ruthlessly destroyed. The place which was the scene. of one brilliant exploit not unfrequently protected the hero from the consequences of others. It was to Yardside that Wallace was wont to fly whenever his prowess made the surrounding country too hot to hold him. In a neighbouring garden is a venerable peartree, said to be planted by his hand-but Scotland has been a free country ever since Wallace made it so, and the pilgrim is not obliged to believe all he hears. DUNDONALD AND ITS CASTLE-THE WONDROUS VASE. Pursuing for a few miles a westward course we arrive at the village of Dundonald, situated at the foot of the range of high hills which intervene between it and the Clyde. The most interesting object in the neighbourhood is Dundonald Castle-a ruin dilapidated enough to enrapture an antiquary or drive an utilitarian into a lunatic asylum. It is celebrated for the long residence of King Robert II., and the short visit of Dr. Johnson. The latter, we are told, was both amazed and amused at the fact of a King having inhabited so dismal a place. We are inclined to believe that tradition, generally speaking, is only entitled to that species of credence which would be accorded to Sheridan's friend who was said to draw upon his imagination for his facts, and upon his memory for his wit-but, nevertheless, let it speak for itself, and take its chance. A story connected with this place is derived from the source in question. We are told that Dundonald Castle owes its existence to an humble individual named Donald Din; that this individual, obeying the mandates of a dream, made a journey to London Bridge, where he was assured he would by some means come across a large fortune; that on arriving at the bridge he met a stranger, to whom he communicated his mission; that the stranger threw doubts on his chances of success, observing that he, the stranger, had been assured in a dream that he would find a treasure somewhere in the county of Ayr, but that he treated the vision with contempt. The Scot, however, equally cannie and credulous, presently perceived, from his description of the place, that the treasure, if it existed, was deposited in his own garden. He accordingly retraced his steps: and after incurring much labour, and more ridicule, he had the pleasure of disinterring a vast vase, full of gold. With the proceeds of this treasure he built a castle and founded a family. Hogg, in his Winter Evening Tales,' gives a similar story to this of the wondrous vase. In the immediate vicinity of Dundonald Castle there may be traced the foundations of an ancient church, which was designated, 'Our Lady's Kirk of Kyle.' The Stuarts-the hereditary lords of the bailliewickparticularly favoured this church. James IV., we are told, never passed through that part of the country without making an offering. TROON-IRVINE. Traversing the rugged and bramble-clothed hills of Dundonald, we descend to the little seaport town of Troon. Formerly of little importance, it has now become the first port in Ayrshire. Spacious basins, dry and wet docks, and extensive storehouses, comprise the principal utilities, if not elegances, of the place. The railway between Kilmarnock and Troon was the first established in Scotland. This communication, and the facilities of steam transit between Troon and Fleetwood, have materially benefited the trade of the town, which is still rapidly increasing. The place is also popular as a holiday resort for the Kilmarnock people. a Two miles north of Troon, at the distance of about mile from the Frith of Clyde, stands the ancient royal burgh of Irvine. This place has been considered almost from that uncertain period known as 'time immemorial'-as the capital of Cunninghame, over which, by a charter granted by Robert II., it exercised complete jurisdiction. In common, however, with Rome and Athens, Irvine has fallen from its former greatness; and has found even worse enemies than Goths and Vandals in the rising importance of adjacent towns. Its present trade consists, principally, of coal; an omen, let us hope, that the former fire of its prosperity may yet be enkindled; and in the event of its expiring, that some phoenix of industry and enterprise may be found to rise out of the ashes. In appearance the town seems flourishing enough. The main street is wide and handsome, the shops plentiful, and the public buildings-of which the principal are a parish church and a town-house-sufficiently handsome. ་ In a neat two-story house in the main street, Galt, the celebrated novelist, was first introduced to the world. His 'Annals of the Parish' refer, we believe, to his native town. In a more humble and obscure tenement, now occupied as a weaver's shop, situated at the entrance of an alley called Braid's Close,' James Montgomery was born. His father officiated as preacher in the 'Moravian Kirk' close by. It was in this town that Robert Burns began to learn the business of a flax-dresser; when the shop in which he was engaged was burnt down, and he was left, as he says, "like a true poet, without a sixpence." The site of the shop is supposed-by Robert Chambersto be now occupied by a new house, marked '4,' in a narrow street, called the Glasgow Vennel. KILWINNING ITS ABBEY, AND ITS SAINT. The wanderer in Ayrshire would do well to walk from Irvine to the next town, Kilwinning, which is situated about three miles to the northward. Eglintoun Castle, the sumptuous seat of the representative of the Montgomery family, intervenes. It is surrounded to the extent of several miles, by plantations, which, extending to the high road, communicate to it an agreeable and retired aspect. The neatly-trimmed hedges, and fine trees overhanging them; the pretty 1 lodges in the midst of shrubs and flowers; the frequent glimpses to the left of the Clyde, and to the right of the splendid palace of Eglintoun-all contribute to the beauty and interest of the walk. It was there that, in 1838, the celebrated Tournament attracted all the chivalry of the nineteenth century, and imparted to the languid dandyism of Young England something very much akin to a 'sensation.' In the immediate neighbourhood are the Eglintoun Iron-works, and numerous coal-pits, which afford employment to a large number of persons who, however, are chiefly Irish. The tourist should not forget that the parish churchyard contains some interesting monuments; and that from the tower, a view, unequalled hereabouts, of the surrounding country, of the hills of Carrick, of the proud peaks of Arran, and of several smaller islands to the northward, is obtainable. SALTCOATS AND ARDROSSAN. A few miles of well-cultivated country, to the southwest of Kilwinning, lies between that place and Saltcoats-a small town, situated on a sandy level. The place possesses a small harbour, the boats belonging to which are engaged chiefly in the herring trade. Our old friend, Tradition, asserts that the manufacture of salt was anciently carried on here by a small com The village of Kilwinning stands on the right bank of the river Garnock, which joins the Irvine and empties itself into the Clyde. In associations the place is rich; in every other respect it is poor and comfortless enough. Now, notwithstanding that we have sufficient reverence for the past and anticipations of the future, we confess to a certain prejudice in favour of the present, when our personal comforts and tastes are concerned; and unless we adopt that profitless, and perhaps scarcely respectable, style of existence, known among poets as living "in the Ideal" but classed by mediocrity and mere honesty as some-munity of individuals, who used coal for the purpose thing worse than an actual garret-it is difficult, with any satisfaction, to exchange the one for the other. We cannot, therefore, recommend Kilwinning as an eligible residence. The locality derives its name from St. Winning, a Scottish saint of the eighth century. The abbey was founded in the twelfth century, by Hugh de Morville, for a colony of Tyronensian monks, from Kelso; and was dedicated, like the church which preceded it, to St. Winning. The monks of Kilwinning were celebrated even above all their contemporaries for their craftiness and chicanery, and for the power which they exercised over the duped and deluded community. To the west of the Abbey there is a fountain, known as 'St. Winning's Well;' which, in the year 1184, according to Hoveden, ran blood for eight days and nights. A tradition current in the neighbourhood asserts that this fountain, on the anniversary of the death of the saint from whom it derives its name, ran blood for a stated period, during which it was visited by large numbers of people from the surrounding country, in the belief that the crimson stream was a certain cure for all diseases. Not more than a dozer years ago, a curious light was thrown upon this subject. An underground communication of leaden pipes, was discovered between the well and the ruins of the abbey; and it would appear that the monks made use of this medium for the conveyance of their patron's blood! The abbey was almost totally annihilated in 1560, by Alexander," the good Earl of Glencairn," by order of the States-General of Scotland. The ruins remaining are in a course of rapid decay. Like the city of York in England, the town of Kilwinning in Scotland is known as being the first place where freemasonry was established in that country. It is said to have been introduced by a community of the order from the continent. James I. patronized and became Grand Master of the mother-lodge, which had for a long time slumbered in obscurity. of fuel, which they found near the surface in their neighbourhood. Saltcoats was also the first place in Scotland where magnesia was manufactured in connection with salt. The male portion of the population are now principally engaged in light weaving. The sea Saltcoats is very intimately connected with the flourishing town of Ardrossan, which, situated at the northern extremity of the Bay of Ayr-of recent construction, and composed mostly of houses belonging to a more wealthy class of people-Ardrossan presents a powerful contrast to its tile-roofed, smoke-begrimed neighbour, Saltcoats. During the last few years, considerable improvements have been made in the town, and various elegant villas built in its neighbourhood, for the accommodation of summer visitors. port of Ardrossan was founded by the late Earl of Eglintoun, and is finely sheltered from all but southwesterly gales, by the Horse Island, and other outlying rocks. The harbour will come into the possession of the Glasgow, Kilmarnock, and Ardrossan Railway Company, in 1850; when that undertaking-from which it is expected the town will derive so much benefit--will be completed. The distance between Ardrossan and Belfast is accomplished in eight hours, by means of the handsome and commodious steamers, constantly running, in connection with the Ayrshire railway. The harbour revenue, from this and other sources, amounts to a considerable sum. LARGS ITS HARBOUR AND HILLS. Still traversing the coast, to the northward, we pass through Kilbride, and are at length "out of the world and into the Largs." This health-inspiring district was the scene of the conflict between Alexander III. and his army, and the Norwegian invaders, under Haco. The place seems literally "out of the world," and cut off from all earthly connections. Enclosed on all sides but one by vast hills, it is open only to the Frith of Clyde-here so busy and so beautiful. A little to the southward, the larger Cumbray lies out in the water; Fairlie Roads intervening. The hills, covered with fine pasturage, gradually lower as they approach the shore; but in some cases stopping with remarkable abruptness, leaving almost perpendicular declivities, of considerable height. "For a mile from the northern boundary, the uplands form at their base what seems an impregnable bulwark, or perpendicular marine breastwork of rock, rising in some places fifty or sixty feet above the road, and seeming to overhang it. When covered with icicles, and lit up by sunshine, in winter, this huge natural wall is a glorious object-a stupendous cabinet of the richest gems." So says Fullarton, in his Gazetteer of Scotland;' and we can well imagine such an effect under such circumstances. The remains of old castles abound in the neighbourhood, all of which are worthy of a visit. Between one and three miles of the village stands Kelburn House, a seat of the Earl of Glasgow; behind it is a romantic glen, of great beauty; at the head of which, over a wild and lofty precipice, a stream descends. Winding down a narrow path, it again, at but a short distance from Kelburn House, falls over a precipice fifty feet high. Brisbane House, a residence of the family of that name, stands to the north of Largs, surrounded by tasteful pleasure-grounds and picturesque scenery. Southward of Largs there is a large plain, said to have been the scene of the contest of the Scots with the Norwegian invaders. Hereabouts there are numerous vestiges of cairns and tumuli; below which, in all probability, lie the dust of many a "Norwegian warrior grim, Savage of heart, and large of limb." A large quantity of human bones which have been found buried under a large mound overlooking the town seem to justify this conclusion: and there are various other memorials of the battle of Largs. Norwegians, and driven them ignominiously from the field. The fact, as stated by Mr. Tytler, is that the force of the Danes did not amount to more than 900 men, while that of the Scots was 1,500; and that the discomfiture of the Danes was increased by the inclemency of the weather, which king Haco attributed to witchcraft. It is as well that such points as these should be put in their true light. The fact is sufficiently honourable to our own countrymen as it stands; and even if it were not so, the character of the country could well sustain the loss; for it would require a tolerable amount of even defeat and discomfiture to deprive Scotland of her reputation as a brave and martial nation. The appearance of the village is very beautiful. Most of the houses are of a superior order, for the accommodation of visitors-from whom the chief support of the place is derived. Villas are scattered here and there at each end of the village, and also on the neighbouring eminences. The scene at the small quay, overlooked by a fine terrace, is, during the summer months, extremely animated. Nor are baths, and a library, and the usual concomitants of a watering-place, found wanting. The June Fair on St. Columbus day, vulgarly called Colms-day Fair,' has fallen off from its former importance, and is now but a miserable remnant of what it was. The parish church is a neat building, situated at the northern extremity of the terrace facing the sea. At its northern end there is an aisle, constructed in 1636, by Sir Robert Montgomery of Skelmorlie. Its interior is lofty and imposing. "The roof is embowered or vaulted semicircularly with boarding. It is thrown, by pointed Gothic arches, mouldings, and panels, into forty-one compartments of various forms and dimensions-each of which is adorned, with the pencil, with a religious, moral, emblematical, fanciful, or heraldic subject." The family vault of the Montgomeries is under the aisle. It is covered by a fine old monument. Past Skelmorlie Castle there is a stream, designated Kelly Burn; which forms the northern extremity both of the parish of Largs and the county of Ayr. The battle between the Norwegians and the Scots is the great event recorded in the history of Largs. It is seldom that a story loses anything by repetition; but such has been the case with regard to the conflict in question. Tradition represents the force of the former to have been nearly overwhelming, and their defeat well nigh miraculous. The old writers, too, have recorded the event as sufficiently marvellous ; and it was not until the sober pen of the modern historian toned down these patriotic imaginings into something quite common-place and practical, that there existed any doubt of 5,000 Scots having defeated 24,000! of Largs. Here, then, we bring our wanderings to a conclusion contented and in good-humour with our restingplace; and, indeed, it would be difficult to find one less exceptionable than the village and neighbourhood thirty years powerful vessels have performed the voyage between Glasgow and Belfast, and Glasgow and Londonderry, three times a-week, with unerring regularity. Latterly the intervention of railways has shortened the voyage, and it is now usual for passengers by the Irish steamers to go on board at Greenock, by which four hours are saved in the voyage. Placed on the extreme west of Europe, Ireland stands sentinel, as it were, to the Americas,-washed on three sides by the great Atlantic Ocean, and on the fourth by St. George's Channel; the coast, indented with numerous bays and natural harbours, offers numberless advantages for the American voyage. Ireland is divided into four provinces,-Ulster, on the north; Leinster, on the east; Connaught, on the west; and Munster, on the south. The general surface of the country in the interior is a plain, interspersed with low hills. The coast-line is bold and precipitous; the Antrim coast, on the north, rises to the height of 1800 feet, and in Donegal, on the north-east, Mount Errigal attains the height of 2460 feet above the level of the sea. On the west a long chain stretches through the counties of Sligo, Mayo, and Galway, whose culminating point, Mulrea, attains an elevation of 2000 feet. On the south, the Lugnaquilla, in county Wicklow, attains a height of 3000 feet. On the Waterford coast the Camaraghs are about 2600 feet; while the far-famed Killarney mountain, Carrantuil, rises to the height of 3414 feet, the highest summit in Ireland. On the east, Slieve Donmel, in county Down, rises 2796 feet above the level of the sea. Besides these mountains on the coast, numerous ranges of mountains intersect the interior of the country, imparting to it some very remarkable characteristics. Among these may be named the Forth Hills, Slieve Margy, and Slieve Ardagh, in Leinster; the Nagles, Kilworth, and Devil's-bit Hills, in Munster; Slieve Aughty, Slieve Aneiran, the Curlew, and the Ox Hills, in Connaught; and Slieve Glah, the Newry, Divis, and Carntogher Hills, in Ulster. There are just now many circumstances which should direct the English tourist to Ireland rather than to those localities whither he has formerly turned. The continent is no longer the pleasant land it lately was. The tourists who are lovers of natural scenery will probably be tempted by the splendid mountains and lakes of Wicklow and Killarney, by Glengariff and the Giants' Causeway; but duty should direct the steps of many thitherward likewise. The hopeful calm which has succeeded the long dreary tempestuous season there, should induce not a few to acquaint themselves, by personal observation, with the scenes and circumstances which have engaged so long and so anxiously the public attention. Well will it be if it happen so. Assuredly the most serviceable and instructive, if not altogether the most pleasant, tour that English men and women can make just now, is the tour of Ireland. It is, indeed, something more than a duty, for those who have any weight or influence in the country, to go there but it is most desirable that every one who can go should do so. Notwithstanding all that he may have read and heard about Ireland, it is only when he has seen it for himself that an Englishman comes to comprehend distinctly its condition and its character. A short tour may not teach him much, but it will teach him something-and something of value, too, if he guard against hasty impressions and mere impulses. Ireland offers to one who visits it for the first time a field of observation as new and curious as almost any European country, and infinitely more interesting and suggestive. He must indeed travel to small purpose who gains nought by a journey there. And there are now no lions in the path. We have often heard a journey in Ireland spoken of as a very hazardous thing: it is certainly otherwise. Travelling, there, is as easy and safe, and almost as pleasant, as in England or Scotland-while it is very much cheaper. We say almost as pleasant, because there is still the drawback of beholding the poverty, the wretchedness, and the mendicancy of the peasantry-which, we believe to be now rapidly passing away but the very visiting may do something, and ought to do much, towards alleviating this state of things. Kindlier feelings must grow with increasing intercourse; and with mutual knowledge something will be done towards removing or softening the suspicion and distrust with which the inhabitants of the two countries unhappily regard each other. Only good can arise from more familiar acquaintance. Happy shall we be if we are able in some measure to promote so desirable an end— if we can induce more of our summer and autumn ramblers to visit the sister island, or, still better, if we can lead some thither who travel with other and nobler purposes than the mere gratification of curiosity, or the search after change of scene and personal enjoyment. Our intention at present is to notice briefly the scenery of the north and the Irish metropolis, and then to guide the reader to the more picturesque and celebrated parts of Wicklow; we shall afterwards continue the tour to Killarney and the south. We shall, of course as we have always done-carefully abstain from political and religious, or, at least, from party and sectarian, allusions; but before concluding we shall glance freely at the condition of the people and of the country; a sketch made at the present moment of any part of Ireland would be imperfect indeed in which that were omitted. The reader must not expect from us specimens of Irish wit or Irish brogue. Of the wit, we met with but very little it seems, in truth, if a stranger may venture to say so, pretty well exhausted-starved out, it may be, as some native apologists affirm; or smothered by political passions, as others suggest; or, as some may add, by the prosaical influences of high wages, and consequent luxury. As for the brogue, that, though well enough to listen to from Patrick himself-especially when expressing some of those quaintnesses which only Patrick can utter—is hard to endure in print even from an Irish writer, and is utterly unbearable from an English or Scotch one. We therefore shall not make any assaults in this way on the |