Memoranda of a Journey on the Continent IN 1824 AND 1825. SECTION I. FROM BRIGHTON ΤΟ MILAN. Containing a few Notes written in France and on the road to Genevasome hasty Sketches taken in a rapid tour through Switzerland, along the passage of the Simplon, on the Lago Maggiore, and the Lago di Como. 1824. 7th mo., 14th. Went down to Brighton. 15th. Embarked in the "Union" steam packet at twelve o'clock, and were safely landed at about two o'clock next morning. The passage tedious, the boat ill-appointed, and the steam engine defective: it stopped three times during the voyage. Myself very sick: lost my hat. Were well received at hotel de l'Europe, Gossil Roland. Journey to Paris by Rouen, Mantes, St. Germain. From the 17th to the 25th. Occupied in Paris; saw the palace of the Luxembourgh, the Père la Chaise, the Tuileries, the churches of Notre Dame, St. Sulpice, and St. Roche. 22nd. Went to St. Cloud, Sevres, and Versailles, where we saw the great palace and chapel, the great and little Trianon, the gardens, orangery, etc., and dined there previous to our return to Paris. 23rd. Wrote at home. 24th. Saw the Jardin des Plantes, the museum of natural history, the school of comparative anatomy, the manufacture of the Gobelines. First-Day, 25th. Spent the morning at home, and in the evening drove down to Fontainbleau; lodged at the hotel de la Ville de Lyon. 26th. In the morning saw the chateau and gardens; in the afternoon to Villeneuve le Roi, where we slept at Pont sur Yonne: encountered a very heavy fall of rain. Dined at Sens. 27th. Travelled through a fine open country to Vermantou to breakfast, and to Avallon, a clean respectable town, to lodge; found good quarters at the hotel de la Ville de Lyon. 28th. Left Avallon at seven o'clock, and after an agreeable ride dined at Pont le Pany, a small village at the foot of a lofty range of mountains; where we descended, enjoying all the way splendid prospects. A short and sweet ride to Dijon, where we found good quarters at l'hotel de la Cloche: arrived in time to take a survey of the principal parts of this pleasant and very respectable town. 29th. Left Dijon at six o'clock, and arrived to a déjeuner à la fourchette at Auxonne; soon after this saw very clearly the summit of Mont Blanc over the mountain of the Jura, upwards of one hundred miles distant; recognized its well-known face, glittering in the beams of a meridian sun. Arrived in the afternoon at Poligny, a small town at the foot of the Jura, and soon after began the ascent of its sublime mountain passes, judiciously cut out in the solid rock, and commanding magnificent and extensive views over the vast plain of France. Did not arrive at Champagnole till eleven o'clock, after a fatiguing day of about seventeen hours. 30th. Rode all day over the Jura, a ride combining all the grandeurs of mountain scenery, highly romantic, amidst forests of pines, which clothe the steep side of the abrupt rocks, and are seen at last towering over all. Were too late to enjoy the sublime view of the Lake of Geneva and the ranges of the Alps, but were in some measure compensated by a thunder-storm, which was magnificently terrible. Lodged at the hotel de la Porte, Gex. 31st. A fine ride into Geneva; hotel de la Ballance. Took breakfast before starting, with our windows open to Mont Blanc. First-Day, 8th mo., 1st. Spent our morning en famille, in great quiet; read the Scripture and the Yearly Meeting Epistle; dined at the table d' hote; afterwards a pleasant drive to Secherau, to Sachonay, and to the junction of the Rhone and the Arve: Mont Blanc again visible. J. H. and myself called late on the Rev. C. Malan. 2nd. Called on Professors Peetit, Vaucher, and Gautier, but found them all out. Saw the museum: its coins and medals curious, its natural history neat, but small; did not see the library. In the evening drove to Ferney, the seat of Voltaire. Two rooms as left by him (see Matthews); grounds improved since his time: his cap and book of seals very curious. 3rd. William poorly in the night, by eleven o'clock better. proceeded in a calèche to Bonneville to dinner: a charming ride. In the evening a most romantic journey to Sallinche, through a wonderful mountain pass and defiles of rocks: storm of distant thunder and lightning. Found the inn at Sallinche, which is inferior to that of St. Martin, full, by reason of a cattle fair: dirty and ill appointed. Lodged there: Mont Blanc clouded. The King of Sardinia expected to make his tour through Savoy. 4th. Arrived at Chamouni, after a little bait at Servoz, where we found a civil and decent inn by about four o'clock. A magnificent ride, rather cloudy, but no rain; one char-à-banc and one horse, which we rode by turns: a pleasant excursion. Found excellent quarters at the Union, as before. VALLEY OF CHAMOUNI. 5th. Rose after a comfortable night, and mounting our mules, accompanied by two guides, proceeded to Montanvert a splendid excursion. Rode all the way up, instead of walking nearly one half, as before. Was much delighted in turning back, to see my companions ascending in regular order after me, by the rude stony mountain pass: the wonderful security of travelling by mules, even in the very worst and steepest ascents. Descended to the Sea of Ice, and walked a good way over its rugged surface. The surprising Needles of Mont Blanc visible here, but not the mountain itself. The Aiguille de Droux, De Charmrau, du Géant, du Grand et Petit Jorape,-all surprisingly magnificent. Refreshed at the hospice, and returned safely to La Priorie two hours before dinner, which is here at five: grand religious procession before we rose, of priests, religious confraternities, and people, to put up prayers for the safety of the valley. If our hearts were rightly directed, we should feel daily aspirations of gratitude and praise to Him who preserves us |