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CHAPTER XIV.

OF RASPBERRIES.

Different Sorts of Rafpberries; and of Propagating, Planting,
Watering, Staking and Pruning them.

RASPBERRIES are a very useful fruit for the table; ́ for
preferving, for making of jam, fauce, &c. and continue a long
time in bearing.

The Raspberry belongs to the fifth order of Linnæus's
twelfth Class, Icofandria Polygynia, and is a native of Eng-
land.

The following are the Sorts cultivated in this Country.
Early White.

Double bearing White.
Large Common White.
Large Red.

Large Red Antwerp.
Large White Antwerp.
Smooth Cane Double-bearing.
Woodward's new Raspberry.

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Of Propagating, Planting, and Pruning Raspberries.

Rafpberries are raised from fuckers and layers.

They should be planted in a piece of ground by themselves,, and (except the Early White) at the distance of about fix feet from row to row, and four feet in the rows.

The ground fhould first be well trenched and dunged, before the Rafpberries are planted. Make choice of the strongest and fineft plants that come out from the fides of the ftools, where they have been standing for fome years; or encourage the strongest plants that come out betwixt the rows after digging, which fhould be done annually. In. digging the ground, you will frequently happen to cut the roots with the spade, which will occafion a great number of final plants to come up; of these select the strongest and fineft, and hoe up all the fuperfluous ones. But I prefer laying down fome of the strongest outside shoots in the montli of March; as by the following Autumn they will make fine roots, and may be planted out in a quarter or piece of ground where you intend them to remain. These will not be fo liable to throw out fuckers as thofe which are produced from. fuckers.

When you plant out fresh pieces of Rafpberries, it should! be done in moist weather, as the roots are very delicate, and liable to be hurt when expofed to a dry air. If, however, they are planted in dry weather, take care to moisten the roots with water, and cover them with wet litter, or leaves, during the time of planting.

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In planting, open a trench with the fpade along the line where the fuckers or layers are to be planted; cut off all the fmall fibry roots with a knife, leaving only the ftronger roots; put them into the trench, and cover them with fome earth; then water them well, and throw the remainder of the earth over them, letting them remain till you have finished planting the piece; then, where you first began to plant, begin and tread the ground with your foot as hard as you can along each of the trenches, and in the fame direction as you planted : then with a spade level all the ground fmooth, and run it over with a rake, taking off any ftones and rubbish that may

be left on the furface.

In dry weather, the plants fhould be watered two or three times a week till they have taken root. It will be neceffary to stake the Antwerp, and other strong-growing forts, with ftout ftakes; then run a couple of fmall rails at top, to tie the branches to; which will prevent their being broken by the wind, or beaten down by the rain. The Early White and fmaller forts may be plaited together at top, tying them round with the fmall yellow willow, which will keep them together. Some of the Early Rafpberries may be planted between the trees on a Weft afpect, to produce early fruit before thofe in the quarters come in. The Antwerp will thrive exceedingly well against North walls or palings, and will produce late crops. Such as are planted against walls or palings fhould

be tacked to them.

Where find any you of the fmall Red and White Rafpberries, destroy them, and plant the following forts in their room; viz. the Large Red, the Smooth Cane Double-bearing, the Large Red and White Antwerps, the Large Common

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White, the Double-bearing White, and Woodward's New Raspberry.

Some prefer pruning Raspberries in Autumn, a practice of which I by no means approve. As they bear the fruit on the wood of the preceding year, they are very liable to be killed by the frost in severe winters; but, by deferring the pruning till the month of February, you will have great choice of fine wood for bearing the following Summer; remembering to root out, or cut down, all the wood that bore fruit the preceding year, which generally dies; felecting only from five to feven of the most vigorous and strong shoots from the last year's wood, to bear fruit the enfuing feason. These shoots may be pruned to the length of three or four feet according to their ftrength, if they are of the Smooth Cane Doublebearing fort (which generally bears a fecond crop in Autumn, and will in fine feafons continue bearing from June to November); but, if the large Antwerp, the shoots should be left five or fix feet long.

The Early White, which never grows fo ftrong as the above forts, fhould be fhortened to two feet and a half, or three feet. These fhould be planted in rows about three feet diftant from each other, and two feet from plant to plant in the rows; always remembering to keep them clear of fuckers, and to cut out the dead, or last year's wood, as before directed; making choice of the strongest shoots for bearingwood. But be careful not to cut off the little spurs on the fides, which bear the fruit.

Rafpberries will continue in bearing five or fix years; by which time you should have a fresh plantation to succeed them. The young plants will bear fome fruit the first year,

and

and come into full bearing the fecond year after planting. If they be suffered to remain more than five or fix years on the fame ground, they will degenerate and bear fmall fruit. Care should be taken not to leave above eight or ten of the strongest shoots, rubbing off or pulling up all the fuperfluous ones; and to keep the ground well hoed and clear of weeds between the rows.

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