That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 3
... eye view of this promontory carpeted in green and surrounded by the deep blue of Bass Strait looking as benign as frozen jelly . I would often study this postcard as if it showed some far - off land . In maps of the time , this end of ...
... eye view of this promontory carpeted in green and surrounded by the deep blue of Bass Strait looking as benign as frozen jelly . I would often study this postcard as if it showed some far - off land . In maps of the time , this end of ...
Page 5
... eyes it was vast . Gold veins of reflected sunlight danced on the ceiling , the air was fuggy with chlorine and voices echoed strangely as if in some undersea chamber . Pools were greener then . And like some ancient shepherd , the ...
... eyes it was vast . Gold veins of reflected sunlight danced on the ceiling , the air was fuggy with chlorine and voices echoed strangely as if in some undersea chamber . Pools were greener then . And like some ancient shepherd , the ...
Page 8
... regarded with suspicion and bemusement by the mainstream . They were beach - bums , drop - outs , ragged- haired louts who spoke their own patois and , in my parents ' eyes , could not be trusted with their youngest daughter 8.
... regarded with suspicion and bemusement by the mainstream . They were beach - bums , drop - outs , ragged- haired louts who spoke their own patois and , in my parents ' eyes , could not be trusted with their youngest daughter 8.
Page 9
Fiona Capp. eyes , could not be trusted with their youngest daughter . I had always loved the sea , and now I had fallen in love with a surfer and , through him , with the thrill of riding a wave . I was also in love with the spirit of ...
Fiona Capp. eyes , could not be trusted with their youngest daughter . I had always loved the sea , and now I had fallen in love with a surfer and , through him , with the thrill of riding a wave . I was also in love with the spirit of ...
Page 21
... eye over the water . It is no longer de rigueur for surfers to have the dishevelled , sun - bleached look , but with his shock of sandy hair almost to his shoulders , freckled tan , laconic manner and playful grin , Gally was ...
... eye over the water . It is no longer de rigueur for surfers to have the dishevelled , sun - bleached look , but with his shock of sandy hair almost to his shoulders , freckled tan , laconic manner and playful grin , Gally was ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |