. Views, or representations of dresses, are what we require to illustrate a traveller's narration, and not prints of a frozen pump at Stockholm, of a Finlander killing a bear or shooting a squirrel, or of Mr. Acerbi himself peeping at the naked women in the vapour bath. We must not, how ever, dismiss the work without asserting that its merits greatly overbalance its defects. The traveller has sometimes said too much respecting individuals, but we have never any reason to complain that he says too little; the narrative is always full, lively, and interesting. ART. IX. Travels in the Crimea. A History of the Embassy from Petersburgh to Constantinople, in 1793, including their Journey through Krementscuck, Oczukow, Walaebia, end Moldavia; with their Reception at the Court of Selim the Third. By a Secretary to the Russian Embassy. 8vo. pp. 393. IF the author of this work had not impressed upon us, in his preface, that one of the "most interesting parts of his narrative" was that of his journey across the Crimea; we should have been very likely to have passed it over, almost forgetting that it had made any part of his tour. Of a peninsula, which at different times has been under the dominion of the Hungarians, the Cossacs, and the Tartars, the Genoese, the Turks, and the Russians, which had once a population of 200,000 men of different nations and tongues; cra peninsula concerning which we know so little, but that it abounds with salt marshes and lakes, and where the narrator, by a residence of four months, had the opportunity of acquiring every sort of information quite at his leisure, we had a right to expect a more circumstantial and a profitable account. The whole of that which is before us is comprized in five and twenty pages: the description must of necessity be extremely vague and general: we have no account whatever of the nature of the soil, of what minerals are contained in its bosom, or of what other animals than sheep depasture on its surface. Scarcely a word about the policy, manners, customs, superstition, &c. of the people. But it is an ungrateful task to censure; and as a list of the desiderata would, in the present instance, occupy more room than a list of the collectanea, we cannot hesitate to present our readers with the latter. Mr. Secretary was received with the greatest courtesy at Sympheropol, by the governor, general Tschigulin, and dined several times at his table, in company with different Tartars of distinction. We are informed that these latter have some difficulty to accustom themselves to European manners, and to the new domination of the Russians, notwithstanding the continual and soothing attentions and kindness of the governor, who endeavours to make the yoke sit as lightly upon them as possible. The majority of the inhabitants adopt the Turkish manner of living, and rarely apply themselves to learning the Russian language with any accuracy. "I have had opportunities," says our author, "of By the polite and friendly assistance of general Tschigulin, our author took some excursions into the interior of the country he visited Batchisarai, the ancient residence of the khans of the Crimea, and slept in the palace. The rocks which surround this town present a singular configuration, some are rounded like a ball, others are triangular or squared; many of them have the form of a tower, and others present the image of old ruins, &c. Among them is a place called the fort of the Jews, "which was so named, partly on account of the class of men and partly from the nature of its position, which is such as to render all attempts to reduce it unavailable. This fort appears to the eye nothing more than a small insignificant village, on the point of the rock, whence it commands all the adjacent country by a superiority of elevation of several hundred feet, and is accessible only by a narrow path, hewn in the rock, wide enough for one passenger. In this spot, from time immemorial, a colony of Jews have lived a peaceful life, sheltered from the vexations to which their race has, every where else been exposed: here they freely exercise their religion, surrounded by trees of extraordinary height and beauty." The breed of Crimea sheep, so cele. brated for the beauty of their wool, and for the durability and delicacy of their skin, has suffered greatly from the numerous emigrations occasioned by the Russian conquests in this country. Our traveller took a second excursion, from Sympheropol to Sudah, which is represented as one of the most delight ful towns in all Taurida. The mountains which surround it are planted with vines, the culture of which is making a rapid progress, on account of the excellence of the wine, which is esteemed one of the best produced in the peninsula, and is highly prized in Russia. Mr. Secretary took a third excursion in order to visit Tsherderdak, "one of the highest mountains of the Crimea:" this enormous mountain" is "half as high again as all [any of] the other mountains of the Crimea, which are themselves very elevated."""We were three whole hours reaching the summit; but the enchanting prospect it afforded amply recompensed the fatigues of the journey." What an enormous mountain must T'sherderdak be!! From Sympheropol our traveller proceeds to Petersburg: "As we advanced by degrees in the southern provinces of Poland, we were sensibly struck with the difference between the numerous population and laboured culture of this country, in comparison with what we had observed in the desolate provinces of Russia." At Petersburg he resided seven months, and devotes four pages to the description of it! Perhaps, like ourselves, he was in haste to attend the embassy. In the beginning of the year 1793, the empress having determined to send an extraordinary embassy to Constantinople, her majesty bestowed this honorary mission on general Kotusow: "The Russian embassy, composed of a train of nearly 700 persons, and which presented a spectacle of truly Asiatic luxury, consisted, strictly speaking, of a single caravan. A detachment of infantry and cavalry opened and closed their march; they advanced by very slow stages; every evening an encampment was formed according to all their rules of military art; and every third day was devoted to relaxation and rest. It was not till the sixth month after they left Petersburg that they arrived at Constantinople, and their ceremonial entry was in an uncommon degree memorable and brilliant." The Dneister forms the line of demarcation between the two states, and as an ambassador was proceeding from the court of Constantinople to that of St. Petersburg, it was agreed that the passage of this river should be performed at the same time by the suites of both the embassies. Nothing could be more strikingly contrasted than the appearance of the Turkish embassy and our own. The one was seen covered with wealth, gold, silver, and costly ornaments; while the other exhibited the greatest simplicity, and the most martial and Here every thing impressive appearance. was in brilliant confusion; Turkish horses immense value, which reached to the ground; richly caparisoned, covered with housings of mean and beggarly carriages; and the Turks themselves in their oriental costume, and advancing with the greatest irregularity:-there, on the contrary, all was order and propriety; not a step that was not regulated, not a manoeuvre that was not performed with the greatest precision. Deafened as we were with tumult, with horrid cries, and the discord of a barbarous music, we preserved the most perfect tranquillity; and our music was soothing, rich, and delicious. On either bank of the Dniester was a flat-bottomed boat, fitted up with the utmost magnificence, and destined for this ceremony. It was in these boats that the two envoys took their departure from their respective territories, in the midst of the volleys of artillery and the firing shores, and of the sound of all the Russian of musquetry by the troops placed on the two and Turkish intruments of music. The suite of the two embassies embarked in petty shallops, less costly in their decorations, and more simple than those which had served to transport the persons of the envoys." The very profound attentions paid to the Russian embassy on its march gave it rather the appearance of a triumphal procession than of a customary pacific fête: towns yet reeking with the blood of Turks welcomed the warriors who had slain them; and the inhabitants were content to lose, for a moment, the consciousness of their wretchedness amidst the festivities which surrounded them. Wherever the procession halted, the embassy and the Turkish officers of the place who received it, vied with each other in the sumptuousness and splendour of their entertainments. The embassy made its entrance into Constantinople on the 7th of October; the day fixed for the audience with the Grand Vizier was the 9th of November, and for that with the Grand Signior, November 12. The following is a description of the audience given by the latter: "At four o'clock in the morning we assembled at the ambassador's, and at daybreak advanced with equal order and magnificence, on the horses which had been equipped for the purpose, towards Stamboul, Arrived at the first gate of the seraglio, we found it guarded by a large number of troops and janissaries, dressed in their habits of ceremony, and placed in two ranks, in the middle of which we advanced. After waiting some moments, which on such occasions is customary with the Turks, who think that by these means they give a high idea of their grandeur and dignity, we went through two gates, and were introduced into a large court, planted with cypress trees, at the extremity of which we perceived the palace of the grand signior. Having entered a hall richly decorated, situated in the front part of the buildings composing this edifice, we found in it the grand vizier, with the captain pacha, seated on a form covered with green cloth, and employed in the distribution of justice. All foreign ambassadors are obliged to wait a considerable time in this hall, whilst these two officers dispatch different affairs, receive the complaints of the subjects, and settle their disputes. Their motive in this is, to give strangers a favourable idea of the Turkish government, and of the strictness with which justice is administered. We remarked, that they were assisted by two Turks dressed in rich habits, and who had numerous attendants; and that all complaints and petitions were first put into the hands of these two Turks, who afterwards delivered them to the grand vizier and to the capitan pacha. The sitting had lasted some time, when, at length, the grand vizier dispatched the reis-effendi to the grand signior with some words he wrote to his highness, demanding his permission to introduce the ambassador. The reis-effendi returning some moments after to the hall with a favourable answer to the request that had been made, tables were immediately furnished; and after treating the embassy in the Turkish manner, pelices and cafetans were presented to the most distinguished persons of the embassy. The ambassador partook of the refreshments téte-à-tête with the grand vizier, and put on his fur pelice a little later than the other persons. When he had reached half-way towards the sultan's apartments, he was presented with a stool decorated with gold cloth, on which he remained seated till the moment when the vizier led him to the apartment of the grand signior. At the door of the audience chamber, in which was the sultan, were ranged in lines the principal bostanges, bolding the presents of her imperial majesty. As soon as the ambassador had entered this room, the capigi pacha, took him by the arm, whilst the pelices and cafetans were distributing to the other officers of his suite. After three times saluting the grand signior, who was seated on his throne, he approached and addressed him with a discourse exactly of the same nature as that he had already pronounced to his first minister. Having given to the capitan pacha the empress's letter, he presented it to the vizier, who delivered it to the sultan, who placed it by his side, at the same time saluting the ainbassador by an inclination of the head. When he had finished speaking, he pronounced some words aloud to the grand vizier, in reply to the harangue of the ambassador. The dragoman of the court having interpreted it to M. de Kotusow, the latter again bowed to the sultan, and retired in the same order and parade with which he had entered," "The 25th November-(6th December) the anniversary of her imperial majesty, gave occasion to a magnificent gala in the hotel of the ambassador." After the celebration of divine service, in which we assisted with great devotion, in the Greek church, a very splendid repast was given, at which were present all the foreign ambassadors and agents. It continued to the end of the day, when the company was increased by a very considerable number of persons of rank and distinction, arrived from Pera. "The apartments were scarcely large enough to contain this brilliant concourse. All the women were covered with diamonds and other jewels. This is a sort of display to which so much importance is attached in this country, that a woman carries on her person her whole fortune, and sometimes the value of even twice her fortune. The capigi pacha, our old friend, and other Turks of distinction, were present at this gala. "The enchanting coup-d'œil produced by this numerous and brilliant assemblage made a very lively impression on the mussulmans, who are accustomed to keep their women in retirement. By degrees they forgot Mahomet and his prohibition, and partook of the delicious wines which were handed about, drinking to the health of the prophet, and ending by taking a part in all the pleasures of the festival. The walls of the apartment were hung with garlands and crowns of flowers; and the hotel, both in the inside and on the outside, was most tastefully illuminated. In the front were several high pyramids decorated with an infinite number of lamps; in the middle of which appeared the arms of the Russian empire, and the initials of the empress's name. The ball lasted till midnight, and was succeeded by another splendid repast, which terminated the entertainment, to the perfection of which nothing was wanting but more favourable weather; for the rain which fell did great injury to the ill minations, and diminished the effect of this charming exhibition. The capitan pacha, and the capigi pacha, the favourite of the grand signior, being informed of the brilliant "The cafetan is a robe of distinction in use among the Turks, and is the article generally used by the grand signior as a present to the perfons he wishes to distinguish; particularly to ambassadors and ether persons who are presented to him." preparations made by the ambassador for this gala, came incognito from Constantinople to partake of the numerous diversions that were to take place.". All the great officers of the Porte gave rival galas in honour of her Imperial Majesty, and in compliment to her illus trious ambassador: the grand vizier set the example, but that of the capitan pacha surpassed the rest in the splendour of its preparations and the variety of its entertainments. Although our extracts have already been unusually extended, we cannot refrain from giving our traveller's account of this splendid fête, particularly as it affords an idea of the gymnastics, and other diversions of the Turks. "About seven o'clock in the morning, the embassy ranged itself in marching order on the quay, and then proceeded towards Stamboul. On the spot where we disembarked, we found a great number of horses richly caparisoned, which served to conduct us slowly towards the residence of the capitan pacha. The streets we passed through in our way were lined on each side by miarines and sailors, dressed in short white cloaks. We were received in an apartment hung with the richest silk, and surrounded with sofas covered with satin, on one of which the capitan pacha was seated in the Turkish manner, that is to say, with his legs crossed under him. He was distinguished from the persons who surrounded him by a long green robe, and by a poniard decked with diamonds, and supported by a belt of no less value. This officer is very much beloved, and passes for a man of great worth. He has the advantage of having married one of the nieces of the grand signior, a privilege which cost him very dear, since he is often obliged to acknowledge it by the payment of large sums of money. Towards ten o'clock we sat down to dinner, which was extremely abundant; but we had neither knives, forks, nor spoons. This at first caused us a little embarrassment; but, seeing that it was not possible to obtain a better remedy, we had recourse to the means with which nature had furnished us, and used our fingers instead of them. We were also obliged to refrain from drinking wine. The Turks, notwithstanding the prohibition of Mahomet, are very fond of this liquor; but they never venture to infringe his injunction in the presence of so many wit nesses in the narrow circle of their friends they are less scrupulous, and I had more than once an opportunity of remarking with what pleasure they sacrifice to the god of the vintage, and partake of his benefits. Instead of wine, we were served with sherbet, with which necessity compelled us to be contented. * "No sooner was the repast finished, than different games commenced. About thirty Turks appeared, holding in their hands white sticks, about four feet in length, called djerid, and mounted on superb horses, chiefly of the Arabian breed. Among these Turks were some of a pretty advanced age; but who, notwithstanding their long white beards, did not display less agility than the young men with whom they entered the lists. "The art of this kind of tournament, which is called girette, or djerid, consists in throwing the stick with suficient address to strike the adversary, and in avoiding that which he darts in return. The tilters keep in a circle, full gallop, and pick up the sticks This which have fallen on the ground. game, which, by its novelty and dexterity, greatly amused us, lasted about an hour. "To this exercise succeeded combats, in which each performer was almost naked, and had his body rubbed with oil, like the ancient Greek and Roman gladiators, for the purpose of giving more Hexibility to his members, and enabling him to elude his adversary with the greater facility. This contest lasted till one of the combatants had gained a victory over his rival. The dexterity with which each man used his strength, rendered the decision a long time doubiful, till at length one of them, by a stratagem, or rather by a sudden twist, contrived to vanquish his competitor. I remarked amongst them two young Arabians, whose robust and muscular conformation generally enabled them to be victorious. "These spirited Ottomans did not confine themselves merely to gymnastic exercises, in their endeavours to give us an idea of their dexterity and martial courage. These champions were succeeded by a band of comediáns, or rather by a farce, equally ridiculous and pitiful. A poor Jew, very miserably dressed, appeared on the scene, and was the principal actor, who excited the applauses and risibility of the spectators. This is a proof what little progress the Turks have made, even among their superior classes, in matters of taste and information. "About half an hour after the conclusion of these entertainments, appeared some Turkish dancers, to give us in their turn a specimen of their skill. They entered the apartment in which the ambassador and the capitan pacha were seated. They began their performance with a kind of ballet, called the cenghi, or the janna, the uniform and illmeasured movements of which did not certainly deserve the applauses of European connoisseurs. They were accompanied by very This djerid, about four feet long, is of a very slight kind of wood, such as the willow, or datetree, and is used to avoid the accidents which might happen in this kind of tournament. |