There is a flight of stone steps, leading from the street up to the area of the dwelling-house, which is situated on the side of the Rock, adjoining the Chapel. On those steps was seated, among a group of Spanish children, little Mary Dixon. I can give you no adequate idea of the double pleasure, which I felt in once more treading upon terra firma, and in recognising a countenance which bore some affinity to home. As soon therefore as I saw her, being overjoyed, I called out and sprang towards her, alarming and scouting by my violence, the little group of chattering jargonists. Mr. D.'s study is so situated, as to be the room nearest the steps, and, having instantly heard my voice, he immediately sprang out, absolutely trembling with surprise and joy; for, having had no intimation of my appointment, he of course was not at all expecting me. The only words which he could articulate, were- Oh, dear! dear!' The next moment we were locked in each other's arms; how long we remained in this situation I do not know, but without being able to utter a syllable, each leaned his head upon the other's shoulder, and wept with joy. The child too, as if able to sympathise with us, clung to us both without speaking a word. It was some considerable time, before conversation could become free. It was one of the most memorable and affecting days of my life; for, what a concurrence of circumstances had been needful to bring me here! and what a concurrence of circumstances now surrounded me! You must imagine how welcome I was. Mrs. D. received me like a Mother, and I have the delightful feeling that I contribute greatly to their domestic happiness. In fine, I am, in all respects of an earthly nature, most comfortable. Mr. D. is much esteemed and beloved here, the people know and value his worth, and his residence among them will, I am sure, be eminently useful. He and I are now studying Spanish together very closely, and we begin to feel that we make some progress. I hope to be able soon to converse in the language, and, if the Lord should favour me with health, I expect within six months to compose for the pulpit. As a foreign language, the Spanish is not difficult; though, of course, it is never a trifle to acquire a new language with the fluency and correctness necessary for public purposes. If, in the time abovementioned, I am able to compose and read from the pulpit, it will be as much as I can anticipate; yet thus much is the task which I have assigned myself, and I am applying accordingly. The people are greatly delighted at my arrival, and the grace is at present given me to perceive, that they are prepared of the Lord to receive me as His messenger, and to love me for my work's sake. But the poor Spaniards are my special object, and they indeed are in a wretched moral condition. My prospects among them, though valuable, present nothing very flattering to the view, and indeed how should they? From the situation and character of the place, it ap RELIGIOUS STATE OF THE SPANIARDS. 263 pears to me, that the probability of extensive usefulness is not great ; the people are by no means inquisitive about religion, they seem quite satisfied to be earthly, and to live as they list; but where are they not so? However, through the pious labours of a good man, who is a Local Preacher in the Spanish language, there are some few who appear excited to a true concern for their souls. Among these, is a Spanish refugee Priest, who seems effectually turned from the follies and idolatries of his former polluted and abominable Church. Perhaps, and here my strongest fears take their ground, I shall not be either pious, or zealous, or active enough, to be very useful; and this will certainly be the case, unless I receive greater power from on high than I have ever yet experienced. My health is better than it was. My rest was so much broken, that it suffered a little on the voyage; however, it is now much better than when I left home. The change of climate has been most grateful and advantageous to me, and the benefit is likely to be very decisive. The climate here is now like our June; every thing is in full bloom; the common hedges, which are all of the finest geraniums I ever saw, are many of them covered with blossoms; and oranges and lemons are hanging on the few trees, which the Rock supports, like apples and pears in an English orchard. Mr. and Mrs. D. join me, with the fervour of true brotherhood, in every kind and respectful feeling to you all. I think I love you all more than ever; and my separation from you has, more than ever, impressed upon my mind holiness, heaven, and eternity. Farewell. Grace, mercy, and peace be multiplied unto you,' and to Your most affectionate Son and Brother, WILLIAM BARBER. CHAPTER X. Description of Gibraltar-And of the Wesleyan Society and Congregation-Prospects among the Spaniards-Persecution of two British Officers for Conscience' sake-Promising Commencement of a Spiritual Work among the Spanish Catholics-Study of the Spanish Language-Providential Deliverance from imminent Danger-Effects of a Change of Climate-Low State of real Religion in Gibraltar-Loss of the Vessel in which he took his Voyage. Or the situation of Gibraltar, your knowledge must be tolerably correct from the maps, and I do not know that I can much illustrate its shape. You may remember that projecting rock at Weston-super-Mare, which stands at the left of the beach, reaching out from Uphill to a considerable distance in the water, and thus forming the southern side of the piece of water which might be called the Bay of Weston. In some respects the Rock and Bay of Gibraltar resemble this; the former being somewhat similarly shaped, only much higher and larger. The end which adjoins the mainland is almost perpendicularly precipitous, and approachable only over a narrow and flat bed of sand, which English industry has tinged with some hues of verdure, and occupied by several good houses. This tract of land is commanded by batteries, which have the power of sweeping off at a stroke whatever would venture within their reach. Shall I gain any thing for illustration by an outline without rule, and of course without proportions? * * * * * You will observe, that I pretend to no accuracy in this hasty sketch. I have used it, chiefly to convey some idea of the relation f the Rock to the Bay and the opposite shore; and for the sake of zemarking, that the side of the Rock next the Bay is the part prin DESCRIPTION OF GIBRALTAR. 