That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 5
... seemed to dissolve . But as I grew older and my family began spending more time at the ocean beaches , I discovered the slap - in - the - face exhilaration of the surf and the call of the blue yonder . The finite world of the swimming ...
... seemed to dissolve . But as I grew older and my family began spending more time at the ocean beaches , I discovered the slap - in - the - face exhilaration of the surf and the call of the blue yonder . The finite world of the swimming ...
Page 7
... seemed to go on forever ; as if it was folly to try to escape them , as if this was the only kind of life you could lead . As I hit the Frankston freeway , which in my mind marks the beginning of the Peninsula , I slipped on a CD of the ...
... seemed to go on forever ; as if it was folly to try to escape them , as if this was the only kind of life you could lead . As I hit the Frankston freeway , which in my mind marks the beginning of the Peninsula , I slipped on a CD of the ...
Page 14
... mirror . I grinned at my reflection . Fifteen years seemed to fall away . Flinging open the back door , I leapt down the steps and did cartwheels across the lawn . CHAPTER I The Idea of Surfing SPRING N Melbourneo , 14.
... mirror . I grinned at my reflection . Fifteen years seemed to fall away . Flinging open the back door , I leapt down the steps and did cartwheels across the lawn . CHAPTER I The Idea of Surfing SPRING N Melbourneo , 14.
Page 20
... seemed too fluid , too unpredictable an activity ; too much a matter of individual talent and tem- perament . You had to work your way out from the shorebreak , get used to being dumped and spat out ; you had to watch more experienced ...
... seemed too fluid , too unpredictable an activity ; too much a matter of individual talent and tem- perament . You had to work your way out from the shorebreak , get used to being dumped and spat out ; you had to watch more experienced ...
Page 24
... was a child I loved being dumped and churned and flung about like a rag doll , loved being at the mercy of the wave . As an adult I seemed to have lost the art of abandon , of giving myself up to the ocean . I had my life 24.
... was a child I loved being dumped and churned and flung about like a rag doll , loved being at the mercy of the wave . As an adult I seemed to have lost the art of abandon , of giving myself up to the ocean . I had my life 24.
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |