SKETCH OF PERSONAL ADVENTURES DURING A TRIP OVERLAND FROM SYDNEY TO PORT PHILLIP.

It was in the early part of the year that business of importance called me to Port Phillip, and having no desire to try my patience by a trip down in one of the trading vessels, I determined to take advantage of a party of friends, who were proceeding as far as the Murrumbidgee river, (about two hundred and forty miles on the route to the Port,) and make an overland journey. Early in April we started, five in number, well mounted and better armed. Leaving Sydney rather late in the day, we slept at Campbelltown that night, a little better than thirty miles from our starting-place. By daylight the next morning we were astir, and I may say astride. The Razorback mountain was to be crossed, and Berrima reached that night, if possible. Light was necessary; the track, for road there was none, was bad; the mountain was infested by bands of bush-rangers, and the hanging rock in the neighbourhood of Berrima was a celebrated place of resort for them.

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Razor-back mountain we reached soon, by hard riding, and we commenced toiling up its precipitous ascent. It is not of very great height, but exceedingly steep, so much so, that the mind seems to doubt the possibility of loaded waggons crossing it. But with a double team of oxen, the bullock-driver, accustomed to the route, thinks little of ascending, descending being still more easy. large tree is felled, made fast by means of chains to the dray, and with the assistance of the oxen, the load moves down with comparative ease, constantly withheld by the weight behind. The view from the summit of the mountain is grand in the extreme; beneath, valleys of immense depth seem ready to engulf you; beyond, rise precipitous mountains covered to their summits with waving forests; and in the distance the Blue Mountains form a back-ground seemingly ascending to the vault of heaven itself. After gazing for a short time on the scenery around, we pushed on at speed, breakfasting and dining at bush-inns, on salt pork, mutton, and damper, together with tea-that never failing resource in Australia-and arrived, a short time after dusk, at Berrima, a small county town, possessing a large gaol, and one or two fair places of refreshment.

The country between Razor-back and Berrima is hilly and barren ; here and there, however, a few homesteads were to be seen, with a little vegetation surrounding them. The entire country at this period looked bad, as it was suffering under the effects of years of continued drought. A little before daylight, on the 12th of April, we left Berrima, and arrived at Goulbourn that evening, after traversing a country of extreme sameness in appearance, much parched up. The vast plains of Goulbourn particularly attracted our attention, seeming like a boundless sea as far as the eye could reach, without tree, shrub, or any living thing upon its surface. Such is not the case, however, as, in favourable seasons, the plains are covered with flocks and herds.

Goulbourn, a small assemblage of plain wooden houses, interspersed with an odd brick one, we found a scene of indescribable confusion.

A powerful party of mounted and armed bush-rangers (escaped convicts) were in the vicinity, led by the notorious Kangaroo Jack, a bold and daring felon, who had been several years at large, and had defied the utmost efforts of the authorities to hunt him down; notwithstanding large rewards had been offered for his apprehension. The inn at which we stopped, M'Kellor's, was crowded with ladies who had taken refuge there with their families, but still they did not think themselves safe, as Jack had threatened to pay a visit to Mr. Sullivan who was agent to some Sydney bank. A small detachment of military, who were in charge of a convict party, occupied the town, together with a strong force of mounted police, who are all picked men from different foot regiments, armed and disciplined as light dragoons. Our quarters were not of the best that night, although we had to pay dearly enough, a very bad shake down was all we obtained. Daylight broke the following morning on dismayed faces. Rumours of war to the knife were rife. M'Leod, one of my companions, laughed at most of the tales we heard, assuring us that great part was exaggeration; but the landlord, whom he knew, insisted that many and daring murders had been just committed by the desperate band then in the neighbourhood. Acting by his advice, we determined to start at once, and overtake the Yass mail, a four-horse, low, open vehicle, which had started but a short time previous, under the protection of two mounted police; all that could be spared at Goulbourn.

Finishing a hearty meal, and looking well to our arms, we were soon dashing along as fast as the powerful horses that carried us could move, and came up with our object after a hard ride of seven or eight miles. As soon as we were descried, the mail pulled up. Three passengers whom it contained looked most wickedly to their well appointed arms, and the mounted police drew up on either side. M'Leod, however, rode forward singly,and soon undeceived them as to our identity. Our company was exceedingly acceptable, and we continued to move forward at a rapid rate, till within some eight miles of Gunning, a small village on the track to Yass. Passing a bush-inn at the above named distance from Gunning, M'Leod recommended us to try some refreshment in the way of brandy, which he assured us we could obtain better there than at any place on the road. Complying with the invitation, Mr. C and myself adjourned, together with M'Leod, within the precincts of a most miserable log hut, and there found the recommendation given was in part correct. After a delay of a few moments, we were again on the road, at an Australian settler's pace, namely, a hard gallop; but had not proceeded far when our attention was attracted by the galloping of horse, a short distance on our right. Owing to the closeness of the bush skirting the track, we were unable to discover our neighbours, but were soon undeceived as to their intentions, by the crack of a rifle and a loud ringing "coohy," a description of shout, which is heard a great distance in an uninhabited country. Dashing the spurs into our horses, we went along at a tremendous pace in pursuit of our fellow-travellers; but as we were ascending the breast of an elevation, our ears were saluted by the report, in front, of fire-arms, and on reaching the crest of the hill, an unexpected sight opened upon us.

Beneath, in a small valley, at the distance of a few hundred yards, lay the mail overturned, the two leaders shot, our late companions

standing or lying wounded around, and the two mounted policemen dead or dying under their wounded horses. For an instant, our wish to afford assistance overcame every other thought; but we were soon recalled to a sense of our personal danger, by seeing several of the fourteen or fifteen men that surrounded the vehicle, spring upon their horses. Behind us, advancing at the top of their speed, were four mounted and armed men. Unslinging our rifles, we paused for a second- a sheet of flame issued from our pieces, and the two foremost of the bush-rangers in front, men and horses, rolled upon the ground. At this moment of danger C- proved himself what he was, a brave and determined Scotchman. Calling on us to follow, he turned from the road, and faced across an open forest country which extended on our right, but, almost the instant we turned, the crack of several pieces was heard; M'Leod's left arm, with which he was guiding his horse, fell broken to his side, and a ball wounded my horse slightly in the neck. Seizing the reins with the other hand, M'Leod followed C- across a large dead tree that lay directly in the path. Well for us was it, that our horses were accustomed to the bush. Fast and powerful on they swept, followed for at least four miles, by the best mounted of the band; but ours was a race for life and death, and nobly did our horses do their duty, for at the above-named distance the greater number of the bush-rangers were entirely thrown out, and the remainder

chase up in despair.

gave the Changing our course a little to the left, we made for Gunning, and reached it in a short time. Only four mounted policemen were at the barracks, the remainder were out in pursuit of the band we lately encountered, and not a sufficient number of men could therefore be mustered, to proceed to the assistance of our friends. Our fears for their safety were however set at rest late in the evening, by seeing them enter Grosvenor's inn, (where we had put up,) in a most miserable plight, one of them wounded in the thigh, the other with the track of a bullet indelibly impressed on his neck. The passengers by the mail had escaped with a broken leg falling to the lot of one of them. The mounted policemen were no more, having had their brains actually beaten out, after having been wounded and taken prisoners; and the mail-bags were nowhere to be found. Early the following morning, eight mounted policemen, who had been sent for by express, arrived from Yass, accompanied by a number of well-armed mounted settlers, for the purpose of proceeding in search of Kangaroo Jack and his associates. Not thinking our presence necessary, and well knowing the probability of an unsuccessful termination to the pursuit, owing to the knowledge the bush-rangers possessed of the country, C-, M—, and myself determined to proceed on our journey; leaving M'Leod and our other companions to enjoy the comforts of Grosvenor's inn, and recover from the effects of their wounds.

In pursuance of our resolution, we started about mid-day and arrived at Yass on the evening of the 14th. This small border-town or rather village, is nearly two hundred miles from Sydney, and the last post-town or even collection of houses on the track to Port Phillip, which is at a further distance of four hundred and fifty miles. It is pleasantly situated on a gentle declivity, bordering the vast plains of

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Yass; and contains a few houses, the principal part of which are inns. An Israelite landlord of the name of Moses served our turn, and supplied our wants, not forgetting to charge us the reasonable sum of fifteen shillings each, for our horses' accommodation for the night.

On we pushed the following morning, at an early hour for the Murrumbidgee river, determined to reach it that night if possible. After dining at Bogolong on usual bush fare, we began to perceive evidence of our approach to the Murrumbidgee towards evening, in the numerous patches of verdure that became apparent. Some time before dusk we saw the river, flowing placidly along, through an alluvial valley, bordered with tall white gums of noble dimensions; the water in its bed was, however, particularly low, owing to years of continued drought. Darkness came on before we could reach our destination, and notwithstanding C-'s knowledge of the track we lost our way, wandered from the beaten road, and did not pick ourselves up till we found ourselves on the banks of the river. C- seemed to have some knowledge of the locality, and informed us, that we were in the vicinity of a small station, the property of a man well known in the neighbourhood, under the cognomen of Sugar O'Brien. Immediate resort was had by M- to the bushman's means of discovering if he is within hearing of any fellow creature; placing his hands to his mouth, the next moment he made the arches of the forest ring with his shrill" coohy," startling the feathered denizens from repose, and making the hills on the off side of the river re-echo back the sound; again and again the experiment was tried, till a cry loud and clear was wafted to our ears, with the breath of the cool night breeze; answering cries reverberated through the forest till in about the space of ten minutes we stood upon the threshold of O'Brien's habitation. Guided by his directions, we took a fresh departure, and after leading our horses for about four miles, we at length reached Green's inn, on the banks of the Murrumbidgee, close to the general crossing place. By the word inn, my readers must not imagine I mean what in England that word is understood to convey; I apply the word in its Australian acceptation, meaning thereby, as the case may be, a log, slab, bark, or weatherboard edifice, covered with bark, and through the sides and roof of which the winds of heaven have free ingress and egress; the floor as nature made it, the windows unglazed, with a gunny-bag or sugar-mat for a shutter, and the door most probably a sheet of box-bark.

After a supper of salt-pork, mutton, and sea-biscuit (as we preferred the latter to the bad flour of which the damper was made), we diligently applied ourselves to Green's bad sherry, at twelve and sixpence per bottle, notwithstanding our day's ride of nearly seventy miles, it being our last night in company, my friends' route and mine separating at that point. Morning dawn found us dwelling on scenes of the past, and recounting plans for the future, as, in consequence of the vast quantity of sand-fleas that inhabited the bed-places, composed of a hay-pack laid upon a sheet of bark, supported by four forkeds ticks, with transverse pieces laid across, we found it impossible to obtain any rest. A plunge in the half-dry current of the river renovated our system, and after partaking of some greasy fritters, mutton-chops, and tea, we separated on our several routes.

Previously to departing from Green's, I had taken C-'s advice as to

my course, having promised to call at a station of M'Leod's on the Hume, to give some necessary directions, which he wished at once carried into effect. I had more readily undertaken the task, as I was assured it would rather shorten my journey, the general track bending too much to the westward. C gave me a minute description of the country, mentioning the run of the hills, and falls of land. Having never travelled, however, for days together in the bush of New Holland alone, far from any human habitation, I was not without anxiety, with regard to my first essay. The natives were in force between the Murrumbidgee and the Upper Hume, and most hostile at the latter place to the whites. I had fully one hundred and fifty miles to travel before I could meet with any station, which in those parts of the country exist only on the principal rivers, owing to want of water. I had with me two small compasses, which I had bought in Sydney; and I had provided myself at Green's with four days' provisions. My arms consisted of a pair of double-barrelled nine-inch pistols, with spring bayonets, and a capital rifle. My horse was an exceedingly powerful and hardy animal, such as can almost only be found in Australia. After travelling a few miles along the track, I turned more to the eastward and struck into the pathless forests that cover that part of the country, my black tin quart pot sounding an accompaniment to the jig-jog pace of my horse. A few hours passed away, the sun had risen high in the heavens, and poured its vivid rays upon me; the misty haze, the common attendant of great heat, pervaded the atmosphere; the song of the wild birds of the forest was hushed. Choosing a well-shaded spot, I dismounted, unsaddled my horse, tethered him, and soon had a fire kindled, with my tin pot of water on it, in preparation for a draught of that really refreshing beverage, tea, which I have found often renovate me completely, after a day of the severest fatigue. Two hours of rest sufficed, man and horse were refreshed, and again by the aid of my compass, I was wending my way over arid hills and parched valleys, shadowed by the tall and distended branches of the blue and forest gums, relieved from a sombre appearance by the distant view of the tall white trunks of the boxtree. The tit-tat of the Australian wood-pecker sounded clear and distinct, amidst the stillness of the forest, making you believe at times that you heard the measured stroke of the woodman's axe.

Solitude complete, entire, reigned around; far from the haunts of civilized man, I was traversing a country gradually becoming wilder and more sterile; the white cockatoo hovered above, piercing the air with his shrill and discordant cry, the bright green plumage of whole swarms of parrots glittered in the rays of the sun, and the disturbed kangaroo rat, bounded from his covert as I passed along. Still my untired horse plodded his way, till twilight warned me to seek for some place of repose for myself, and refreshment for my horse. I searched long in vain, sterile hills surrounded me, a trace of verdure was almost unseen, white calcareous stone covered the surface of the earth. At length I was cheered by the sight of a thick cluster of mimosas, the tender shoots and green leaves of which form in the desert hills of Australia, at times, a most acceptable substitute for grass. My horse was soon unsaddled and tethered in a place where there was no fear of his becoming entangled, and ascending some of the surrounding mimosas, I soon provided for him that which would assist in renova