265 cipally inhabited. On the Mediterranean side there is a place called Catiline Bay, with a village and a military station. As you enter the Bay of Gibraltar, the appearance of the Rock is certainly interesting, standing out as it does from the neighbouring land, as if made on purpose to command the entrance of the sea. Though in its sterility, it has resemblance enough to the surrounding barbarous, uncultivated, and unproductive scenery to intimate its kindred; it is impossible for the eye to avoid speedily fixing on the indications of improvement and of wealth, which all along the shore make it the very reverse of every thing near it. The distinction, which I have marked of the Town from the South, is very observable from the water. The town is situated on the interior of the Rock, next to the main-land; and owing to the steep slope of its site, the changes of its history, the blended civil and military character of its possessors, and the mixed medley of its inhabitants, with their various national habits, it presents no appearance of order, and makes no impression of consistency or regularity. Its houses are crowded, its streets narrow, its windings intricate, and its population swarming. The pleasantest part of the Rock is that which from its position is denominated 'The South;' and the superior pleasantness of this part, arises from its being the result of British arrangement and labour. The military barracks, stores, hospitals, and stations, as well as the dock-yard with its appendages, present a fine appearance from the entrance of the Bay; and must be a most galling spectacle, from the opposite side, to any spark of Spanish patriotism, which, if it be not utterly extinguished, may occasionally arise in the breasts of the poor inhabitants of Spain. Houses of chiefly military residents extend here and there, almost all the way, between the Town and the South, which is nearly an hour's walk. General Don, the Lieutenant-Governor, who has conducted himself here with the most manly and liberal public spirit, and thus won the gratitude and esteem, I should think, of every body; has recently made improvements, which have occupied a considerable space in this interval with a grand parade and beautiful public gardens. That space, which was formerly as rugged and barren as the rest of the Rock, has now its cavities filled up and its asperities cut down; and it presents to the eye walks, of which all the hedges are geraniums in perpetual blossom, and beds of flowers and shrubs, mostly the spontaneous growth of the climate, but known in England only in the green-house or the hot-house. The prospect from any part of the Rock must, of course, to a stranger, be impressive; and his first emotions must be those of delight, especially after the fatigues and disagreeables of a voyage; but I suspect, that the interest must soon wear down. There are here no cultivated lands, to present the varying tints of spring, and summer, and autumn, and winter; but all is rocky, and barren, and sun-burnt. There are no great roads teeming with the activities of intercourse, and sending the circulation of industrious life to the extremities. There are no manufacturing districts sending forth their multitudes to regulated labour, and giving at once the conviction and the security of wealth well employed. There are indeed two Spanish towns in sight, that is, assemblages of houses, the poor inhabitants of which have little or nothing to recommend them, except that they are immortal beings, who know neither how to live nor how to die. Over the southern end of the Rock, and bounding the south-west extent of our view, the African coast is in sight, but it is too distant to be distinct; and thus, of course, it happens that, but for the ingress and egress of shipping, there would be, indeed, but little variety to feed the appetite for change. But even this is a sort of variety, which a little use of course familiarises. From amidst themselves, therefore, and from home are to be drawn the supplies, which must keep the inhabitants of Gibraltar from the putrefaction of dissolute habits, or the senseless evaporation of an almost unoccupied life. The intercourse with Spain is very trifling; indeed, so far as I have hitherto learnt, it is almost absolutely a mere nullity as to information of any kind. Hence we are here shut up from the world, and all our means of acquaintance, even respecting the condition or transactions of our nearest neighbours, are derived through the country which holds the keys of our gates. This was not so much the case, I understand, till since the abhorred and disastrously successful interference of France in the affairs of Spain; by which the former has occupied the latter, not only with her troops, but with her manufactures, to the exclusion of those which are British. The result of this is, that Gibraltar is considerably reduced in its commercial importance, and almost all its trade is clandestine and smuggled. Of our Society, &c. it is not my intention at present to say much. I choose rather to let my remarks be the subject of close and more accurate knowledge. Taking the terms in the sense usually assigned them, I should say, that the influence and respectability of Methodism here, are not of so high a rank as, some how or other, I had apprehended them to be. It has to struggle against all those opponents, which, in every other part of the world, result from the carnal mind, and hold evangelical religion in inferiority and seclusion. I do not know that this is much to be regretted; I am sure it is not, unless religion have first changed the character of society from its sinfulness and sensuality. The great majority of the civil population here are Spaniards, Roman Catholics of course; and as they hold but little or no intercourse with the English, except when needed by business, and even then talking in a foreign language, Methodism has not existed for them. Of the English inhabitants, far the greater number are, in the very lax interpretation of the phrase, |