That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
Results 1-3 of 3
Page 1
... perfect . I knew the Rip was a prized surf break but it still took me by surprise . At its worst , during a south - westerly gale on an ebb tide , the difference between the sea level inside and outside the bay could create a wall of ...
... perfect . I knew the Rip was a prized surf break but it still took me by surprise . At its worst , during a south - westerly gale on an ebb tide , the difference between the sea level inside and outside the bay could create a wall of ...
Page 7
... perfect , thunderous lines along the coastal shelf , leaving trails of milky lace ; as if the flayed cheeks of the sand dunes and the wind - sculpted , rolling scrub and the silver coin of the bay behind us were my own creation . I ...
... perfect , thunderous lines along the coastal shelf , leaving trails of milky lace ; as if the flayed cheeks of the sand dunes and the wind - sculpted , rolling scrub and the silver coin of the bay behind us were my own creation . I ...
Page 22
... perfect , glassy wave , began rising slowly out of the lagoon like a rare , exotic beast and I knew I had to get out there . As it happened , there was a nearby kiosk where I could hire a board . I pulled on my wetsuit and was preparing ...
... perfect , glassy wave , began rising slowly out of the lagoon like a rare , exotic beast and I knew I had to get out there . As it happened , there was a nearby kiosk where I could hire a board . I pulled on my wetsuit and was preparing ...
Other editions - View all
Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |