taste, and combines with the Grecian temple-architecture very much better than is usual with such incongruous objects as steeples. The architect was Francis Johnston, and it is one of his best works.

The Roman Catholic churches and chapels are very numerous; they are, of course, all modern, and, like the churches of the Established Church, they are commonly 'classic' in style. The prevalent Gothic feeling is only now finding vent in the new churches of both communions which are rising in the suburbs. One Gothic Catholic Chapel, however, may be pointed to, St. Michan's, in Anne-street, as, though far from perfect, a very pleasing and ornamental structure: it is built entirely of mountain granite. The most important of the Roman Catholic places of worship are the Church of the Conception and St. Andrew's Chapel. The former, often called the Metropolitan Chapel, is a magnificent structure; the style is Grecian Doric; the principal front has a massive hexastyle portico raised on a platform; the apex and extremities of the pediment are surmounted with colossal figures of the Virgin, St. Patrick, and St. Lawrence O'Toole. The south side also presents an elaborate frontage to the street. The interior is divided into a nave and aisles by a series of columns, which support an arched roof. The eastern end terminates in an apsis, from which the altar, a costly structure of white marble, stands detached. Altogether the appearance of the interior is very imposing, especially if seen during the performance of high mass. This chapel is said to have cost £40,000. St. Andrew's Chapel is situated in Westland Row, close by the terminus of the Kingstown Railway. This, like the Metropolitan Chapel, is a Grecian Doric structure. It is cruciform, and of spacious dimensions, the nave and choir being 160 feet long, the transepts 150 feet; the breadth and height are twenty feet. But the front of the chapel is prolonged at each end by the priests' houses, and thus forms a Doric façade, 160 feet long. On the pediment is a colossal statue of St. Andrew. The effect of the exterior is by no means good. The interior is less heavy. "The walls are divided into compartments with Grecian Doric pilasters. The grand altar consists of four massive pillars of Giallo Antico, which support a pediment similar to the Lantern of Demosthenes at Athens. The tabernacle and sarcophagus are of Italian marble; over the former is a fine group of figures, representing the Transfiguration; they are the work of our celebrated Irish artist, Hogan."— (M'Glashan.) St. Paul's Chapel, Arran Quay, and that of St. Francis Xavier, Upper Gardiner Street, are both very elegant

structures.

filled with 'mourners' after which succeeds an almost interminable train of outside-cars (we count above fifty), each having its full complement of six passengers -men, women, and children-not a bit of black to be seen on the back of any one of them: the men, and some of the women, smoking their short pipes,-the 'boys' making fun with the girls, and all talking and laughing in full concert. The next procession is a shade less grand, but still a 'dacent' one. First comes the coffin, carried by men in their ordinary clothes; next the chief mourners on foot, but without cloaks or bands, and in many-coloured garments; and then come all the 'friends' of the deceased, a ragged band, mounted on some thirty or forty cars, every kind of finery and rags mingled together, and, if possible, more jovial than those in the other procession. Alongside of each, and bringing up the rear, is a motley assemblage on foot. To these funerals every one who in any way knew the deceased is invited, and all go, in order, as they phrase it, "to show respect.' The custom seems ingrain; but recent misfortunes show how urgent distress will break through every custom. We were struck by the contrast presented by a funeral which we met, a few days later, in one of the poorer districts of the interior of Ireland. A plain deal coffin lay, without any covering, on a little donkey-cart, and one old woman walked beside it. We fancied that it was merely a coffin being conveyed to the house of the deceased person; but, on inquiring, found that it was, in truth, a poor fellow being carried thus unhonoured to his last earthly home.

We will now take a stroll along the Quays, which, as yet, we have only seen from Carlisle Bridge. The Liffey, as has been said, flows in easy windings quite through the centre of the city. The stream is confined within granite walls, which form a series of excellent quays, along which there is on each side of the river a clear footway, from Carlisle Bridge to King's Bridge. Indeed, the Liffey has rather the appearance of a grand artificial canal than a river. Between the quays and the houses is, on each side of the river, a wide roadway. Thus, there is here a feature which no other city in the kingdom possesses-a broad open thoroughfare, three miles long, with a fine river flowing through the midst, spanned by 7 bridges, and some noble structures along the sides. Not only should it be an ornament to the city, but, as it is a tidal stream, it ought. also to contribute to its salubrity. Very far otherwise must it be, as every one knows who has spent a summer's day in Dublin. Into the Liffey the sewerage of the city is turned; and as when the tide ebbs the bed of the river is left exposed, the most unwholesome vapours ascend and impregnate the entire vicinity. How the citizens can endure so pestiferous a stench is inconceivable. Every one admits and laments the evil; but you are told that no system of flushing the river has yet been suggested which promises to be successful, and therefore-patience.

emigrant and other vessels which trade to America and the colonies; colliers and coasting craft. But there is also a sprinkling of foreign ships. On both sides of the river there are docks; those by the Custom-house and those of the Grand Canal, are extensive, but there are very few vessels in them. From nearly all the ships lying out, and loading and discharging their cargoes in the not very wide river, the quays are very crowded, and there appears to be much more commerce than there probably is: but the shipping trade has the appearance of activity. It is, by the way, a curious sight just now to see the eager swarms that surround the emigrant offices on Eden Quay.

On the north bank, a short distance below Carlisle Bridge, is the Custom-House,-an isolated building, of far higher architectural rank than its London namesake, and probably than any other of the kind in the world. It was commenced in 1781, and completed in 1791, at a cost of above half a million sterling. The architect was James Gandon. It is 375 feet in length, and 209 feet in depth. All the four fronts are highly enriched; but the chief front is, of course, that which faces the river. (Engraving.) The river front consists of a centre and wings, with an advanced tetrastyle portico of the Doric order. The tympanum contains a basrelief, representing the Union of England and Ireland. On the attic are statues of Neptune, Plenty, Industry,

and Mercury. A noble cupola rises to the height of 125 feet, and is surmounted by a colossal figure of Hope. The north front is scarcely inferior to the southern, though less ornamented: on the attic above the portico are statues of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America. The interior is also admirable: the great room, especially, is a very handsome apartment. But this magnificent building is on far too colossal a scale for the Customs of Dublin; indeed, of late, it has been found to afford ample room for the offices of the Commissioners of Excise, of Stamps, and of Records; of the Board of Works, the Poor-Law Commissioners, Army-Pay, and several other Government Boards; and then verge enough for Geological and, we believe, other museums in short, it is now something like what Somerset House would be, if one could fancy that edifice removed to Thames Street and incorporated with the CustomHouse.

Towards the other end of the quays, just above Richmond Bridge, is another of the buildings which add so much to the grandeur of the city-the Four Courts. Our engraving (Cut, p. 255,) will serve to show its general appearance and save the necessity of description, for which we are becoming somewhat straitened in space. The Four Courts were commenced in 1786, from a design by Cooley, the architect of the Royal Exchange; but he dying while the works were

in progress, the completion was entrusted to Gandon, who made some alterations in the design. Within these few years there have been considerable additions made to the original pile. The entire structure is very large, having to afford accommodation for the courts of law, and offices connected with them. The grand front extends along King's Inns Quay for nearly 500 feet. The central building, which contains the four courts of Chancery, Queen's Bench, Common Pleas, and Exchequer, has a very beautiful portico of six Corinthian columns, with statues of Moses on the apex, and Justice and Mercy on the extremities of the pediment; and above ascends the large and graceful dome. Altogether this is generally considered to be one of the very finest as well as most important buildings in Dublin.

The great hall of the Four Courts is a very beautiful circular apartment, sixty-four feet in diameter, with a Mosaic flooring of concentric circles. In the centre is a statue of Truth on a pedestal, of which nothing better can be said than that it serves for a gaslight. Round the hall are eight entrances, leading to the courts and passages; between them are coupled Corinthian columns. An entablature surmounts these, running all round the hall, above which is an Attic pedestal. In panels over the entrances are bas-reliefs, representing William the Conqueror establishing courts of justice; the signing of Magna Charta; Henry the Second granting the first

charter to Dublin; and James the First abolishing the Brehon law.

The interior of it must not be overlooked, if the stranger be so fortunate as to spend a morning in Dublin in term time. As you enter the circular hall (a singularly beautiful one), instead of hearing the sort of quiet hum that greets you on entering Westminster or Guildhall, you are half-stunned by a confusion of voices worthy of Babel, and jostled to and fro in a crowd rivalling that of the Stock Exchange. In the passages men and women and boys are hawking tapes, and knives, and all kinds of small wares that lawyers need; and cakes, and pies, and fruit, and almost every variety of refreshment that lawyers or suitors could manage to swallow amid such a tumult. Within there is a perfect army of barristers, whether briefless or briefed, all as merry as grigs, cracking jokes on the right and left with learned brothers or unlearned clients, or assembled around some famous wag who is keeping them in a constant roar of laughter. The attorneys, and witnesses, and lookers-on, all appear bent on mirth, and laugh and talk with heart and voice heartily. Gravity seems by common consent banished from the outer court of Themis. In the inner temple, and in the presence of my lord,' there is of course something more of quiet and seriousness. If 'Counsellor Butt,' or some other favourite be addressing the bench and jury, there

is silence deep enough; but if an unlucky witness is 'tabled,' you are almost sure of some amusement. An Irish barrister seems to adopt a much more 'free and easy' style in examining a witness than an English one, and poor Pat, falling into the same familiar vein, is certain to be led into some ludicrous mistake, or contradiction, or strange absurdity.

There is another building connected with law, the King's Inns, which is worth visiting, though it is some distance off, and rather out of the way. We may conveniently reach it by Capel Street, taking, en route, the City Sessions House in Green Street, and the adjoining Prison of Newgate, both solemn and sombre edifices, and passing on till we come to the Linen Hall, a building which deserves a moment's attention. It is an immense pile of six large courts, and contains 575 apartments. It was erected at a period when Dublin was the emporium of the Irish linen trade: now that trade is almost wholly transferred to Belfast, and the hall is comparatively deserted. Though the only inns of law in Dublin, they occupy a situation almost 'out of town,' and wear a very secluded air. The building is a large and very pleasing one, and if not so striking as some others in the city, it exhibits much richness of effect, especially in the chief front, which consists of a fine central archway of granite, surmounted by a handsome Doric portico, above which, and somewhat retired, rises an octangular cupola. The wings are two stories in height, and surmounted by pediments. In each wing is a handsome doorway. The office for registering deeds and the Prerogative and Consistorial Courts are within the building. The hall is a very handsome room. Close by the Inns is the station of the Mullingar Railway; and not far distant is St. Mary's Church; both interesting buildings, and, with those we have just described, amply sufficient to repay a walk to this end of the city. From this locality we pass into Rutland Square, in which are several fine mansions. The most distinguished is Charlemont House, on the northern side, called Palace Row. It is a princely mansion, retired from the square, and detached from the other mansions. The interior is highly worth visiting, having a fine library, a statue gallery, and some remarkably fine pictures, including a Rembrandt and a Titian. On the southern side of the square we see the Rotondo, with its fine colonnade and cupola. From hence it is but a short distance eastward to Montjoy Square, which is handsome and regularly built. pass down Gardiner Street, one of the finest in the city, terminated strikingly by the northern front of the Custom House. But we must stop midway, and pass in, on the left hand, to the central establishment of the Board of National Education. The front consists of two massive granite buildings with Grecian façades, and contains board-room, library, and other apartments. The model schools, male and female, are in the rear, behind which are fine exercise ground and gardens. A visit to the schools will well repay the expenditure of half an hour.

Next we

The most striking recent additions to the architecture

of Dublin are the railway stations; and they are quite worthy of the high character of the civic buildings. This Mullingar, or Midland Great Western Railway Station, is a very striking structure. The long Ionic arcade, which has just been completed, is an exceedingly chaste design; it is constructed of a choice kind of mountain granite, which adds much to the effect. From this station there is a good view of the city. The terminus of the Drogheda Railway, close by the Custom House, is in the Italian Palazzo style, with a lofty central tower. It is a graceful building, but hardly so appropriate or characteristic as the others. The principal front is of Wicklow granite. The terminus of the Dublin and Kingstown Railway has no architectural pretensions But the handsomest railway terminus that we have seen in any part of the kingdom is that of the Great Southern and Western Railway, near King's Bridge. This is the railway that we hope to conduct our readers along, on the way to Killarney, in our journey. The station is a very large building, of the Italo-Corinthian order; the façade is highly enriched, and the style is carried out in the tout-ensemble and in the details with excellent taste. It is constructed entirely of the beautiful Wicklow mountain granite, exquisitely wrought and dressed; a material which, now it is quite fresh and clean, has quite a brilliant effect when seen under a bright sun.

Not far from this station is one of those excellent institutions which are so numerous in Dublin. This one is the Royal Hospital, which stands on the site of an ancient priory of the Knights Templars. The hospital is a noble building, erected from a design by Sir Christopher Wren. Near the terminus is Steevens's Hospital,-a noble institution, founded by Miss Steevens in 1720, and augmented by Dr. Steevens with a legacy of £60 a-year. Another edifice in this neighbourhood, though of no great elegance, will be regarded with interest when its name is mentioned-it is St. Patrick's, or, as it is more commonly called, Swift's Hospital, the institution which Swift, apparently with a painful foreboding of his own fearful malady, founded and endowed for the reception of lunatics and idiots :--he gave, as he said, with a levity that appears to have been put on, to conceal the keenness of his feelings on the subject:

"He gave the little wealth he had
To build a house for fools or mad,
And showed, by one satiric touch,
No nation wanted it so much."

If we had space, we might mention other charitable institutions; as it is, we can only say that they are very numerous, and of almost every kind, in Dublin; and many of them are on a large and liberal scale. The charity of the inhabitants of Dublin has always been munificent; and it is exercised as well privately as through public institutions.

It would be a great oversight to omit noticing the squares of Dublin; but we can only mention them. The chief is St. Stephen's Green-the largest square in Europe. It is an English mile in circuit. The

central area is laid out and planted, and contains an equestrian statue of George II. The houses around are large and lofty-many of them are noble mansions. Among the most noteworthy are the residences of the Archbishop of Dublin and of the Lord Chancellor; the Dublin University, Stephen's Green, and United Service Clubs; the College of Surgeons and Museum of National Industry are also here. Next in size to St. Stephen's is Merrion Square; which is, however, only about half as large. The houses here are uniform in appearance, spacious, and lofty.

Indeed, we have no time now to notice anything else in the city. The bridges, the barracks, and other necessary as well as ornamental structures, must all pass undescribed; so must the Theatres, the Music Halls, the Rotunda, the Gardens, and other places devoted to pleasure. It will be enough to remark, in concluding this hasty glance over Dublin, that we have inerely mentioned a few of the objects to be seen in it, and indicated a few of its peculiarities. Hardly another. city could be found where three or four days might be more profitably or pleasantly employed. There is, as even our rough notice will have shown, sufficient to repay the researches of any one, whatever may be his particular tastes, at least for a day or two; and he will be hard to please if he does not find sufficient amusement or occupation for his evenings. We have supposed the visitor to be a stranger, and his abode an hotel: it cannot be necessary to add, that if he have friends there, or any introductions, any time he can spend in the city will pass right cheerfully;-for Dublin hospitality is proverbial.*

THE ENVIRONS OF DUBLIN.

sketch.

but massive granite obelisk, mounted on a pedestal. which is raised on an elevated platform: the height of the obelisk is 205 feet. On the sides of the obelisk, from base to summit, are inscribed the victories of the duke: the sides of the pedestal are intended to have bassi-relievi of the chief battles. A lofty insulated pedestal in front is intended to bear an equestrian statue. The Duke of Wellington, it will be remembered, was born in Dublin; and the citizens, proud of their fellow-townsman, erected this testimonial, in honour of him, at a cost of £20,000, which sum was raised by a public subscription. From the mound on which the Testimonial stands a remarkably good view of the city is obtained. Nearly all the principal buildings are visible, and the open country is seen beyond. A similar, but rather more extensive, view is that from the eminence just beyond, on which stands the military Magazine known as Wharton's Folly, and which Swift made the subject of one of his latest epigrams: "Behold a proof of Irish sense!

Here Irish wit is seen:

When nothing 's left that's worth defence,
We build a magazine."

It is the kind of wit of which there has been too much in Ireland. While speaking of the general view of Ireland we may mention that the most extensive prospect (though more distant than this) is to be seen from Dunsink Hill, about three miles north-west of Dublin: it embraces not merely the city, but the noble bay of Dublin and the heights of Killiney. There is a road across the park, which leads by Observatory Gate to Dunsink Hill: the Observatory is on the hill. We must just mention, before leaving, that the gardens and menagerie of the Zoological Society are in Phoenix Park.

Quitting the Park by Knockmaroon Gate you come upon the Liffey, where flowing along a narrow but rich valley it is quite a picturesque stream. On either hand the banks form lofty uplands; those on the south are clothed with luxuriant foliage. Forwards are seen the heights of Woodland, the beautiful demesne of Colonel White. The northern slopes are for above a couple of miles entirely covered with plantations of strawberries; from them the city is supplied, but all the fruit is not sent into the city. The Strawberry Beds, as the whole tract is called, are one of the notable places of the vicinity of Dublin. During the season this is a favourite resort of holiday-makers, for whose accommodation there is a number of permanent spirit and refreshment huts built along the road-side. But Sunday is the day on which the Strawberry Beds are chiefly visited; and in fact there is a strawberry fair' held here every Sunday afternoon during the whole of the strawberry season, and for some time after the fruit has disappeared indeed it is continued till Donnybrook fair, (August 26), which famous festival terminates the summer holidays in Dublin county. It is worth while for one observant of popular habits to come here for once, in order to obtain a notion of Pat's style of enjoyment. Besides the permanent houses, there are erected for the

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