The approach to the Priory is from the west, by a gateway of square form. From this entrance, on each side, a strong double wall extends to the rocks on the sea-shore, which, from this great height, were at one time supposed inaccessible. The gate with its walls was fortified by a deep outward ditch, over which there was a drawbridge, defended by moles on each side. The tower comprehended an outward and interior gateway, the inner of which was defended by a portcullis. This tower has been modernized, and converted into a barrack, in which, during the late war, four hundred men were accommodated. On passing the gateway, the view towards the sea is crowded with the august ruins of the Priory. On the south side, adjoining the wall, which stands on the brink of the cliff, are several vaulted chambers-one of which is supposed to have been the kitchen. At the west extremity of the ruins is a gateway of circular arches. The west gate of the Priory Church, of early pointed architecture, still remains. The east wall forms a beautiful feature of the ruins, and contains lancet windows, the loftiest about twenty feet high, richly ornamented with rosework and zigzag ornaments. The architecture through the whole of this part is singularly light and elegant. which was probably erected about the middle of the fifteenth century. The original length of the Priory building was 279 feet, breadth of the nave at the west and the oldest part twenty-six feet; the length of the transept was seventy-nine feet; the dimensions of the tower, which was square, twenty feet; the choir and east end were thirty-one feet. Tynemouth Priory is placed on a steep promontory, on the west or Newcastle side of which is the Prior's Haven, constituting a most excellent bathing place; and on the other the short sands. Towards the south, on the opposite side of the mouth of the Tyne, are the Herd Sands, on which many ships have been wrecked. Indeed all this part of the coast is most dangerous during north-east winds. It is not long since that nearly twenty vessels, of different sizes, were driven ashore near Tynemouth, and in a short time broken to pieces. Light-houses have been erected at Tynemouth and Shields, and we believe that attempts are to be made to improve the entrance to the harbour, by removing part of the dangerous shoal of rocks called the Black Middens. Tynemouth, has, during the last few years, increased greatly in importance. Public buildings and institutions are being established; the baths and hotels have been improved; there is a railway from Newcastle, which in the summer months, brings a large and fashionable company to this delightful and convenient watering-place. From this spot we may continue our journey northwards either by sea or land. There are weekly communications between Newcastle, and Edinburgh, by steam-boat, and in the seasons the London and Edinburgh, as well as the Aberdeen, and Inverness steamers, weather permitting, call for passengers. Our further progress being by rail, we retrace our steps to Newcastle. Beneath the centre window, at the east end, is a doorway, leading to the oratory of St. Mary. On each side of this door is a human head elaborately cut; the apartment within is eighteen feet six inches in length, twelve feet two inches in breadth, and eight feet high to the commencement of the arches. On the south side are three windows, and on the north side two others besides a circular window at the east-so elevated as to leave space for the altar beneath. On each side of the window is a figure kneeling, and two emblematical subjects commonly depicted with the Evangelists. The side walls are ornamented with pilasters, from whence spring the groins and arches of stone, which form various Along the dangerous coast between Tynemouth and intersections from the roof, the joinings of which are Leith are numerous places of traditionary interest and enriched with carved bosses. The circles contain romantic appearance, to which the railroad now affords sculptures of biblical subjects, which are all of good convenient access; but long before such assistance, the workmanship. Round each sculpture is a belt with a writer of this history has more than once started with sentence in old English characters, well raised, namely, staff in hand and knapsack properly disposed, from the "Sanct. Petrus ora p. nobis," &c., each varied by the ruins of Tynemouth towards the north. In this route name of the personage who is here represented. Many the traveller may see the deserted halls of Delaval other characteristic ornaments will be found inside the and the ancient Norman chapel, containing the crosslittle chapel. For many years this interesting relic has legged effigies of the ancients of that race, tattered been hidden from public view, and converted into a funeral-banners, armour, and quaint devices. Next magazine for gunpowder. We are glad to be able, how-comes Warkworth Castle and the Hermitage by the side ever, to state that this dangerous material has been re- of the beautiful river Coquet, imbedded amid the greenmoved, and the interior most carefully restored, underest and most luxuriant trees-a place delightful alike to the direction of John Dobson, Esq., the able architect, the historian, the artist, or disciple of good old Ísaać who has on several other occasions exerted his skill to Walton; then Mitford, and the black, dismal-looking preserve the ancient remains of Northumberland. The ruins of this venerable building have been sadly and wilfully demolished. Mackenzie, in his "History of Northumberland," states that large quantities of the stones were carted away to assist in the building of the new portions of North Shields. The Priory Church exhibited various periods of architecture, from the early Norman to the style of the little Chapel of St. Mary, rocks of Dunstanborough Castle; after, Bamborough Castle, and the fine remains of Lindisfarne, or Holy Island; and so on to Berwick; from thence to Fast, Dunbar, and Tantallon Castle, the Bass, and a host of other places well worthy the attention of the curious traveller. Proceeding by easy stages we pause at the Belford Station, on the Newcastle and Berwick railway to view Bamborough Castle; the railway passing within a short faced sheep-and the usual accompaniments of such distance of it. like groups were gathered in this place. This ancient fortress, the scene of so many events Bamborough is about five miles east by north from during the early years of English history, stands on Belford. The town chapel, which is dedicated to St. the crown of a high rock of a pyramidal figure, one of Aidan, is a curacy in the gift of the trustees of Lord the points projecting into the sea. The rock is beauti-Crewe. The most remarkable object in this church is a BAMBOROUGH CASTLE, FROM THE SEA. fully besprinkled with lichens of various tints. Seen from the now clean and neat-looking town of Bamborough, the appearance of the Castle is most striking-the square Norman Keep, similar to those at Newcastleupon-Tyne and Rochester, stands boldly, a conspicuous object, which is finely carried off (as the painters say) by the numerous, yet smaller portions of defence-built, in many instances, on the very edge of the precipice. During the last few years, the roughly-thatched cottages of the town or village of Bamborough, which formed artistically such a choice foreground to the picture, have been removed to make way for neater and more comfortable dwellings. This is a circumstance which, in spite of a partiality for rich colours and rugged foregrounds, gives us pleasure; and yet we cannot but look back to the old town with lingering recollectionsinasmuch as it was so perfect in its way, and harmonized so well with the surrounding country. During cross recumbent effigy, said by tradition to be that of Sir Launcelot du Lac. The town of Bamborough was once a royal burgh, though all trace of this ancient magnificence is now demolished. It sent two members to the twenty-third Parliament of Edward I. In King Edward III's time, it contributed one vessel to the expedition against Calais. In 1137, during the reign of Henry I., a monastery was founded at Bamborough for Canons Regular, of the Order of St. Austin. The site of this monastery with its possessions, &c., was granted by Henry VIII. to John Forster. Leland speaks of a college a little without Bamborough. This was a religious house, founded by Henry III. Bamborough was a very extensive deanery, comprehending a tract from Berwick to Kirk-Newton, including Norham. In a curious book, containing the names and crimes of people in Northumberland who had incurred the punishment of excommunication, and were presented to the Consistory Court of Arches at Durham, are the following entries:-"Bamborough, May 21st, 1681.-Presented, Thomas Anderson, of Swinhoe, for playing on a bag-pipe before a bridegroom on a Sunday, and not frequenting the church, and for not receiving the holy sacrament." "Eliza Mills, for scolding and drying fish on the Lord'sday. William Young, of BAMBOROUGH CASTLE. the time of the north country fairs, Bamborough, at the | Budle, a common swearer," Signed by the Churchday to which we allude, afforded material for many wardens. animated and singular pictures-when troops of "muggers" or gipsies with their camps and wares-Scotch and Cheviot drovers with their black cattle and black Leaving the pretty little town, and walking round the base of the rocks on which the old Castle stands, the visitor is struck with wonder at the assistance which sick, and protection, so far as it is possible, to the seafarer on this dangerous coast, The estates bequeathed by Lord Crewe for the above purposes were valued, in 1803, at nearly £9,000; and have no doubt by this time greatly increased. The property of the charity is vested in trustees who, for the time being, hold certain offices in Durham Cathedral, and who have generally devoted themselves in a praise-worthy manner to further the intentions of the founder. The upper part of the great Norman Keep contains an ample granary, from whence the poor, in times of scarcity, are supplied on low terms. Mackenzie, in his "History of Northumberland," published in 1825, says nature has given to man; and at each step the lover | an establishment for the purpose of giving food to the of the picturesque will stop and admire. At the north-hungry, instruction to the ignorant, assistance to the east side are the "Sally-port stairs," a rugged and dangerous pass, where many a fearful struggle has taken place, and which is the only mode of access to the fortress on this side. From the Castle to the north, reaching to Budle Bay, the beach is formed of hard sand, broken here and there by lines of rocks which form little havens, excellently adapted for the purposes of bathing. Although the walk along these sands is most pleasant (made more so by the varied views of Bamborough and Lindisfarne Priory, which the change of position is constantly giving), we will at present pass in front of the Castle from the sea. Some idea of the grandeur of this scene may be formed by an examination of our engraving. In calm summer "There is a meal market and grocer's shop, opened weather, the view towards the sea is delightful-the every Tuesday and Friday for the benefit of the indusnumerous vessels passing to and fro coming so near the trious poor. The meal is sold at reduced prices, and shore that the voices of the mariners can be distinctly the groceries at prime cost. As the extension of the heard the picturesque scenery enlivened by flocks of charity is not limited to any fixed distance of place, the sea-birds. Passing round to the south-west side is the annual average number of persons upon the list, as parmain entrance, in fact the only way by which large taking of those charities, is about 1300; but in times bodies of men could be admitted. This narrow path is of particular scarcity the number is much increased. defended by all the best methods of former days. A considerable distribution of beef is made at ChristPassing through the varied arches, and strong, yet mas to the poor inhabitants of Bamborough. An intime-worn walls, the visitor-although somewhat out of firmary is also established, in which many thousands of breath by travelling up the steep ascent-enters the indigent and diseased objects have been relieved. In castle yard with more ease than 10,000 sturdy foes of addition to the above provisions, there is a large library the warder would have done in the olden time. Having appropriated to the use of the neighbourhood." passed the outer barriers, we are enabled to appreciate By will, the benevolent Bishop also provided prothe large proportions of the Keep, and the great extent tection against the dangers of the sea. At all seasons, of the various offices. Passing thence to the entrance on a high point of the cliff, watchers are placed to of the Castle, which is said to be partly formed of the give notice to strange ships which may get amongst the Saxon building-a matter, however, of much question numerous hidden rocks which lie between the Farne -we proceed towards the top, viewing on the way the Islands. In time of storms and mist, bells are rung, curious font of the Saxon chapel of Bamborough, and signal guns are fired, and the best means used to tapestried chambers, and the places applied to charitable save life. Should the wrecked crews of vessels fortuuse-to which we will afterwards more particularly refer. nately reach the shore, by means of the brave and ready From the summit of the great tower there is an ex- help of the Bamborough or North Sunderland fishertensive prospect both towards the sea and land. Look-men, they are speedily and hospitably received in the ing towards the sea we discover the whole group of grim-looking and ancient fortress, where, at a moment's Fern Islands, and the Castle and lands of Holy Island, notice, every necessary is provided. If it is needed, and more distant, the fortifications of Berwick-upon- the sufferers are retained until their recovery, and proTweed. On the right hand is Dunstanborough Castle, behind which are promontories, creeks, and bays beautifully intermingled, the extensive view terminated by the ruins of Tynemouth. On the land side are tracts of well cultivated fields, skirted by heathy moors and the Cheviot hills. It is altogether a charming scene, naturally beautiful and abounding in historical and other associations. Bamborough castle was the scene of many stirring events, and was finally forfeited by Sir Thomas Foster for his share in the rebellion of 1715. After many vicissitudes, the castle and estates were purchased by Lord Crewe, the maternal uncle of the late proprietor, and by the will of his descendant Lord Crewe, the kind-hearted and amiable Bishop of Durham, the Castle of Bamborough, which for more than a thousand years, had been principally devoted to the purposes of bloodshed and destruction, has been converted into vided with money and what is needful to enable them to reach their native ports. Even with the termination of life, the care of the Bishop has not ceased, for he has ordered that the dead shall be provided with coffins, and be buried at the expense of the foundation. Space prevents us from mentioning many a touching scene which has been witnessed by the dispensers of this part of Lord Crewe's bounty. Early in the month of December, 1774, many vessels were wrecked on the coasts of Northumberland and Durham. The sands for about a mile in extent, between North Sunderland and Bamborough Castle, were covered with wrecks and dead bodies. One of the vessels lost here was the "Liddell," of Newcastle, and all hands perished. Another was the "Peggy," of Leith, from London, which, with the goods, was valued at £15,000, and several passengers, all of whom, with the crew, perished. The whole coast, from the Tyne to the Tweed, exhibited a most terrible scene of desolation. Among the bodies driven on shore was that of a lady, with five diamond rings on her fingers and gold earrings in her ears. On this sad occasion the utility of Lord Crewe's charity, in the appropriation of Bamborough Castle to the use of the public, was most conspicuous. The Castle was open to every person who went in search of his property; and, to the honour of the gentlemen all along the coast, they not only exerted themselves in assisting the sufferers, but preserved such goods as were saved from being pilfered. The following anecdote was some time since related to us by an inhabitant of Bamborough, now dead : "In one of those storms," he said, "so fatal and, unfortunately, so frequent, a ship was wrecked in spite all the warnings and other means we could use. By the exertions of the fishermen, who, unmindful of the waves, launched their cobles out to sea, the lives of several persons were saved. Amongst these was a foreign gentleman of rank. His young wife, at the time of the sinking of the ship, had been parted from him by the force of the sea, and had disappeared. His distress was dreadful. The kind attentions of Dr. Thorpe, the then resident, and his family, were of no avail in checking his grief. During the night, however, the carriage of one of the neighbouring gentlemen arrived at the Castle, and in the carriage the beautiful wife of the distressed gentleman, who had been rescued by some North Sunderland fishermen, and taken to that port. The joy shown by all, particularly those most interested, may be better imagined than described. The sailors, with the characteristic forgetfulness of danger which is so well known, were not amongst the least pleased; and although they had been so recently snatched from the jaws of death, sang merry songs after the reunion, until late into the night." The town is well sheltered from the bleak winds, and the sandy beach is excellent. The views as we have already mentioned, are beautiful; and in the summer time, many a day may be pleasantly spent in fishing or sailing to Lindisfarne, or to the Fern Islands, where will be found the cell of St. Cuthbert, the nests of the eider-duck, and strange perpendicular rocks, inhabited by thousands of various sea-birds. The light-house in which Grace Darling lived is also an object which will no doubt attract many visitors. The heroism of Grace has been made the subject of illustration by poets and artists, and will always be a fertile theme of admiration. Resuming our journey, we pursue our northward course, and in a short time we reach the southern bank of the Tweed, which river is crossed by a high-level bridge, similar to that of Newcastle, but of smaller proportions. At Berwick-upon-Tweed the neutral ground is reached, which is neither Scottish nor English, but has frequently been the bone of contention with both. Happily for both countries the ancient rivalry between them has assumed a more peaceful character, and is now confined to the best crops, the most skillful cultivation, and the best breed of stock. Any impartial judge, who will join us in our autumnal ride along the coast, by the North British railway, will assuredly confess that such crops as he will see are not to be surpassed. |