That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 2
... passed . Soon after , another ship approached from the bay , this time in the south channel , much closer to the Corsair break . Against it , the surfer was a mere fly on an icypole stick . No wave would ever loom so precipitously or ...
... passed . Soon after , another ship approached from the bay , this time in the south channel , much closer to the Corsair break . Against it , the surfer was a mere fly on an icypole stick . No wave would ever loom so precipitously or ...
Page 21
... passed Torquay like a travelling show hellbent on making an impression in the big smoke . If I had paid more attention to the weather map and the wind direction I might not have written off the surf so hastily , but I was out of touch ...
... passed Torquay like a travelling show hellbent on making an impression in the big smoke . If I had paid more attention to the weather map and the wind direction I might not have written off the surf so hastily , but I was out of touch ...
Page 26
... passing you by , the next moment the wave was coming right at you , hollow and fast . " To be honest , I don't think you could handle it . ' What else could I have expected ? The week before I had found the Torquay shorebreak on a ...
... passing you by , the next moment the wave was coming right at you , hollow and fast . " To be honest , I don't think you could handle it . ' What else could I have expected ? The week before I had found the Torquay shorebreak on a ...
Page 29
... passed along the way , watching for signs of change . If I saw surfboards on cars heading back to the city , I fretted about why they were leaving the surf behind . There was also the guilt that came from leaving my twenty - month - old ...
... passed along the way , watching for signs of change . If I saw surfboards on cars heading back to the city , I fretted about why they were leaving the surf behind . There was also the guilt that came from leaving my twenty - month - old ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |