Page images
PDF
EPUB

upon three thousand of the enemy-a battle thus | of carpets, from succeeding as well in this place as in described by Hugh Brown:

"The Bruce's sword, the soldier's trusty spear, Fell like the lightning in its full career : The patriot-king, with rapture-kindled eye, Triumphant saw the reeling phalanx fly; And Victory's beacon-light begin to burn, The glorious prelude to his Bannock-burn!" The first Scottish Parliament which assembled after the latter decisive battle, was held at Ayr. During the whole struggle the county had played a conspicuous and honourable part.

During the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, Ayrshire experienced a full proportion of the disorder and anarchy so prevalent throughout the land. In the early days of the Reformation both Wishart and Knox pursued their labours frequently in the town of Ayr. In the reigns of Charles II. and James II., Ayrshire was prominent in the religious struggles which occupied the country. The inhabitants suffered much persecution from their zeal in the cause of the Covenant. They were strong supporters of the Revolution, and, subsequently, of the House of Hanover.

But the religious zeal of the people of Ayrshire led to their temporal depression. Towards the close of the last century, commerce, manufactures, and agriculture had alike fallen into decay. The establishment, however, about 1770, of Messrs. Douglas, Heron and Company's Bank at Ayr, and the exertions of various influential gentlemen in the promotion of agriculture and a spirit of enterprise, have resulted in a degree of prosperity which promises to be permanent and increasing.

Indeed, there is every probability that the lapse of a few years will find the condition of the county materially improved. In nearly every direction we find marks of progress: railways and steam-boats, docks, harbours, and manufactories, are all increasing, and lending additional and more effective assistance to commercial enterprise; while libraries, scientific institutions, and the spread of cheap literature, combine to enhance the social welfare of the population, by the elevation and refinement of their intellectual and moral characters. Regarding the capabilities of the town, a writer in the New Statistical Account of Scotland' says: "It has often been a matter of surprise that Ayr has not been more benefited by manufactories and public works,-possessing as it does so many advantages for this purpose, and such facilities of communication with other places both by sea and land. With such an extensive grain country surrounding it, distilleries could not fail to thrive; the price of labour is low-rated, and all the other requisites are easily procurable. Cottonworks might prosper as well here as at Catrine, the town being as favourably situated in regard to all the materials necessary, coal, water, and labourers in abundance; while it has greatly the advantage, by enjoying the means of sea as well as of land-carriage. And we can see nothing to hinder the manufacture of wool in its various branches, particularly in the weaving

Kilmarnock, which owes to this cause so much of its wealth and prosperity."

Since the above was written the carpet manufacture has been commenced in Ayr, and with every prospect of extensive and increased comfort to the neighbourhood.

The other manufactures of the county consist principally of cotton and woollen articles,-shawls, calicoes, muslins, serges, &c. And in addition to the extensive factories for carrying on these branches of trade—which are conducted principally by means of machineryprint and bleach works have arisen on all sides. Tanning is carried on to some extent. Neither the linen nor the silk manufacture have been prosecuted with much success. Kilmarnock is the great seat of the woollen manufacture in this county. Its shawls are celebrated, and are produced in large numbers; and its carpets are also a very valuable branch of trade. Tanning, and the manufacture of shoes, bonnets and hats, machinery, and miscellaneous articles, are carried on with great success.

The geological character of the county varies in different districts. The parish of Ayr may be described as presenting a superficial district of no definite geological character, the external surface being covered with a diluvium, or broken mass of sand, gravel, or clay, intermixed with water-worn detached whinstones. Taken as a whole, its uppermost character belongs to the coal formation, which useful mineral, it is to be regretted, has not conferred so much benefit on the neighbourhood as might have been the case. In Ardrossan parish there is also a considerable amount of coal to be met with. There are three limestone quarries within its boundaries, which are worked more or less. The lime is of good quality. Freestone, both red and white, is very abundant. In the town of Ardrossan there is a large quarry of the former kind. But since the formation of the railway, the demand for it has not been so great, owing to the facility with which stone of a superior quality can be procured from the Stevenston quarry. Kilmarnock is an important mineral district. Besides coal-to which system the district is principally confined-greenstone, ironstone, freestone, and sandstone, of very good quality, are to be met with. Taken as a whole, the county has undoubtedly advantages in this respect, which need only fair development to render it as prosperous as could be desired.

