That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Fiona Capp. CONTENTS Foreword x i Prologue I CHAPTER I The Idea of Surfing 15 CHAPTER 2 That Larger Playground 57 CHAPTER 3 Skimming the Abyss 91 CHAPTER 4 Big Wave Hunting 125 CHAPTER 5 The Pacific Solution 151 CHAPTER 6 Paradise Paved ...
Fiona Capp. CONTENTS Foreword x i Prologue I CHAPTER I The Idea of Surfing 15 CHAPTER 2 That Larger Playground 57 CHAPTER 3 Skimming the Abyss 91 CHAPTER 4 Big Wave Hunting 125 CHAPTER 5 The Pacific Solution 151 CHAPTER 6 Paradise Paved ...
Page 4
... idea . I hadn't surfed for fifteen years . Occasionally , when the subject of surfing came up in conversation , I would remark that I still had my wetsuit and board and that I intended , at some stage , to return to the water . But as I ...
... idea . I hadn't surfed for fifteen years . Occasionally , when the subject of surfing came up in conversation , I would remark that I still had my wetsuit and board and that I intended , at some stage , to return to the water . But as I ...
Page 12
... idea is echoed in ' Lines Composed a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey ' , in which he speaks of the ' tranquil restoration ' which his memories of the Wye River valley brought him when he was oppressed by the din of towns and cities ...
... idea is echoed in ' Lines Composed a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey ' , in which he speaks of the ' tranquil restoration ' which his memories of the Wye River valley brought him when he was oppressed by the din of towns and cities ...
Page 14
... myself in the mirror . I grinned at my reflection . Fifteen years seemed to fall away . Flinging open the back door , I leapt down the steps and did cartwheels across the lawn . CHAPTER I The Idea of Surfing SPRING N Melbourneo , 14.
... myself in the mirror . I grinned at my reflection . Fifteen years seemed to fall away . Flinging open the back door , I leapt down the steps and did cartwheels across the lawn . CHAPTER I The Idea of Surfing SPRING N Melbourneo , 14.
Page 15
Fiona Capp. CHAPTER I The Idea of Surfing SPRING N Melbourneo , Geelongo Point Lonsdale Torquay Jan Juc Bells The Idea of Surfing.
Fiona Capp. CHAPTER I The Idea of Surfing SPRING N Melbourneo , Geelongo Point Lonsdale Torquay Jan Juc Bells The Idea of Surfing.
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |