the benefits of education to the youth of both sexes -and by instructing adults in the useful arts and the beneficial employment of time, Roman Catholics may be converted to the Protestant faith-if these be the sole objects of the Achill mission, the endeavours of Mr. Nangle and his coadjutors must be considered as worthy of all praise.

Having procured a car I proceeded direct for Clydagh House, where I now am, the seat of our excellent friend, Sir George Staunton, situated on the eastern shore of Lough Corrib, about thirteen miles from Tuam. We drove through the little town of Headford, the chief proprietor of which is Mr. St. George, who is the nearest neighbouring gentleman to Clydagh. Headford is certainly a more tidylooking little town than any I had passed through since leaving the province of Ulster. In lieu of the eternal dunghill before the door, some of the cottages could boast even of a piece of ground in front, with roses climbing up the side of the walls. Another unusual feature in this town of Headford is the enormous square chimney-stacks, rising out of several of the thatched roofs, apparently of ancient structure, and sufficiently numerous to give a peculiar character to the place. After leaving Headford, the road passed over a dreary, desolatelooking country, portioned off into small patches with high stone walls, loosely placed together, which continued until I approached a wood sweep

ing down to the shore of Lough Corrib, upon the bank of which stands Clydagh House.

I was not sorry to find myself comfortably housed and most kindly welcomed by Mrs. Lynch, whose husband you are aware is unfortunately absent from home, so that I shall be deprived of much valuable information, which his long residence in this part of the country would have enabled him to afford me.

216

LETTER XII.

CONNAMARA.

Cross Lough Corrib-Oughterarde-Martin's Gatehouse-Flynn's half-way House-Miss Flynn-Arrival of Company-Failure in getting up a Dance-Ballinahinch-Roundstone and Biterbuy Bays-Mountains of Maam Turk and the Twelve Pins -Clifden-Journey to Lenane-The Killery-Residence of Big Jack Joyce-now a Member of a Temperance SocietyThe use of Whiskey necessary-Address to-Singing party— Trait of kind feeling in Joyce-His anxiety to give his children a good education-Origin of the Joyces-Joyce's KitchenDetention by the Weather-Further Conversation-Departure for Maam Lodge-Wretched State of the Peasantry-in their Dress and Hovels-Recross Lough Corrib from Maam Lodge -Arrival at Clydagh.

Clydagh House, 19th September, 1835. I HAD arranged with Mrs. Lynch to set out early in the morning for Connamara; and accordingly she had kindly ordered the four-oared boat to be ready to cross Lough Corrib, and to remain at my disposal. The weather was as usual wet, "very" (as Fanny Kemble would say), and unsettled till towards twelve o'clock, when it began to improve a little. I therefore walked down to the water-side, taking with me nothing but a carpet-bag, containing such things as I might want for a two days' absence.

The distance across to Oughterarde may be about seven or eight miles, which our boatmen pulled in about an hour and a half, the wind being against us. I acted as coxswain on the occasion, and acquitted myself so well, that I only scraped her bottom once by taking her over a sunken rock, in consequence of keeping too near a reef which ran out from one of the small islands. Oughterarde is well situated on the banks of a small river or creek, about a mile from the shore of the lake: it is navigable by boats to within a few hundred yards of the town, through which it passes in a clear, limpid, gurgling stream, issuing from a chain of small lakes, and falling in a succession of rapids to the plain. At this spot, on a green slope of the right bank, stands the church, which the rapid stream appears to be undermining, and likely, ere long, to sweep away. Here, too, on the opposite bank, stands a little lodge, built by the late Dick Martin of Galway, as he was familiarly called, and in which he spent much of his time. It is known by the name of the Gatehouse, at which his property commences, and whence one may drive six-andtwenty miles on end to Ballinahinch Castle, the family seat, without passing out of it. It was the boast of Martin, or it was said perhaps for him, that "the king's writ would not run in Connamara;" but if such was ever the case, the cause of its lameness has long ceased to exist.

L

The

There is an excellent barrack at Oughterarde, at present, however, unoccupied. There is also a neat little Catholic chapel, built of limestone, which was erected by subscription; and no less than three hotels, the interior of none of which did I see, as I proceeded direct to the residence of Mr. Boyce, who is married to a sister of Mr. Lynch. family pressed me kindly to pass some time with them, but I was compelled to make my usual excuse of want of time. Mr. Boyce exerted himself to get me a good horse and car for Ballinahinch, but I believe there was but one available horse to be had in the town; at least, notwithstanding all his intercession, it was a sorry brute that was at last brought out for me; and the car, judging from its rickety state, had, like the poor animal seen better days: they were somewhat akin to the king's writ-they would not run. As I intended, however, to go no farther that night than to Flynn's, the half-way house, I concluded they would serve my turn. The two sloping sides of the hills, between which the first part of the road was carried along the enclosed valley, were extremely barren, but their wild and lonely character, and the idea of this route being but little frequented by strangers, gave to the country an interest which otherwise it could lay no claim to. But as I journeyed onwards, I hailed the delightful prospect of soon entering among the mountains of