In agriculture, a very great improvement has taken place of late years. And when we consider the wretched condition of the county at no very remote date,—when animal food was only an occasional luxury of the middle class of inhabitants, and a thing almost unattainable by the peasantry ;—and when the landlords themselves often found their estates insufficient for their maintenance, -the highest credit must reflect upon the inhabitants, whose industry and perseverance contributed to rescue them from the state of degradation to which bad seasons, ignorance, and prejudice had reduced them.

Thus much for generalities. Let us now take a leisurely survey of the scenery and outward characteristics of the county-noting, not only its 'lions,' but also its smaller points of attraction.

At the present time, if art has been less busy, and | Craven, Lancashire, and Leicester; but they do not nature less bountiful than could be desired, in con- appear to have succeeded. ducing towards agricultural improvement,-there are yet sufficient indications of an onward tendency to give encouragement to the highest hopes. In several parts of the county new systems are being introduced, and old errors eradicated. Draining and planting are proceeding very satisfactorily; and in most districts active efforts are being made, both to develope the resources of nature, and to provide for her deficiencies.

Oats is the grain most cultivated; and in this respect the county is pre-eminent. Wheat is but little grown ; Wheat is but little grown; but its quality is excellent. Turnips and potatoes are in very general cultivation, the latter in particular; and there is a very fair proportion of vegetables of other kinds. Flax is raised. The best rotation of crops was considered, some years ago, to be oats or beans raised after ploughing up a grass-field; after these, in dry soils, turnips, or other green crops, such as kale, vetches, tares, or potatoes. In very strong soils, drilled beans, cabbages, and carrots, in the place of turnips, followed by a crop of barley, sown with artificial grass-seeds. After the clover, wheat or oats, or, in very light lands, rye. This system has, in some districts, been changed, but prevails more or less in others.

The system of furrow-draining has been very generally adopted in many districts, and has given a great impulse to agriculture by the increase of produce. When this mode of draining was first introduced into Ayrshire, we are told that it was done by means of small stones. But of late tiles have been substituted, and with increased advantage. Fields which, under the old system, yielded only from 3 to 4 bolls of oats per acre, have, by means of furrow-draining, yielded about double the quantity. It is an opinion very generally entertained, that should the system be carried to its greatest possible extent, the county will not only be in general independent of supplies of foreign grain, but become an exporting one.

The cultivation of trees, in many parts of the county, is not so well understood or practised as could be desired: at any rate, this is the case with many of the smaller plantations. These are generally narrow belts immediately around the farm-houses. From a wish to get as much shelter as possible, with a small sacrifice of ground, the trees are often allowed to grow up in so crowded a state, that they soon choke each other.

LOITERINGS BY THE WAY.

We shall commence at the southern extremity of the shire, where we enter the Vale of Glenapp-a spot not without its attractions in the way of scenery and associations. The little fishing village of

Ballantrae occupies a favourable position on a level portion of the coast, at the mouth of the Stinchar Water, and in the parish of the same name. The inhabitants of this district did not enjoy the best reputation either for character or conduct. Their mode of life was-cannibalism and tattooing apart-as savage as might well be. But if their virtues were primitive, their vices were those of civilization; and the smuggling propensities of the population tended not a little towards their demoralization. But a change has come over the place of late years: the revenue is no longer defrauded, and the village is sombre and civilized enough to satisfy a moralist, or disgust the author of ' Eothen.'

From Ballantrae to Girvan we have a walk of about a dozen miles-rendered interesting by bold and picturesque scenery. The range of precipices called Gamesloup, with the tall gaunt ruins of Carleton Castle in their immediate neighbourhood, form the scene of one of the wildest legends of this wild coast -we allude to that contained in the ballad of 'May Cullean'-so popular in Carrick. The story goes that the castle was once occupied by a terrible baron, who was a 'lady killer,' in more senses than one: for he had not only contrived to marry seven wives, but had released himself from them successively and successfully by precipitating them from a mighty crag, overhanging

the sea.

This economical method of saving the expenses of the Ecclesiastical Court, had, besides, gained for him a vast amount of wealth-the accumulated fortunes of the ladies. For the eighth time he tied the matrimonial knot; but in this case it formed a noose which proved fatal to him. On leading May Cullean to the crag where he was wont to settle his domestic disputes, the lady pretended to agree to his proposals for a separate maintenance, and to prepare to take the fatal step-that is to say, plunge.

"Her gentle limbs did she undress,"

Besides the native breed of cattle, which is celebrated for its excellence, Highland, Alderney, and Irish cattle are sometimes seen in the county. In the southern part they are mostly of the Galloway breed, and in for the purpose; but not being inclined, like 'Chris

the northern part of the Dunlop. The richness and excellent quality of milk produced by the latter has given to Dunlop that great reputation for cheese which it has long maintained. Indeed, in that part of the county more attention is paid to the manufacture of dairy-produce than to any other pursuit. Several attempts have been made to introduce cattle of various descriptions,-Dutch or Holderness, the wide-horned,

tabel,' to

"Lay down in her loveliness,"

she paused in her task, and as her beauty became every instant more unadorned, requested her companion to turn away his head for the sake of propriety. The 'fause baron' complied, and the lady, seizing at once the opportunity and his portly person, precipitated him from the fatal cliff!

GIRVAN AND TURNBERRY CASTLE.

Girvan is situated on a fine bay at the mouth of the water of the same name. It consists principally of one-story cottages, containing respectively two rooms: one devoted to domestic uses, the other to the purposes of a workshop. The parish of Girvan is divided near its centre by a range of high hills, and through it meanders "Girvan's fairy-haunted stream"-the banks of which present scenes well worthy of Burns's eulogium.

Taking the coast road northward from Girvan, we traverse a sandy beach several miles in extent, and arrive at the ruins of Turnberry Castle, situated on the summit of a rocky eminence washed by the waves. In the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, Turnberry, or as it was then called 'the Palace of Carrick,' was the seat of that powerful family of which Robert Bruce was so all-powerful a member. Constant exposure to sea and storm has reduced it to a ruinous and dilapidated condition; but there still remain the vestiges of a drawbridge, several vaults, and other testimonies of its former importance.

This portion of Ayrshire-the wild coast of Carrick -is replete with associations, not only historical, but supernatural. Burns describes it as the place

"Where Bruce once ruled the martial ranks,
And shook the Carrick spear."

It was in the neighbourhood of Turnberry Castle that Bruce, in the spring of 1308, arrived with a party of followers from the Isle of Arran, for the purpose of subjugating Carrick. It had previously been arranged that on a certain day-if all círcumstances proved favourable-a fire would be lighted on the Carrick coast, by his friends there, as a signal for him to embark from Arran. Towards nightfall of the appointed day, the signal was seen. Bruce, immediately setting sail, arrived that evening at Carrick. But he arrived only in time to find the Castle of Turnberry occupied by Percy and a strong party; and himself utterly powerless. The most startling fact, however, that he had to learn, was that no signal had been lighted by his friends; and that the origin of the fire which he had seen was unknown. But Bruce's decision and determination overcame even his supernatural opponents— for such they were considered to be. He immediately rallied his friends, attacked and shortly afterwards took Turnberry, and succeeded in reducing the entire district. Scott, in his Lord of the Isles,' makes an allusion to the mysterious appearance of the fire:

"Now ask you whence that wondrous light
Whose fairy glow beguiled their sight?
It ne'er was known—yet gray-haired eld
A superstitious credence held,
That never did a mortal hand

Wake its broad glare on Carrick's strand;
Nay, and that on the self-same night

When Bruce crossed o'er, still gleams the light.
Yearly it gleams o'er mount and moor,
And glittering wave, and crimson'd shore→→→
But whether beam celestial, lent

By Heaven, to aid the king's descent;

Or fire hell-kindied from beneath,
To lure him to defeat and death;
Or were it but some meteor strange,
Of such as oft through midnight range,
Startling the traveller late and lone,
I know not-and it ne'er was known."

The Farm of Shanter is situated about a mile from Turnberry Castle, on a slope gradually ascending from the seaside to the village of Kirkoswald. This farm was the residence of Douglas Graham, the hero of 'Tam O'Shanter:' the poem which Burns considered the most perfect production of his pen. The gifted ploughman, in his nineteenth year, resided at Kirkoswald; and his sketch of the amusing character in question was drawn from personal experience. Nor is the picture exaggerated. Smuggling was at that period practised to such an extent in the neighbourhood, that it was no uncommon occurrence for the inhabitants of a farm-house, from the 'auld guidman' down to the herd-boy, to remain in a state of intoxication for several days; indeed, it was said to be customary to manufacture the habitual porridge of these simple people by mixing the meal with brandy instead of water!

The village of Kirkoswald occupies the highest point of the slope above mentioned. The situation is commanding and picturesque. On the west, are the ruins of an ancient church said to occupy the site of one built there by Oswald, a Northumbrian king of the Heptarchy, in commemoration of a victory achieved near the spot. From this 'Kirk of Oswald' the village doubtless derives its name. The school-room where Burns studied geometry and land-surveying, under the far-famed Rodger, is still to be seen. It stands in the main street of the village, and is, or was, inhabited by a son of St. Crispin. Douglas Graham, alias Tam O'Shanter, lies along with his 'ain wife Kate,' in the churchyard of the village. Their resting-place is marked by a humble monument, on which, besides other inscriptions, are the lines commencing,

"She tauld thee weel thou wast a skellum,

A blethrin, blusterin, drunken blellum." The Abbey of Crossraguel arrests our attention about two miles north of Kirkoswald. It is considered the most perfect edifice of the kind in the west of Scotland. It was founded in the year 1266 by Duncan, King of Scotland. The walls of the church and choir still remain, to the height of fourteen feet; and the niche where the principal altar stood is yet entire. The vestry and the Abbot's Ecclesiastical Court, to the right of the building, are also in a very complete stateas well as two towers or castles, formerly the residences of the abbots. The celebrated George Buchanan was formerly commendator of the abbey, and received a yearly pension from its revenues.

CULZEAN AND THE KENNedys.

A short distance past Crossraguel stands Culzean Castle: a modern building, the seat of the Marquis of

Ailsa. It is finely situated on the verge of a huge | in 1569, was engaged in a feud with the Laird of Barrock overhanging the sea, at about a hundred feet gany, which resulted in the assassination of the former, above its surface, and consists of a range of lofty near the town of Ayr, on the 12th of May, 1602. The castellated masses, covering about four acres. It has Mures of Auchendrayne-father and son- by whom a fine approach-bridge, and a terrace-garden, decked the act was committed, play a conspicuous part in a with rare and beautiful flowers in the front. drama which Sir W. Scott has written upon the subject.

The several branches of the Cassilis family appear to have held the lands of Culzean during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. A short account of this remarkable family may possibly prove interesting.

The feuds, we are told, between the Earls of Cassilis and the Lairds of Bargany had been of long continuance; and after being partially healed, had, for some reason or other, broken out afresh. On the 11th of The Kennedys seem to have held an ascendancy in December, 1601, while the Laird of Bargany was feudal times over a very large district, from Wigton to riding from the town of Ayr to his own mansion on the town of Ayr, and the title of Cassilis is a con- the banks of the Girvan, attended only by a few folspicuous one in Scottish history. In 1220, we find lowers, he encountered the Earl of Cassilis, with two this illustrious house first mentioned. In that year hundred men, who were lying in wait for him, at the Nicol de Carrick granted the church of St. Cuthbert Lady Carse, about half a mile north of the town. at Maybole, to the nuns of North Berwick, His son The laird, who was on the other side of the valley, Rowland, several years after, obtained a charter from endeavoured to avoid a collision; but not so the earl, Neil, Earl of Carrick, which, in A.D. 1276 and 1372, who followed down the south side, and coming to some was confirmed by Alexander III. and Robert II. This "feal dykes," which offered a good support to the deed is entitled 'Confirmatio Johannis Kennedy,' which firearms of his followers, they immediately began to marks a change of name from Carrick to Kennedy-discharge them at Bargany and his men. Bargany,

The earliest mention of the lands of Cassilis is contained in a writ given by king David II. to Sir John Kennedy, about the year 1860, in which that monarch confirms to the knight the donations, grants, and venditions made to him by Marjory Montgomery and her daughter, of the lands of Castlys, in the county of Ayr. Soon after, the wealth and influence of the family were greatly advanced by the marriage of Sir James Kennedy to the daughter of King Robert III. Gilbert, the second earl of Casilis, was a man of splendid talents, and was employed in several offices of high trust. He was assassinated at Prestwick by Hugh Campbell, sheriff of the county. His son Quintin, abbot of Crossraguel, was a stout defender of the Romish religion; and at his death was publicly | canonized.

a Gaelic compound, signifying the head of the house finding that they could not avoid the rencontre, crossed or family. the burn; but on reaching the south side of it, he perceived that none had ventured to follow him but Mure of Auchendrayne, the laird of Cloncaird, James Bannatyne, and Edward Irving. On observing this, he turned round and said, "Gude sirs, we are ower few?" They nevertheless defended themselves with great bravery, and wounded or slew the first of their assailants; but, overpowered by superior numbers, Irving was soon slain, and the others disabled. The laird himself performed prodigies of valour, and succeeded, for some time, in maintaining his ground, seeking out the earl in the midst of his own followers. But at length, pressed on all sides, he was basely struck from behind, and fell, mortally wounded. He was carried to Ayr, and died in twenty-three hours. Thus fell, at the age of twenty-five, one of the bravest and most popular men of his time. Through the influence of Lady Cassilis the earl obtained pardon from the king for this murderous deed; but his family did not entirely escape its consequences. Auchendrayne, who had married the sister of the young laird, determined to revenge his death. Being apprised by Sir Thomas Kennedy, of Culzean, of his intention to visit Edinburgh, he instigated a party of his followers to waylay him at a place he had appointed for a friendly meeting, where they accordingly found and murdered him. Auchendrayne then resolved upon destroying all proof of his participation in the crime, which could be best done by putting out of the way the messenger who had given him notice of the place of meeting. The person who brought the message of Culzean to Maybole, transmitted it from thence to Mure, by the hands of a poor student named Dalrymple. After various attempts to keep this person in confinement, or out of the country, Mure resolved upon his death. He was accordingly enticed by a vassal of Mure's, James Bannatyne, to his house at

Gilbert, the third earl, was the pupil and intimate friend of the celebrated George Buchanan. The bitter satire that Buchanan wrote against the Franciscan Friars was composed during his residence at Cassilis.

John, the sixth earl, was an ardent friend of the Protestant cause in general, and of the Church of Scotland in particular. He was one of the three ruling elders sent to the Assembly of Divines at Westminster, in 1643, to ratify the solemn League and Covenant. His wife is the heroine of a ballad-story, of which we shall speak presently: his daughter-a lady of distinguished piety and excellence married to Bishop Burnet.

was

His son, the seventh earl, was the single person who lifted up his voice against the Act for punishing conventicles. This independent line of conduct was so offensive to the ministry, that he was denounced an outlaw, and forced to flee from the country.*

Sir Thomas Kennedy, who succeeded to the estate * New Statistical Account of Scotland.'

Chapeldonan,—a solitary spot on the sea-shore,-and | opposed to the lady's wishes. The usual consequences

there at midnight, by the elder and younger Mures. was murdered, and buried in the sand. But the advancing tide destroyed this hasty and imperfect sepulchre; and notwithstanding that they carried the body out to sea, in order that all evidence might be lost, Providence so directed that it was again cast on shore on the very spot of the murder. Public indignation was now directed against the Mures, and Bannatyne in his turn became the object of their fears. After an unsuccessful attempt to destroy this new evidence of their crime, they were eventually convicted by Bannatyne's confession of the whole affair, and executed amidst general execration.*

Sir Archibald, grandson of Sir Thomas Kennedy, was a vigorous persecutor of the Presbyterians during the reigns of the last two of the Stuarts; but he fell into discredit after the Revolution; and was more than once, it is said, driven to seek shelter in the coves under his own castle. The Countess of Eglintoun, to whom Allan Ramsay dedicated his 'Gentle Shepherd,' was a daughter of this nobleman. She was equally distinguished for her loveliness, taste and refinement. The Coves of Culzean are mentioned by Burns in his 'Halloween,' as being "famed in country story as a favourite haunt of fairies." They are situated in the rock underneath the castle, and are six in number, some of them communicating with each other.

followed: a lover was necessary as a relief to matrimonial monotony. Sir John Faa, of Dunbar, a former suitor, was found to supply every quality that least resembled those of the husband, and which, as a natural consequence, was most calculated to secure the affection of the wife. Then comes the crisis of the drama. The knight takes advantage of the absence of the old earl to seek the presence of the young countess. He arrives at Cassilis Castle, a massive old tower on the banks of the Doon, four miles from Maybole, and appears before the gates, surrounded by a faithful band of supporters of the troubadour school, combining all that is gentlemanlike, courteous, and unprincipled -the manners of Chesterfield with the morals of Jack Sheppard. Whether

[ocr errors]

"They cuist the glamourye ower her,"

as stated in the ballad, or whether love supplied a stronger spell which enabled her to recognize them through the sylvan disguise which they had adopted is uncertain; but there is no doubt that the lady consented to elope. Their horses, however, appear to have had a difficult journey-probably owing to "the course of true love" being in its proverbial condition; and the consequence was the swift pursuit and ignominious capture of the whole party by the earl and his infuriated followers. The scene of this catastrophe was a ford over the Doon, not far from the castle, still called the 'Gipsies' Steps.' The delinquents were immediately brought back to the castle; and Sir John and his adherents were at once hanged on the 'Dule Tree,'a splendid plane, which yet flourishes on a mound in front of the gate; and which was the earl's gallows

MAYBOLE-The Legend of Johnnie FAA. Maybole occupies a favourable position on the south side of a gently ascending hill, about four miles northeast of Kirkoswald. Its present characteristics are directly opposed to every idea of either comfort, clean-in-ordinary, as the name testifies. The unfortunate liness, elegance, and taste; its only redeeming qualities are contained in association and reminiscence; for it was once not only the winter residence of many of the noble families of Carrick, but it enjoyed high legal importance from the establishment in the town of the Court of Bailliery for the district. Its prosperity, however, like all its principal buildings, has fallen into decay.

The tall stiff building, which may be seen at the east end of the town, was once the seat of the Cassilis family. It is perhaps the most interesting as it is the most perfect of the winter residences still in existence. The building-which is still known in the neighbourhood as the Castle'-derives some little interest from being connected with the story contained in the popular ballad of 'Johnnie Faa.' According to this veritable authority (it is however just possible that the author may have taken out too extensive a poetic licence) it appears that John the sixth earl of Cassilis-of whom we have before spoken had married Lady Jane Hamilton, a daughter of the first earl of Haddington. The marriage seems to have been one of interest and • The old place of execution may still be seen at Maybole: it bears the appropriate designation of Gallow Hill. † 'New Statistical Account of Scotland.'

countess was compelled by her husband to behold this specimen of the "wild justice of revenge" from an adjacent window. The room in question is still called the Countess's Room.' After a short confinement there, the house belonging to the family at Maybole was fitted up for her reception, by the addition of a projecting staircase, upon which were carved the effigies of her lover and his band. She was there confined for the rest of her life: the earl, in the mean time, evincing his courage by contracting a second marriage. The effigies of the gypsies are very minute; the head of Sir John being distinct from the rest by being larger, and more lachrymose in expression.

A portion of the collegiate church, founded by Gilbert Kennedy of Dunure, in the fifteenth century, still remains in the centre of the town. And in another part is still to be seen the place where John Knox and Quintin Kennedy, abbot of Crossraguel, held their celebrated disputation. At that time it was the abode of the provost of the town: it has since subsided into an inn, which any may discover by asking, as we did, for the 'Red Lion.' In honour of this event-not the establishment of the inn, but the holding of the disputation-a 'Knox Club' has been formed in Maybole, and at its triennial festival are

« PreviousContinue »