That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 pages A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 2
... Corsair , the Rip or the Point for decades , until twenty years ago it was regarded as a secret spot surfed only by the cognoscenti . On my previous visits , there had not been a surfer in sight . Now , absorbed by the figure of the ...
... Corsair , the Rip or the Point for decades , until twenty years ago it was regarded as a secret spot surfed only by the cognoscenti . On my previous visits , there had not been a surfer in sight . Now , absorbed by the figure of the ...
Page 25
... Corsair . I told him that I had written a novel about a young man who surfed there at night . ' Hah ! ' he laughed , brushing the sand from his feet . " That would be the end of him . ' Gally had surfed the Rip a few times but didn't ...
... Corsair . I told him that I had written a novel about a young man who surfed there at night . ' Hah ! ' he laughed , brushing the sand from his feet . " That would be the end of him . ' Gally had surfed the Rip a few times but didn't ...
Page 26
... Corsair . Whatever his feelings , he disguised them well enough . ' It would give you a fright , ' he said , after a pause . He described how the powerful Bass Strait swell came driving through the narrow Heads and wrapped around Point ...
... Corsair . Whatever his feelings , he disguised them well enough . ' It would give you a fright , ' he said , after a pause . He described how the powerful Bass Strait swell came driving through the narrow Heads and wrapped around Point ...
Page 27
... Corsair . The next two months were almost unrelentingly grey and rainy , and everyone I knew seemed to have grown sad , as if the low , dark skies had become a state of mind . We all hunkered down , waiting for the miserable weather to ...
... Corsair . The next two months were almost unrelentingly grey and rainy , and everyone I knew seemed to have grown sad , as if the low , dark skies had become a state of mind . We all hunkered down , waiting for the miserable weather to ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |