always fine views of the Dingle Mountains, and every now and then caught a distant glimpse of M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, the end of my pilgrimage. At Abbey Odorney is a rather pictu

:

resque ruin here I came into the mail road, which thence becomes good, and soon reached Tralee, leaving a little to my right Ardfert's ancient town, with Ballyheigh Bay and Castle.

Tralee, the present capital of Kerry, is well situated at the foot of some lofty mountains, at about two miles from the sea, with which it has a good canal communication. It is rather a considerable town, belonging almost entirely to the Denny family and I was glad to remark evident symptoms of improvement in numerous new houses and streets. I know not whether there be a better inn in this city; but I can at least warn my readers that the one to which I went, O'Sullivan's, is a very indifferent house.

It had been my original intention to proceed from Tralee to Dingle: but I was induced to postpone my visit to this latter place, by hear

JOURNEY TO KILLARNEY.

3

ing that there was to be a stag-hunt the next day at Killarney. The report proved afterwards to be unfounded: but I willingly caught at it to gratify my longing desire to see these famous lakes, without wasting any more time upon spots of inferior interest.

The distance from Tralee to Killarney is called twenty miles: I soon, however, discovered that they were English miles, which mine host had forgotten to specify, in making his bargain about the price of the car. Eleven Irish make fourteen English miles; which latter, unfortunately for the traveller, are getting very much into fashion in Ireland. The road and my horse being equally good, I performed the distance within three hours; first passing through an open and boggy plain, in which stands Castle Island, once the capital of the county; and next crossing the river Main, where, I was informed, good salmon-fishing may be had after a flood; but it is much poached.

HEGARTY'S HOTEL.

My eyes and my thoughts, however, were exclusively directed towards the mountains, whose base, I knew, was laved by Killarney's Lakes; and especially to the serrated ridge of M'Gillicuddy's Reeks. As they gradually assumed more palpable and distinct forms, I confess I felt a feverish anxiety on thus rapidly approaching what I had always been taught to consider the perfection of British scenery. At length, about two miles from Killarney, I reached the summit of a hill, from which I obtained the first view of the Lower Lake and

its surrounding mountains. I had scarcely time to take a glance at it: and was hurriedly striving to seize the various objects of beauty and interest that successively developed themselves, when I found I was already in the town, where I went, by previous recommendation, to Hegarty's, the Hibernian Hotel.

The Kenmare Arms is justly esteemed the head inn, and in some respects is the best : but, in point of civility, attention, and quietness, I

HEGARTY'S HOTEL.

5

had every reason to be satisfied with Hegarty's during three weeks that I lodged there. Neither did I find the charges so immoderate as I had been led to expect: they are a little higher than the usual prices of the country, but not much so.

It being my intention to remain some time at Killarney, I was in no hurry to engage any of the guides or boatmen, who offered themselves by hundreds for my patronage. But, wishing first to form an unbiassed opinion of the general effects of the scenery, before examining it in detail, I strolled out, the morning after my arrival, quietly by myself, to the ruined old church of Aghadoe, which is perched on the top of a ridge about two or three miles to the north-west of the town.

This was, perhaps, the best point I could have chosen for the purpose I had in view. It commands the whole of the Lower Lake, with its numerous islands, and the hills that encircle it; the range of Mangerton, and the far moun

6

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

tains to the eastward; and, to the westward, the noble ridges of the Reeks. The situation of the Middle Lake is distinctly seen; and the splendid Turk Mountain, which rises from its shores, is one of the most striking features of the landscape. The long channel which leads to the Upper Lake may also be traced, with the Eagle's Nest, and Crommiglaun, on either side guarding the pass; but the Upper Lake itself is too much embosomed in the mountains to be at all seen from this side. Aghadoe church, therefore, or rather a point about two hundred yards beyond it, is a most favourable position for obtaining a general idea of the scenery round Killarney. I remained there at least two or three hours, getting off by heart (if I may so say) all the beautiful features and proportions of the scene.

And greatly was I delighted. I must, however, own—and I now speak after a three weeks' familiarity with all its picturesque beauties— that the first impression on my mind, as on