That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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... CHAPTER 5 The Pacific Solution 151 CHAPTER 6 Paradise Paved 173 CHAPTER 7 Civilised Surf ? 21I CHAPTER 8 Slow Boat to Ithaka Selected Bibliography Acknowledgements 286 Credits 288 257 280 FOREWORD WHEN I STARTED the journey I am about to.
... CHAPTER 5 The Pacific Solution 151 CHAPTER 6 Paradise Paved 173 CHAPTER 7 Civilised Surf ? 21I CHAPTER 8 Slow Boat to Ithaka Selected Bibliography Acknowledgements 286 Credits 288 257 280 FOREWORD WHEN I STARTED the journey I am about to.
Page 1
... of water that broke from Head to Head . Today , a light south - easterly was blowing . Just inside the bay , to the right of the breaking waves , a small motor boat hovered ; - I took it to be a fishing vessel until I I Prologue I.
... of water that broke from Head to Head . Today , a light south - easterly was blowing . Just inside the bay , to the right of the breaking waves , a small motor boat hovered ; - I took it to be a fishing vessel until I I Prologue I.
Page 2
... boat to this break they call Quarantine , Corsair , the Rip or the Point for decades , until twenty years ago it was regarded as a secret spot surfed only by the cognoscenti . On my previous visits , there had not been a surfer in sight ...
... boat to this break they call Quarantine , Corsair , the Rip or the Point for decades , until twenty years ago it was regarded as a secret spot surfed only by the cognoscenti . On my previous visits , there had not been a surfer in sight ...
Page 27
... boat people ' , which had been coined to describe the refugees who came to Australia in boats from Vietnam and Cambodia two decades ago . It reminded us of the dangerous odyssey that the refugees had made , linking them with the ...
... boat people ' , which had been coined to describe the refugees who came to Australia in boats from Vietnam and Cambodia two decades ago . It reminded us of the dangerous odyssey that the refugees had made , linking them with the ...
Page 28
... boat people into criminals and to harden our hearts against them . Like the ploughman in Brueghel's Icarus , one grew used to going about one's life while absorbing news of misery and disaster from near and far . But as I drove down to ...
... boat people into criminals and to harden our hearts against them . Like the ploughman in Brueghel's Icarus , one grew used to going about one's life while absorbing news of misery and disaster from near and far . But as I drove down to ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |