That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 3
... sand castles and lazy , endless afternoons spent snorkelling or floating on my back staring at the sky . When I was about ten years old , my older sisters and brother grew restless with this ' kids ' playground ' and we began to spend ...
... sand castles and lazy , endless afternoons spent snorkelling or floating on my back staring at the sky . When I was about ten years old , my older sisters and brother grew restless with this ' kids ' playground ' and we began to spend ...
Page 7
... sand dunes and the wind - sculpted , rolling scrub and the silver coin of the bay behind us were my own creation . I wanted to tell Nelly , who speaks as little English as I speak French , what it meant to me . C'est la côte de mon ...
... sand dunes and the wind - sculpted , rolling scrub and the silver coin of the bay behind us were my own creation . I wanted to tell Nelly , who speaks as little English as I speak French , what it meant to me . C'est la côte de mon ...
Page 9
... sand gushed out and I wondered where it was from . The beach where I had last surfed : possibly Woolamai on Phillip Island , where I had reported on a surfing carnival . It hadn't been very satisfying : I don't think I caught a single ...
... sand gushed out and I wondered where it was from . The beach where I had last surfed : possibly Woolamai on Phillip Island , where I had reported on a surfing carnival . It hadn't been very satisfying : I don't think I caught a single ...
Page 11
... one of the many breaks between Sorrento and Rye that can only be reached by hiking through the national park and clambering over acres of sand dunes . It was a glorious summer's day and it must have been very hot because I I.
... one of the many breaks between Sorrento and Rye that can only be reached by hiking through the national park and clambering over acres of sand dunes . It was a glorious summer's day and it must have been very hot because I I.
Page 25
... sand from his feet . " That would be the end of him . ' Gally had surfed the Rip a few times but didn't bother any more because it had become too crowded . It was a great left - hander , he admitted , but very tricky . At the time , I ...
... sand from his feet . " That would be the end of him . ' Gally had surfed the Rip a few times but didn't bother any more because it had become too crowded . It was a great left - hander , he admitted , but very tricky . At the time , I ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |