That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 12
... swell was sizeable but not too big for me to handle . As soon as I began to paddle for the wave , I knew I had been waiting for it all my surfing life . I remember the water swelling beneath me and how I was perfectly in tune with its ...
... swell was sizeable but not too big for me to handle . As soon as I began to paddle for the wave , I knew I had been waiting for it all my surfing life . I remember the water swelling beneath me and how I was perfectly in tune with its ...
Page 20
... swell rolled around the headland and peeled off into neat , smallish waves ideal for novices . Inter- mittently , the sun broke through the pewter clouds making the cliff glow like a freshly baked loaf of bread . It was a weekday , and ...
... swell rolled around the headland and peeled off into neat , smallish waves ideal for novices . Inter- mittently , the sun broke through the pewter clouds making the cliff glow like a freshly baked loaf of bread . It was a weekday , and ...
Page 21
... swell had always been rudimentary . What I did know was that the winter months were the best time along the Victorian coast for powerful groundswells produced by lows in the Southern Ocean . The past May had been classic : nonstop six ...
... swell had always been rudimentary . What I did know was that the winter months were the best time along the Victorian coast for powerful groundswells produced by lows in the Southern Ocean . The past May had been classic : nonstop six ...
Page 26
... swell came driving through the narrow Heads and wrapped around Point Nepean , executing a sudden right turn . One moment the swell looked as if it was passing you by , the next moment the wave was coming right at you , hollow and fast ...
... swell came driving through the narrow Heads and wrapped around Point Nepean , executing a sudden right turn . One moment the swell looked as if it was passing you by , the next moment the wave was coming right at you , hollow and fast ...
Page 29
... swell might suddenly drop away . I would constantly check the windsocks and lines of bunting I passed along the way , watching for signs of change . If I saw surfboards on cars heading back to the city , I fretted about why they were ...
... swell might suddenly drop away . I would constantly check the windsocks and lines of bunting I passed along the way , watching for signs of change . If I saw surfboards on cars heading back to the city , I fretted about why they were ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |