order to compel the English to call for French wines (which we generally did); but I believe that they are not conscious of their acidity; and indeed many of the English seem to be reconciled to them, as I observed, at various places, that we were the only persons who called for other wines, though some English noblemen were present. On my part, at least, this was not affectation, as even French wines (at least in my own country) disagree with me.

"Notwithstanding Mr. Murray's assertion to the contrary, I never met with good tea in Switzerland, and only once indeed (at Brussels) on the Continent. They have improved (at least, I suppose they think so) upon the English in the mode of taking it. They have a little silver cullender, or strainer, suspended by a chain from the spout, which we generally removed, as it only swung in the air or knocked against the tea-cup. I concluded that this custom originated from their not having a strainer in their tea-pots; but on asking the garçon whether they had one, he assured me that such was the case.

"You seldom see a tea-urn, or if you do, it is little like our own. When it makes its appearance, you may well wish for a kettle, as, instead of a heater, they put charcoal into its cavity, which throws off more sparks than heat; and if you have a kettle and lamp, the spirit of wine (even if it were so before) will not keep it boiling. I am sorry to see the kettle and lamp introduced into our own country, as I am afraid it will lead the way to such improvements as render a thing useless.

"By the way of compliment, I suppose, we were more than once presented with bif steaks. They had not the least morsel of fat on them; though, to say the truth, they were not tough, having been stewed, perhaps, instead of grilled. Fried potatoes, which I thought completely English, are great favourites with the Swiss. This, perhaps, might also be out of compliment to our country. They seem to eat salad with every thing but their cheese.

"A table d'hôte generally consists of three courses, or 'services,' as they call it. They place each on the table, that the guest, I sup

pose, may make his selection; but most of his meat grows cold before he can eat it, as the dishes are taken round in succession to each guest. And before this is done, the poultry, and such joints as require carving, are placed by the garçon on a board, and mangled with a chopping knife; so that, in addition to your not knowing what parts you take, the meat frequently possesses a greater variety of flavour than the cook intended; though this admits of almost every possible variety that can be compounded by a union not only of sweet and sour, but by every possible combination of vegetables, condiments, and spices.

"The garçons, I suppose from habit, bear with imperturbable patience the toil of changing plates, and wiping your knives and forks. By way of favour to the English, they sometimes change them both; but, as they are deficient in cutlery and abound in plate, they often take off the spoon and leave the knife, even at times without wiping it at all. If persons are staying at the house, and, having ordered other than the ordinary wine, leave part of it, they find it at the

next meal with a collar round the neck of the bottle, containing the number of his apartment. Within this collar, also, which is open at the side like that which is used by attorneys' clerks in engrossing parchment, the napkin that had before been used by the guest is folded; and this curious ensemble is placed on the table to secure his seat, which is generally successive, according to his arrival at the hotel."

Having given you these extracts from Mr. Bray's note-book, I must now conclude with the assurance that

I am, my dear Brother,

Ever affectionately yours,

ANNA ELIZA BRAY.

à-Banc. - Departure for Chamouny.

Chede. The Forclaz. Servoy.

A Char

Lake of

Pont Pelis

--

sier. The ruined Castle. The Bridge. The Torrent. Terrific Ascent of the Montets. Awe and Sublimity of the Scene. The Dôme de Goûter. Descending the Montets. Village of Ouches. Valley of Chamouny.

- Torrents.

Rivers.

ciers. The Taconey. Moraine of the Glaciers. away by an Avalanche. -Bridge. - The Prieure.

-

The

Tavern.- Mont Blanc.- Goats.- Cattle.-Mules. -Peasantry.-The word "Alp;" its true Signification. Guides and Mules. Set out on the Ascent of the Montanvert. The Ascent; its Scenery, Characteristics, and Adventures.-Michel Devouassoux; his Character and Conversation. The Way continued. La Fontaine de Caillet. Goats. Singular Adventure. The Mule; its Instinct and Habits. The Magnificence of each Mountains. Snow. surrounding Object.