We cannot but feel how imperfectly we have described | not, in the region of Mountains and Lakes of Cumberthe great northern county, but our limited space com- land, a theme which has inspired many poets? The pels us to abandon a subject on which volumes might railway which conveyed us to York must now take us be written without its being exhausted; and have we back. On our way we pass through Leeds, unless, E. VOL. III. indeed, Harrogate and its chalybeate waters have temptations for us; or Knaresborough, with its caves and dripping-wells, has attractions sufficiently powerful to stay our steps. In either case, the railway is at hand to convey us to these haunts of the summer tourist, and afterwards to carry us to Leeds. From Leeds we proceed westward, through Skipton and Settle, to Lancaster, where we join the great railway which leaves Manchester for the north,-runs direct through Bolton, Preston, Garstang, and Lancaster, and then enters into the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland. A few remarks on the ancient town of Lancaster will not be out of place here. Some years ago the assizes for the whole of Lancashire were regularly holden at this city; and in those palmy times, as the judicial sittings generally extended to sixteen or twenty days, a rich harvest was reaped by the numerous innkeepers in the place. The assize business for South Lancashire was at length removed to Liverpool, as a more convenient site for the large number of suitors from that part of the county; and since that period the town of Lancaster has lost much of its importance. There are many objects of especial interest in the immediate district. The ancient castle (now the county gaol) was once the residence of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster: the Nisi Prius Court, an elegant and spacious building,-from a design by the late Mr. Harrison of Chester, and the old parish church, are worthy of close inspection; whilst from the castle terrace and church-yard delightful views of the river, Morecambe Bay, and the distant hills of Cumberland and Westmoreland may be obtained. The village of Hornby, a few miles northward, situated on the banks of the Lune, is one of the most picturesque and retired spots in the kingdom. Indeed, the river, for several miles from Lancaster, is studded with enchanting scenery, and is much frequented by the lovers of the rod and line. From Lancaster the tourist may proceed easily, via the Lancaster and Carlisle railway, into the very midst of the Lake District. Kendal is about twenty miles from Lancaster, and from the former pretty town a branch line runs direct to Windermere, whence parties may proceed to Bowness, Ambleside, Keswick, and other delightful and time-honoured places in Westmoreland and Cumberland. From Kendal also, Sedburgh, Orton, Kirkby, Stephen, Shap, Brough, and the high and low lands circumjacent, may be visited. Ulverston, Ravenglass, Whitehaven, Cockermouth, all nearly equally accessible from the Kendal railway station, will furnish another interesting route to the traveller. The county of Westmoreland is divided between the dioceses of Carlisle and Chester. Of monumental remains there are but few in the county. "Arthur's Round Table," near Eamont Bridge, is worthy of a visit, as well as other fragments, supposed to be druidical, in the same district. There are several ancient castles which will attract the attention of the antiquary, if he should be near, in his journeyings, to the site of any of them. The most conspicuous remnant of other days in Cumberland is the druidical temple near Kirkoswald, consisting of a circle of sixty-seven unhewn stones, called Long Meg and her Daughters. Be Cumberland consists principally of hills, valleys, and ridges of elevated ground. To the tourist the mountainous district in the south-west is the most interesting and attractive. This part comprises Saddleback, Skiddaw, and Helvellyn, with the lakes of Ulleswater, Thirlmere, Derwent-water, and Bassenthwaite. sides these lakes there are several of smaller size, equally celebrated for their diversified and striking scenery. Buttermere, whose charms are sweetly sung by many of our poets, Crummock-water, Lowes-water, Ennerdale, West-water, and Devock-lake, are frequented by hosts of travellers, and retain no small number of admirers. The most remarkable pheno mena connected with the Lakes are the Floating Island and the Bottom-Wind, both of which are occasionally seen at Derwent-water. The highest mountains in the county are Scow Fell (Eskdale), 3,166 feet at the highest point; Helvellyn (Keswick), 3,055 feet; and Skiddaw, 3,022 feet. The The Lakes of Westmoreland and Cumberland are numerous, beautiful, and extensive. Ulleswater, is embosomed in the centre of mountains, of which Helvel lyn forms part. The upper part of it belongs wholly to Westmoreland, while its lower part, on the border of Cumberland and Westmoreland, is about seven miles long, with an average breadth of half a mile. higher portion of the lake is in Patterdale. Haweswater is formed by the expansion of the Mardale-beck; and all the larger affluents of the Eden, which join it on the left bank, rise on the northern slope of the Cumbrian ridge. The river Leven, which flows out of Windermere, belongs to Lancashire; but the Rothay, or Raise-beck, which drains the valley of Grasmere, the streams which drain the valleys of Great and Little Langdale, and the Trout-beck, which all flow into Windermere, and may be regarded as the upper waters of the Leven, belong to Westmoreland. Elterwater, Grasmere, and Rydal-water are connected with the streams which flow into Windermere. This last-named lake has been described as situated in Lancashire; whilst in a county survey, and in the court rolls at Lowther Castle, it is included in Westmoreland. All the Lakes, large and small, have some distinguishing feature of beauty. Their boundary lines are either gracefully or boldly indented; in some parts rugged steeps, admitting of no cultivation, descend into the water; in others, gently sloping lawns and rich woods, or flat and fertile meadows, stretch between the margin of the lake and the mountains. Tarns, or small lakes, are generally difficult of access, and naked, desolate, or gloomy, yet impressive from these very characteristics. Loughrigg Tarn, rear the junction of the valleys of Great and Little Langdale, is one of the most beautiful. But before proceeding to a general account of the Lakes, a few passing notices of the principal towns and villages of the locality may be interesting; although some of them are described more at length in their proper place. The Kendal and Windermere railway runs no further than Birthwaite, which is nine miles from Kendal, two from Bowness, and five from Ambleside. From the railway terminus coaches and omnibuses meet all the trains in summer, and convey passengers onwards to Bowness, Ambleside, and other places. Bowness is a picturesque village placed on the banks of Windermere, and contains an ancient church, with a square tower, dedicated to St. Martin. In the churchyard are deposited the remains of the celebrated Bishop Watson, author of "The Apology for the Bible," he having resided at Calgarth Park, in the neighbourhood, for several years. In the vicinity is Elleray, formerly the residence of Professor Wilson; St. Catherines, the residence of the Earl of Bradford; and Storrs Hall, the residence of the Rev. Thomas Stainworth (formerly the residence of Colonel Bolton, of Liverpool, the intimate friend of the late Mr. Canning. From the schoolhouse, which stands on an eminence, delightful views of Windermere, and other parts of the district, are seen to great advantage-Belle Isle, on the Lake, which is about a mile in circumference, appearing to be part of the main land. about two miles from the inn, commands an extensive and delightful prospect; Helvellyn and Saddleback, Wansfell Pike, the upper end of Windermere, Esthwaite Water, with the Coniston range, and Langdale Pikes are all distinctly visible. The Glen of Esdaile, marked by highly picturesque features, lies in a recess between Helm Crag and Silver How, and the ascent commands fine retrospective views. Throughout this district the hills and dales are remarkably interesting, and offer numerous attractions to the tourist. Delightful excursions may be made from Grasmere into Langdale and Patterdale, and the ascent from Grasmere to the top of Helvellyn, to Langdale Pikes, and to Dunmail Raise, will be events not easily to be forgotten. A heap of stones, on the summit of Dunmail Raise, marks the site of a conflict, in 945, between Dunmail, King of Cumberland, and Edmund the Saxon King. In descending this hill Thirlmere comes in view. It lies in the Vale of Legberthwaite, and the precipices around it are objects of special admiration. The ascent of Helvellyn is sometimes begun at the foot of Thirlmere. Keswick is a market town in the county of Cumberland, and parish of Crosthwaite, and is situated on the south bank of the Greta, in a large and fertile vale, about a mile from Derwent Water. Coleridge, describing the scene, says :-"This vale is about as large a basin as Loch Lomond; the latter is