That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 4
... later still , after I had witnessed the lone surfer riding the tanker's wake , that I dared admit to myself that I too wanted to surf the Rip . I knew it was a crazy idea . I hadn't surfed for fifteen years . Occasionally , when the ...
... later still , after I had witnessed the lone surfer riding the tanker's wake , that I dared admit to myself that I too wanted to surf the Rip . I knew it was a crazy idea . I hadn't surfed for fifteen years . Occasionally , when the ...
Page 6
... later , I was in the car heading down to Sorrento to see if I could still squeeze into my old surfing skin , the wetsuit I had not worn for fifteen years . It hung on a hook in the corrugated- iron sleep - out behind our beach house ...
... later , I was in the car heading down to Sorrento to see if I could still squeeze into my old surfing skin , the wetsuit I had not worn for fifteen years . It hung on a hook in the corrugated- iron sleep - out behind our beach house ...
Page 9
... later , kept me out of the water . Fear of failure , fear of being an impostor , fear of being out of control . ( While the possibility of sharks always hovered at the back of my mind , it was a minor fear when surfing in Bass Strait ...
... later , kept me out of the water . Fear of failure , fear of being an impostor , fear of being out of control . ( While the possibility of sharks always hovered at the back of my mind , it was a minor fear when surfing in Bass Strait ...
Page 10
... later the Romantic poets , called this phenomenon ' the sublime ' . In Wordsworth's description of his younger self bounding over the mountains and the lonely streams of the Wye River valley ' more like a man / Flying from something ...
... later the Romantic poets , called this phenomenon ' the sublime ' . In Wordsworth's description of his younger self bounding over the mountains and the lonely streams of the Wye River valley ' more like a man / Flying from something ...
Page 20
... later , the hard way had lost much of its appeal . Apart from wanting company and advice , somewhere in the back of my mind was the memory of my swimming instructor with his long shepherd's staff ready to haul me clear of the water when ...
... later , the hard way had lost much of its appeal . Apart from wanting company and advice , somewhere in the back of my mind was the memory of my swimming instructor with his long shepherd's staff ready to haul me clear of the water when ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |