them less liable to disagree with the stomach; and the custom of eating apple-sauce with pork, or goose, is attributable for its origin to the same cause.

3. Aromatic Condiments comprise the foreign spices, as pepper, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger; and the indigenous herbs and roots, such as parsley, thyme, sage, garlic, leek, onion, horse-radish, mustard, &c. The former were not intended by nature for the natives of temperate climes, since they are heating, and highly stimulating. The dyspeptic invalid should be cautious in their use, because permanent mischief may result from temporary benefit. But mischievous as the abuse of aromatic condiments may be, it is insignificant in comparison with the custom of swallowing a quantity of brandy to obviate the upbraidings of a disordered stomach, or an increased libation of wine to counteract the distress which supervenes on a too copious meal:-as if drunkenness were an antidote for gluttony!

4. Oil. This, with butter, constitutes what is called the oleaginous condiments. Melted butter is, perhaps, the most injurious of all the inventions of cookery. Oil, when used in extremely small quantities, as a seasoning to salads, seems to prevent their running into fermentation, and, consequently, obviates flatulency.

Of Drinks. Liquid matter is as essentially necessary to the human frame as solid aliment; and the necessity of this supply, as well as its quantity, is indicated by a certain feeling denominated thirst. How much of diluents each person may require will depend upon individual peculiarity, climate, nature of the solid aliment, and likewise the customs of artificial life, which are too often at variance with common sense. Although fluids of the usual temperature are grateful and congenial to a healthy stomach, yet dyspeptic patients frequently need them to be raised to the temperature of the body; for the stomach, not having sufficient vital energy to establish re-action, falls into a state of collapse. But fluids, heated much above the temperature of the body, are equally injurious. Iced ones should not be taken, under any circumstances, by those whose stomachs are delicate, and especially after a meal, the digestion of which is thus retarded, or wholly prevented. Different aliments will require different quantities of liquid to assist their chymification. Animal food demands more drink than vegetable; roasted than boiled meat; and baked still more than roasted. Which is the most suitable period for taking liquids? By drinking before a meal, we place the stomach in a very unfit condition to perform its duties:-by drinking during a

meal, we shall assist digestion, if the solid matter be of a nature that requires it; and we shall impede it, if the quantity taken render the mass too liquid. The best general rule, regardless of all preconceived theory, is that which is created by the sensations of the individual. Experience teaches, as Dr. W. Philip has stated, that "eating too fast causes thirst; for, the food being swallowed without a due admixture of saliva, the mass formed in the stomach is too dry." As hunger and thirst are, to a certain extent, incompatible sensations, it is probable that Nature intended the appetite for food to be first satisfied; and if the food possess that degree of succulence which characterizes digestible aliments, there will be no necessity for liquids. But, at all events, the quantity should be small. It is during the intervals of solid meals that the necessary drink ought to be taken; and both theory and experience demonstrate the advantage which attends a liquid repast about four or five hours after the solid repast. About this period the chyle has entered its proper vessels, and is flowing into the blood to undergo its final changes. Then it is that the stomach, having disposed of its charge, receives the wholesome draught with the greatest advantage; then it is that the blood, impregnated with new materials, requires the assistance of a diluent to complete their sanguification, and to carry off the superfluous matter; and it is then that the kidneys and the skin will need the aid of additional water to assist the performance of their functions. The common beverage of tea, or something analogous, doubtless originally suggested by an instinctive desire for liquids at this period, is thus sanctioned by theory, and its benefits established by experience.*

"Water is unquestionably the natural beverage of man; but any objection against the use of other beverages, founded on their artificial origin, I should at once repel by the same argument which has been adduced in defence of cookery. We are to consider man as he is, not as he might have been, had he never forsaken the rude path of Nature. I am willing to confess, that the more simply life is supported, and

We believe that much of the thirst which is made the excuse for drink, both at and after dinner, arises either from a bad habit, established by long usage, or from eating too much in quantity, or food of an improper quality. We know several instances of dyspeptics who never could dine without drink both at and after eating; but who, on being put on a proper plan of diet, both as to kind and amount, required no drink at all, or not more than a cup of coffee when the repast was finished. We repeat it, then, that thirst, or the necessity for more than a very little drink with our principal meal, is, in general, a symptom that there is "something rottea in the constitution of Denmark.”—Editors.

the less stimulus we use, the better; and that he is happy who considers water the best drink, and salt the best sauce :' But how rarely does a physician find a patient who has regulated his life by such a maxim! He is generally called upon to reform stomachs, already vitiated by bad habits, and which cannot, without much discipline, be reconciled to simple and healthy aliment. Under such circumstances, nothing can be more injudicious than abruptly to withdraw the accustomed stimuli, unless it can be shewn that they are absolutely injurious; a question which it will be my duty to investigate hereafter.

"The qualities of water differ essentially, according to the source from which it has been obtained; and those accustomed to this beverage are sensible to differences which wholly escape the observation of less experienced judges. How far the existence of foreign matter injures its salubrity, has been a subject of much controversy: the truth, perhaps, lies between the extremes; those who insist upon the necessity of distillation for its purification, and those who consider every description of water as alike salubrious, are, in my opinion, equally remote from truth. That the presence of minute quantities of earthy matter can become a source of disease, appears absurd; while it would be highly dangerous to deny the morbid tendency of water that holds putrescent animal or vegetable matter in solution, or which abounds in mineral impregnation.

"The usual varieties of common water were classed and defined by Celsus, and modern chemists have not found any reason to reject the arrangement Aqua levissima pluvialis est; dein fontana, tum ex flumine, tum ex puteo; posthac ex nive aut glacie, gravoir his ex lacu; gravissima ex palude.'”—120.

Now the author enters into a consideration of the different kinds of water, but this we shall overlook for the sake of more interesting matter.

The juices and infusions of vegetable and animal substances constitute the second division of drinks.

1. Toast Water. By impregnating water with the soluble parts of toasted bread, it will frequently agree better with stomachs which are averse from the pure fluid, and it becomes slightly nutritive from retaining a certain portion of gum and starch. The water ought to be boiling, and drunk when sufficiently cool; since, by keeping, it acquires an unpleasant flavour.

2. Barley Water. This is an ancient, and much recommended drink. Barley affords less viscid potations than other grains. The invention of pearl barley, prepared by the removal of the husk, and afterwards rounded and polished in a mill, has greatly improved this grain. The granules consist chiefly of fecula, with portions of mucilage, gluten, and sugar, which water extracts by decoction; but the solution scon passes into

the acetous fermentation. Lemon juice and sugar are grateful

additions.

8. Gruel. Oats, without their cuticle, are called groats. In which state, or when ground into meal, they yield to water, by coction, the fecula they contain, and form a nutritious gruel, which is slightly aperient. Gruel becomes acescent after forty-eight hours, and it may be made of different degrees of consistence, according to the object in view. If as a demulcent drink, it should be thin; and Dr. Kitchener informs us it may be made by mixing well together, by degrees and in a pint basin, one table-spoonful of oatmeal with three of cold water, and then adding carefully a pint of boiling water: the whole is to be boiled for five minutes, stirring it constantly; and, finally, the liquor is to be strained through a hair-sieve. If something more substantial be demanded, the quantity of oatmeal may be doubled; or broth or milk may be substituted for water. Some mix butter with gruel, which is objectionable, where acidity of the stomach either prevails, or is suspected.

4. Sage Tea.* The virtues of sage have been extolled, and depreciated; but, in the form of infusion, it certainly does possess some power in allaying the irritability of the stomach; and it is frequently exhibited by the Chinese as a tonic for debility of this organ. Sage, as well as balm tea, will furnish a salutary beverage on many occasions.

5. Tea. Two kinds of tea are imported into England, black and green. Each contains astringent and narcotic principles, but in very different proportions; the latter producing by far the most powerful influence upon the nervous system. Every narcotic being stimulating, tea exhilarates and refreshes; yet some, from certain peculiarities, experience, even from a single cup, nervous sensations, unnatural vigilance, and stomachic disorder, with feelings of depression. That the use of tea is generally beneficial is placed beyond doubt; but it ought to be taken about four hours after the principal meal, when, it will assist the ulterior stages of digestion, promote the insensible perspiration, and impart to the stomach a grateful stimulus. The addition of milk certainly diminishes the astringency of tea; while sugar may gratify the palate, but cannot modify the virtues of this infusion.

6. Coffee. Coffee, like tea, has had its enemies, and, probably, with equal injustice. It is more stimulant, and certainly exerts a different action in the nervous system, although the

* For the sake of convenience we use the author's phraseology in this instance.-Rev.

nature of this difference is not very obvious. After a meal, coffee does not create that disturbance in its digestion which occasionally arises after the drinking of tea; for it accelerates the operations of the stomach, and will frequently enable the dyspeptic to digest substances, such as fat and oily aliments, which would otherwise be the cause of much disorder. Coffee, taken immediately after dinner, as practised by the French, doubtless counteracts the probable evil effects of their diet. This infusion, as well as tea, has certainly an antisoporific effect on many individuals; and imparts an activity to the mind which is incompatible with sleep. It is generally admitted to possess the power of obviating the effects of narcotics; and hence it is so used by the Turks. Where coffee is intended to promote digestion, it should be carefully made by infusion, because decoction dissipates its aroma. Milk may well be omitted, while sugar, or rather sugar-candy, is allowable. There are some persons in whom coffee induces acidity in the stomach.

7. Chocolate. This liquid contains a large quantity of nutritive matter, and should be regarded as food rather than drink. It is prepared by reducing the cocoa nut into paste, with sugar, milk, or eggs: it is also frequently mixed with different aromatics, the most common of which is the vanilla, a substance very liable to disagree with the stomach, and to produce a train of nervous symptoms. As a common beverage, chocolate is highly objectionable; it contains an oil which is difficult of assimilation; it likewise oppresses the stomach; and this effect is increased by too much heat in the preparation.

8. Cocoa is usually considered as a substitute for chocolate, and, containing less nutritious matter, it is not so objectionable; for the oily matter exists only in small quantities, and, consequently, is not so likely to disagree with the stomach.

9. Whey is a delightful beverage; but its nature and operation cannot be well understood prior to the investigation of the composition of milk.

There are certain saline solutions which are frequently employed as drinks, and deserve some attention; such are imperial and soda water.

1. Imperial. This is a solution of cream of tartar, flavoured with lemon peel. It ought never to be used, except as a medicine; for, if taken as an ordinary drink, it is apt to retard digestion. As an article of diet, it is only admissible under circumstances of robust health, and where a large quantity of animal food has been eaten.