That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 3
... began to spend more time at the ocean beaches of Sorrento and Portsea , beaches which were to become the stage upon which my rites of passage to adulthood would be played out . Sometimes we would go walking in a straggling line along 3.
... began to spend more time at the ocean beaches of Sorrento and Portsea , beaches which were to become the stage upon which my rites of passage to adulthood would be played out . Sometimes we would go walking in a straggling line along 3.
Page 5
... began spending more time at the ocean beaches , I discovered the slap - in - the - face exhilaration of the surf and the call of the blue yonder . The finite world of the swimming pool lost much of its appeal . In my restless ...
... began spending more time at the ocean beaches , I discovered the slap - in - the - face exhilaration of the surf and the call of the blue yonder . The finite world of the swimming pool lost much of its appeal . In my restless ...
Page 8
... began surfing in the early 1980s . Although no one looked twice at the sight of a black - clad figure sliding down the face of a wave , surfers were , in many respects , a race apart . Australia liked to promote itself as a surfing ...
... began surfing in the early 1980s . Although no one looked twice at the sight of a black - clad figure sliding down the face of a wave , surfers were , in many respects , a race apart . Australia liked to promote itself as a surfing ...
Page 12
... began to paddle for the wave , I knew I had been waiting for it all my surfing life . I remember the water swelling beneath me and how I was perfectly in tune with its rhythm . I remember a surge of energy lifting me high above the ...
... began to paddle for the wave , I knew I had been waiting for it all my surfing life . I remember the water swelling beneath me and how I was perfectly in tune with its rhythm . I remember a surge of energy lifting me high above the ...
Page 17
... began lashing the car . If it hadn't been for an appointment I had to keep in Torquay , I would have turned around and driven straight home , mildly disappointed but secretly relieved that my return to the water had been delayed . Much ...
... began lashing the car . If it hadn't been for an appointment I had to keep in Torquay , I would have turned around and driven straight home , mildly disappointed but secretly relieved that my return to the water had been delayed . Much ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |