times, but art and science come late. But in one respect it is to be feared we have degenerated-what Tacitus so beautifully expresses, after telling a story of a man who, in the civil war in Vespasian's time, had killed his own brother, and received a reward for it; and then relates that the same thing happened before in the civil war of Sylla and Marius, and the man when he found it out killed himself from remorse; and then he adds, tanto major apud antiquos ut virtutibus gloria, ita flagitiis pænitentia erat.' The deep remorse for crime is less in advanced civilization. There is more of sympathy with suffering of all kinds, but less abhorrence of what is admitted to be crime."

June, 1840.

On board the Sardinian steamer, the Janus, in Marseilles Harbour, July 2nd, and this moment in movement, by my watch, at 1.50. The day is delicious,-not a cloud in the sky, the sea bluer than blue, the gentlest air fanning us, and the steamer not crowded. There is no lady on board besides M—, and but few gentlemen. The mountain barrier of this coast is always fine, and in many places the hills come down steep, and bare, and dry, to the sea;— but often, as now, there is an interval of plain between them and the water, covered with olives and scattered houses, a gorgeous belt round the waist of the rough Torso-like mountains. It is quite a new scene in my life to witness the almost more than earthly beauty of this navigation. Now we are passing just between the islands Javos and Risa and the land: the sea a perfect lake: the islands of fantastic rocky forms, and the main land of the same character. We have now passed Cassis, and are just come to Cap l'Aigle :-in a short time we shall open upon La Ciotat,-a small town between Marseilles and Toulon. We are, as usual, close under the cliffs, events or persons: so, too, his characteristic dislike of Milton's representation of Satan. "By giving a human likeness, and representing him as a bad man, you necessarily get some images of what is good as well as of what is bad; for no living man is entirely evil. Even banditti have some generous qualities; whereas the representation of the Devil should be purely and entirely evil without a tinge of good, as that of God should be purely and entirely good without a tinge of evil; and you can no more get the one than the other from any thing human. With the heathen it was different; their gods were themselves made up of good and of evil, and so might well be mixed up with human associations. The hoofs, and the horns, and the tail, were all useful in this way, as giving you an image of something altogether disgusting. And so Mephistophiles, in Faust, and the other contemptible and hateful character of the Little Master in Sintram, are far more true than the Paradise Lost."

which present their steep and scarred sides to the sea, bare for the most part, but here and there with some pines upon them. Now they are preparing dinner; not in a small and unsavoury cabin, but out on the deck under awnings;—and the table-cloth is of the whitest, and the plates are of our own blue and white china, with the three men and the bridge; and the wine is in nice English decanters, and there is the nicest of desserts being spread, which it seems is to precede the dinner instead of following it.—Dinner is over, and a right goodly dinner it has been: we sat down on deck a party of ten, two Englishmen besides ourselves, both agreeable enough in their way. And now we are just off Toulon, seeing those beautiful mountains behind the town, and the masts of the shipping rising over the low ground which forms the entrance into the road, and the green hills which lie towards Hyeres, while the islands lie off as a low land, which I am afraid we are going to leave to our left, instead of passing between them and the land. Well, we are just coming to the point from which we shall see Hyeres for we are not going outside the islands, as I think, but between them and a projecting point of the coast, connected only by a low strip of sand or shingle with the main land. And now the sun is almost setting, and from him to us there is one golden line through the water, and the mountains, sea, and sky, are all putting on a softer and a deeper tint. It is solemnly beautiful to see the sea under the vessel, just where the foam caused by the paddles melts away into the mass of blue: the restless but yet beautiful finite lost in the peaceful and more beautiful infinite. The historical interest of this coast and sea almost sink in their natural beauties; together, they give to this scene an interest not to be surpassed. And now, good night, my darling-and all of you-you know how soon night comes here after the sun is down; and even now his orb is touching the mountains. May God's blessing be with you and with us, through Jesus Christ.

Genoa, July 4, 1840.

4. We are now farther from England than at any time in our former tour, dearest but our faces are still set onwards, and I believe that the more I dislike Italy, or rather the Italians, so the more eagerly do I desire to see those parts of it which remind me only of past times, and allow me to forget the present. Certainly I do greatly prefer France to Italy, Frenchmen to Italians; for a lying people, which these emphatically are, stink in one's moral

pose all the day Lez Good and sensible men, no doubt, there ar bere in abundance: but no matice presents so bad a side to a s veller as this. Fir-willst we do not see its domestic life and is private piety and charity-the infinite vileness of its public offers the pettiness of the Governments, the gross ignorance and the a falsehood of those who must come in your way, are a continual When you see a soldier here, you feel no confidence that he can fight; when you see a so-called man of letters, you are not sure that he has more knowledge than a baby; when you see a priest, he may be an idlater or an unbeliever; when you see a judge or a public functionary, justice and integrity may be utter strangers to his vocabulary. It is this which makes a nation vile, when profession, whether Godward or manward, is no security for performance. Now in England we know that every soldier will fight, and every public functionary will be honest. In France and in Prussia we know the same; and with us, though many of our clergy may be idolaters, yet we feel sure that none is an unbeliever.

5.

Pisa, July 5, 1940.

But the solemn and characteristic beauty of that cathedral, with its simple, semicircular arches of the twelfth century, its double aisles, and its splendour of marbles and decoration of a later date, especially on the ceiling. Then we went to the Baptistery, and, lastly to the Campo Santo,-a most perfect cloister, the windows, looking towards the burying-ground within, being of the most delicate work. But that burying-ground itself is the most striking thing of all; it is the earth of the Holy City; for when the Pisan Crusaders were in Palestine, they thought no spoil which they could bring home was so precious as so many feet in depth of the holy soil, as a burying-place for them and their children. This was not like Anson watching the Pacific from Tinian to Acapulco. in order to catch the Spanish treasure-ship.

Now, however, this noble burying-ground is disused, and only a few favoured persons are laid there by the special permission of the Grand Duke. The wild vine grows freely out of the ground, and clothes it better, to my judgment, than four cypresses, two at each end, which have been lately planted. The Campo Santo is now desecrated by being made a museum. The famous Cenotaphium Pisanum is here, a noble monument, but Julia's sons and Augustus's grandsons have no business on the spot which the

Pisans filled with the holy earth of Jerusalem. The town itself is very striking; the large, flat pavement filling up the whole street as at Florence, and the σróa on each side, or else good and clean houses, varied with some of illustrious antiquity. And after all we were not searched at the gate of Pisa: it seems it has been lately forbidden by the government—a great humanity. And now, dearest

good night, and God bless you and all our darlings, and wish us a prosperous journey of three days to the great city of cities; for Naples, I confess, does in comparison appear to me to be viler than vile, a city without one noble association in ancient days or modern.

July 6, 1840.

6. And now we are on the great road from Florence to Rome. ROME once again, but now how much dearer, and to me more interesting than when I saw it last, and in how much dearer company. Yet how sad will it be not to find Bunsen there, and to feel that Niebuhr is gone. I note here in every group of people whom I meet many with light, very light eyes. Is this the German blood of the middle-age conquests and wars, or are the mass of the present Italians descended from the Roman slaves-Ligurians, Kelts, Germans, and from all other nations? However, of the fact of the

many light eyes in Tuscany I am sure. The country is beautiful, and we are going up amidst oak woods chiefly. The hedges here are brilliant; the Sweet William pinks of the deepest colour; the broom, the clematis, and the gum-cistus Salvianus, that beautiful flower which I have never seen wild since 1827. Here is the beginning of the mountain scenery of Central Italy, only a very faint specimen of it; but yet bearing its character-the narrow valley, the road in a terrace above it, the village of Staggia with its old walls and castle tower, the vines, figs, and olives over all the country, and the luxuriant covering of all the cliffs and roadside banks, the wild fig and wild vine. Arrived at Castiglioncello 1.45. Left it 1.53. Ascending gradually towards Sienna, which is at the top of the whole country, dividing the streams which feed the Arno from those that feed the Ombrone. The road here is a defile through oak woods, very beautiful; and after having got up through the wood, we are in a high plain, but with higher hills around us, and a great deal of wood. Here the country looks parched, for the soil is shallow.

Arrived at the gates of Sienna 3.16. I hope that I shall not have much time to write; nor have I, for the carriage is at the door.

Left Sienna 4.50. We did not stop long, as is evident, but we dined, for two pauls each (about one franc), and we saw the cathedral, a thing very proper to do, and moreover the cathedral is fine and very rich, and has some pictures; amongst the rest, a set of pictures of the events of the life of my old friend Æneas Silvius, designed, it is said, by Raphaelle in his early youth. There were also some fine illuminations of some ancient music-books, and some very well executed Mosaics. Yet I should be a false man if I professed to feel much pleasure in such things. What I did rejoice in was the view which we had, far and wide, from the heights of Sienna, a boundless range of Apennines. And coming out of Sienna, we have just had a shower of Cicada drop from the trees upon the carriage, who hopped off when anything threatened them behind with an agility truly marvellous. And now we are descending from our height, amidst a vast extent of corn-fields just cleared, and the view is not unlike that from Pain à Bouchain, only some of the Apennines before us are too fine for the hills about Roanne. Let me notice now several things to the credit of the Italians hereabouts. First of all, the excessive goodness of the Albergo del' Ussaro at Pisa, where the master, who speaks English, changed my French money into Tuscan and Roman, a convenience to avoid the endless disputes about the exact value of the foreign coinage. Next, at Castiglioncello, the stage before Sienna, there is "Terzo Cavallo," and justly, seeing that the whole stage is up hill. I said to the ostler, "You have a right, I believe, here, to a third horse;" to which he said "Yes." But presently he added, "You are only two persons, and I shall send you with two;" and this he did without any compromise of paying for two horses and a half: but we had two, and we paid only for two. And finally, the Sienna dinner, at four pauls, at the Aquila Nera, was worthy of all commendation.

As I have occasion to complain often of the Italians, it is pleasant to be able to make these exceptions. Sienna stands like Langres, and as we have been descending, two little streams have risen in the hill-sides right and left, and now they meet and form a green valley, into which we are just descended, and find again the hedgerows, the houses, and the vines. Arrived at Montaroni 5.57. Left it 6.4. And still, I believe, we are going to have another stage of descent to Buon Convento. Alas! an adventure has sadly delayed us, for though the stage be mostly descent or level ground, yet there was one sharp little hill soon after we left Montaroni, in the