covered with water; but in the former instance we have two lakesDerwent Water and Bassenthwaite Mere, with a charm Ambleside, about fourteen miles north-west of Kendal, is partly in Windermere, but chiefly in Grasmere parish. This is one of the favourite resorts of travellers in quest of pleasure. The town reposes in a beau-ing river to connect them, and lovely villages at the foot tiful valley, near the upper end of Windermere Lake. of the mountain, and other habitations, which give an The neighbourhood is studded with attractive villas. air of life and cheerfulness to the whole place." The The village of Rydal is one mile and a quarter from town consists only of one street, and comprises upwards Ambleside, and is planted within a narrow gorge, of two thousand inhabitants. Some manufactures are formed by the advance of Loughrigg Fell and Rydal carried on, including linsey-woolsey stuffs and edge Knab. Rydal Hall, the seat of Lady le Fleming, tools. Black-lead pencils made here have acquired a stands in the midst of a finely-wooded park, in which national repute: the plumbago of which they are are two beautiful waterfalls, shown on application at manufactured is extracted from "the bowels of the the lodge.-Rydal Mount, Wordsworth's residence for earth," at a mine in Borrowdale. The parish church, many years, stands a little above the chapel, erected by dedicated to St. Kentigern, is an ancient structure, │Lady le Fleming. The commanding and varied pros-standing alone, about three-quarters of a mile distant, pect, obtained from the summit of Nab Scar, richly midway between the mountain and the lake. Within repays the labour of the ascent. From the summit, this place of worship the remains of Robert Southey, which is indicated by a pile of large stones, eight dif- the poet and philosopher, lie buried. A marble monuferent sheets of water are seen, viz., Windermere, Ry- ment to his memory has recently been erected, repredal, Grasmere and Coniston Lakes, and Loughrigg, senting him in a recumbent position, and bearing an Easdale, Elterwater, and Blelham Tarns. The Solway inscription from the pen of Wordsworth, his more than Firth is also distinctly visible. literary friend for many years, and his successor to the poet-laureateship. A new and beautiful church, erected at the eastern part of the town by the late John Marshall, Esq., adds much to the quiet repose of the scene. Mr. Marshall became Lord of the Manor by purchasing the forfeited estates of Ratcliffe, Earl of Derwentwater, from the Commissioners of Greenwich Hospital, to whom they were granted by the Crown. The town The Village of Grasmere is a short walk from Rydal, and only four miles from Ambleside. Wordsworth lived here for eight years, at a small house at Town End; here he wrote many of his poems; and in the burial ground of the parish church are interred his mortal remains. In the neighbourhood there is some delightful panoramic scenery. From Butterlip How and Red Bank contains a well-stocked public library, purchased from the lake and vale are seen to great advantage. "The funds left for that purpose by Mr. Marshall; two Wishing Gate," about a mile from Grasmere, should museums, containing numerous specimens illustrating Helm Cragg, a singularly-shaped hill, natural history and mineralogy; and a model of the be visited. lake district, made by Mr. Plintoff, which was the cottages add grace and quietness to the landscape. labour of many years. The scenery in the neighbourhood of Keswick is replete with beauty, and the numerous walks and rides wonders which surrounded him, that he felt great re Gray, on leaving Keswick, was so charmed with the luctance in quitting the spot, and said, "that he had possess brilliant attractions. Villas and prettily-built almost a mind to go back again." WINDERMERE. "AN excursion-train from Preston to Windermere- wood, the Workington and Cockermouth, and the lake, during the Whitsun-holidays." How novel, and how replete with pleasant thoughts, is such an announcement as this! How plainly does it point to the approach of a time-neither obscurely shadowed nor far distant-when the working population of South Lancashire will know something of the beautiful lakes and tarns, and mountains and valleys of the northern half of their own country, and of Westmoreland and Cumberland! And the people yet further south, too: they shall, at a moderate expenditure of time and money, plunge into scenes far different from their fertile plains and graceful woodlands, and learn to contrast the sublime with the beautiful, and hail the union of each on the unrivalled Lakes. Is not this a subject for congratulation? The mighty genius, who has made every hill and every valley of the lakes "familiar in our mouths as household words," has poured out his lament over the change: Is there no nook of English ground secure From rash assault? Schemes of retirement sown 'Mid his paternal fields at random thrown? Furness-have just undergone a similar metamorphosis with regard to the Lake-approaches farther west. So difficult is the district in which the Lakes lie, that it was for a long time doubted whether railway enterprise could conquer them; but the genius of a Locke has shown that even Shap Fell must yield a path to the locomotive. The day has not yet come, it is true, when the heart of the district is so attained; but the outworks are conquered in such a way as to show that the citadel must, ere long, yield to the same agencies. It is curious to observe how the iron girdle is surrounding the Lakes on all sides. First let us look at the north. Here the Carlisle and Maryport Railway draws a line along the northern boundary of the Lake district, like one of the parallels of a besieging army; from which incursions can be made into the interior. Whether a tourist arrive at Carlisle from the east, along the Newcastle and Carlisle line, or whether (as will soon be the case) he approach it from the north, along the gigantic 'Caledonian,' he arrives at Carlisle at a point which may be deemed the northern apex of the Lake district. Then, looking toward the west, we find a continuation of the iron boundary, from Maryport to Whitehaven; and hundreds of busy workmen are now employed in carrying it forward from Whitehaven even to Dalton, in the Lancashire peninsula of Furness: so that the Lake district will here be completely invested on the west; and the Great Gavel and Sca Fell, the Black Comb and the Old Man of Coniston, will rear their mountain-tops almost within sight-seeing distance of the locomotive. From this western boundary the iron path has already penetrated into the interior as far as Cockermouth, on the way to the lovely scenes of Keswick and Derwentwater. Then, again, at the south, the Furness Company are occupying the peninsula known by that name; and, as we shall presently see, are aiding to carry out a system which shall place Windermere and Ambleside within a few hours' distance of Fleetwood. Lastly, we come to the eastern portion of this boundary, formed by the Lancaster and Carlisle railway; and here, once again, we see steampower diving into the interior from Kendal towards Ambleside. If the reader will inspect a map of the district, on which are drawn the railways that have been recently brought into operation, he will find that two short links, one from Milnthorp to Ulverstone, and one from Bowness to Cockermouth, (both of which, it may be observed, had long engaged the attention of engineers,) have so completely associated all these railways together, that a locomotive could travel round The recent openings of two railways-first the Lan- the entire margin of the district without any interrupcaster and Carlisle, and then the Kendal and Winder- tion; while the district itself has been intersected from mere-have placed Lake Windermere in a wholly new south-east to north-west by another line by way of relation to the inhabitants of counties further south; Kendal, Bowness, Ambleside, Rydal, Keswick, Cockand three other short lines-the Preston and Fleet-ermouth, and Workington. Thus the modes in which W. WORDSWORTH. We greatly fear that the "schemes of retirement" have been long ago destroyed by the richer class of tourists-those who travel in chariots and britskas; and hesitate not to walk up to the great Poet's librarywindow, or impudently enter his house, and ask him. for his autograph. We have a confiding belief that the second-class railway travellers, who purchase with hard earnings a long summer-day's holiday at Windermere, will bring to the "bright scene from Orrest-head" a reverential love which will be in perfect harmony with the "peace" that here reigns; for they will be the comparatively few in whom the great Poet himself has developed the taste for "rocks and mountains, torrents and wide-spread waters, and all those features of nature which go to the composition of such scenes as this part of England is distinguished for." (Mr. Wordsworth's Letter to the Morning Post, Dec. 9, 1814.) We have no apprehension that the Manchester spinner will desecrate the Lakes. He will return to his factory a wiser and a happier man; and his recollections will brighten many an after-hour of labour and privation. |