That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 8
... culture still regarded with suspicion and bemusement by the mainstream . They were beach - bums , drop - outs , ragged- haired louts who spoke their own patois and , in my parents ' eyes , could not be trusted with their youngest daughter ...
... culture still regarded with suspicion and bemusement by the mainstream . They were beach - bums , drop - outs , ragged- haired louts who spoke their own patois and , in my parents ' eyes , could not be trusted with their youngest daughter ...
Page 18
... culture . Those who knew Torquay in the 1950s remember it as a frontier town where a notorious group of wild boys associated with the Surf Lifesaving Club bought cheap land on the out- skirts , whacked up some fibro shacks and called it ...
... culture . Those who knew Torquay in the 1950s remember it as a frontier town where a notorious group of wild boys associated with the Surf Lifesaving Club bought cheap land on the out- skirts , whacked up some fibro shacks and called it ...
Page 24
... culture and lost its anti- establishment edginess , this ' them ' and ' us ' mood had largely evaporated . Ironically , while that shift made surfing easier for me now , I did not want to forsake what it had represented to me as a young ...
... culture and lost its anti- establishment edginess , this ' them ' and ' us ' mood had largely evaporated . Ironically , while that shift made surfing easier for me now , I did not want to forsake what it had represented to me as a young ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |