That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 12
... waiting for it all my surfing life . I remember the water swelling beneath me and how I was perfectly in tune with its rhythm . I remember a surge of energy lifting me high above the hollowing water , the thickness of the shoulder , the ...
... waiting for it all my surfing life . I remember the water swelling beneath me and how I was perfectly in tune with its rhythm . I remember a surge of energy lifting me high above the hollowing water , the thickness of the shoulder , the ...
Page 27
... waiting for the miserable weather to pass . Occasionally , I wondered if the uncertain pleasure of an hour in the water - it was too cold to stay out any longer - was worth the three- hour drive . It wasn't just the weather that was ...
... waiting for the miserable weather to pass . Occasionally , I wondered if the uncertain pleasure of an hour in the water - it was too cold to stay out any longer - was worth the three- hour drive . It wasn't just the weather that was ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |