That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 8
... looked twice at the sight of a black - clad figure sliding down the face of a wave , surfers were , in many respects , a race apart . Australia liked to promote itself as a surfing paradise , but surfers were a sub - culture still ...
... looked twice at the sight of a black - clad figure sliding down the face of a wave , surfers were , in many respects , a race apart . Australia liked to promote itself as a surfing paradise , but surfers were a sub - culture still ...
Page 26
... looked as if it was passing you by , the next moment the wave was coming right at you , hollow and fast . " To be honest , I don't think you could handle it . ' What else could I have expected ? The week before I had found the Torquay ...
... looked as if it was passing you by , the next moment the wave was coming right at you , hollow and fast . " To be honest , I don't think you could handle it . ' What else could I have expected ? The week before I had found the Torquay ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |