That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 6
... dreams . I would be standing at the water's edge or perhaps bobbing in the shorebreak when , without warning , a ... dreaming about the sea , with a residue of hope and longing . For many years I found a million good reasons why I couldn ...
... dreams . I would be standing at the water's edge or perhaps bobbing in the shorebreak when , without warning , a ... dreaming about the sea , with a residue of hope and longing . For many years I found a million good reasons why I couldn ...
Page 22
... dream I'd had the week before . I was standing in front of the Doges ' Palace in Venice looking out across the lagoon towards the white dome of Santa Maria della Salute when I noticed some figures on surfboards in the grey , choppy ...
... dream I'd had the week before . I was standing in front of the Doges ' Palace in Venice looking out across the lagoon towards the white dome of Santa Maria della Salute when I noticed some figures on surfboards in the grey , choppy ...
Page 24
... dreams of my youth , here , in the water , I knew that the essence of surfing had not changed . The steps might have become more flashy but the dance on the wave remained the same . With each successive wave , I was able to get to my ...
... dreams of my youth , here , in the water , I knew that the essence of surfing had not changed . The steps might have become more flashy but the dance on the wave remained the same . With each successive wave , I was able to get to my ...
Page 25
... bother any more because it had become too crowded . It was a great left - hander , he admitted , but very tricky . At the time , I didn't dare tell him that it was my dream to surf Corsair . A writer wanting to emulate one 25.
... bother any more because it had become too crowded . It was a great left - hander , he admitted , but very tricky . At the time , I didn't dare tell him that it was my dream to surf Corsair . A writer wanting to emulate one 25.
Page 27
... dreaming of surfing Corsair . The next two months were almost unrelentingly grey and rainy , and everyone I knew seemed to have grown sad , as if the low , dark skies had become a state of mind . We all hunkered down , waiting for the ...
... dreaming of surfing Corsair . The next two months were almost unrelentingly grey and rainy , and everyone I knew seemed to have grown sad , as if the low , dark skies had become a state of mind . We all hunkered down , waiting for the ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |