OF POPULAR

LITERATURE

Science and Arts.

CONDUCTED BY WILLIAM AND ROBERT CHAMBERS.

No. 131.

SATURDAY, JULY 5, 1856.

AT HOME IN ITALY. I was invited to her house in the ancient and aristocratic city of Macerata, by the Marchesa Gentilina Marziani, a lady well known not only in the provincial circles of the Marche, but in those of Rome, where, in the lifetime of her first husband, who held one of those lucrative monopolies of the necessities of life which the pontifical government farms out to its adherents, she had occupied rather a conspicuous position. As a sort of protest against her sexagenarian lord's principles and party, to which and all else pertaining to him she had vowed opposition, the fair Gentilina delighted in assembling numbers of artists and men of letters, both native and foreign, under her roof, where she promoted the discussion of political topics, and the free expression of opinion, by a hardihood and boldness of speech that none of the other members of the coterie would have dared to imitate, and on which the protection of her uncle, a wealthy cardinal, alone enabled her to venture with impunity.

PRICE 11d,

which form the noble background to most Italian scenery. Even at that early period of the year, the country through which we passed was remarkable for its beauty and fertility; but the marchesa talked too much and too energetically to permit me to observe anything in detail; so that it was fortunate I was enabled some months later again to see, and thoroughly enjoy, what the natives, with pardonable pride, designate as 'the Garden of Italy.'

We travelled in the marchesa's carriage, a party of four, or rather five; for, in addition to her, her goodhumoured spouse, and myself-the three padronithere was the cameriera, whom they would have thought it most inhuman to have seated on the outside, and the parrot. This last occupied a great circular tin cage, and wore a dejected aspect, which perhaps arose from jealousy at his mistress engrossing the whole of the conversation, though the marchese attributed it to indisposition, and vainly strove to cheer him by proffering cakes and sugar, or his own finger to be pecked at, thus beguiling the tediousness of the well-known road; When, after many weary years of wedlock, the while his wife, charmed at having a new listener, held death of the old appaltatore left her at liberty to form forth about the abuses of the government, the frauds less irksome ties, the choice of the buxom and well- of Cardinal Antonelli-the prime-minister-the weakendowed widow, amidst a crowd of aspirants, fell upon ness of the pope, and the insolence of the Austrians, the Marchese Alessandro Marziani, a young noble of requiring nothing beyond a shrug of the shoulders, Macerata, several years her junior, and with appa- or an affirmative groan, when she appealed to her rently little but his good looks and old name to recom- husband to corroborate her statements. Every hour mend him. To universal surprise, the marriage proved at least there was a stoppage at the foot of some hill, The marchese looked on while cows or oxen were summoned from the nearest on the whole a happy one. his wife as a model of genius and wit; never questioned peasant's house, to assist the horses in dragging us up her opinions, though careful to avoid compromising these ascents, which for steepness exceed everything himself by uttering any of his own; and grateful for that can be imagined, except indeed the corresponding the support she furnished to the declining fortunes of precipitousness of the declivity on the other side. With this single drawback, the journey was very his house, and the grace with which she consented to reside several months of each year with his family-pleasant. We dined at Recanati, a very small but thus enabling him to pay that dutiful attention to his father's old age which Italians are so solicitous to discharge-shewed her a respect and esteem which amply atoned for the absence of shining qualities in himself.

ancient town, crowning an eminence, like most of the cities in this country which were built at a period when a position from whence a good view could be obtained of any advancing foe was an indispensable requisite for security; and here the parrot so far recovered his spirits, that the whole inn was thrown into ecstasy with his performances, which the marchesa, from being seriously occupied with partaking of needful refreshment, allowed him to exhibit without a competitor. The sala in which we took our repast was crowded with an admiring audience, the beggars who infested the courtyard and stairs having also crept in unreproved: and their comments and exMacerata is about forty miles distant from Ancona, clamations at every fresh proof of the pappagallo's the high-road to Rome, finely situated on the loquacity seemed to afford unqualified pleasure to loftiest point of a ridge of hills, running midway his owners, without any thought of offended dignity between the sea and the grand chain of Apennines at the intrusion-such as would have disturbed the

In one of the visits to Ancona, whither a natural desire for change used occasionally to lead her, I made the marchesa's acquaintance; and, through the same seeking for variety, she was doubtless prompted to the novel experiment of introducing the Signorina forestiera into the heart of her husband's family, moulded after the most approved fashion of ancient Italian households.

on

VOL. VI.

equanimity, and spoiled the digestion of British travellers-ever entering their minds.

It was night when we arrived at the Palazzo Marziani-a handsome pile of building, of a massive style of architecture, faced with large square slabs of marble, like the old Florentine palaces, wide balconies projecting from the windows, and a grand portico, surmounted by armorial bearings in alto rilievo, through which the carriage passed into a court that in olden time had evidently been surrounded by an open arcade, with a fountain in the centre. The interstices between the columns, however, as a daylight view revealed, had been filled up with brickwork; the fountain no longer played; and the grass sprouted up in tufts between the pavement, or waved in rank luxuriance amid the rich cornices of the façade.

On one side of this piazza were the stables-perceptible, alas! to other senses besides the ocular-and on the opposite one rose the staircase, in broad and easy flights, with marble busts of various ancestors of the family in niches upon each landing. The apartments of the marchesa, as wife of the eldest son, were upon the first floor, and thither were we lighted, with great jubilee and welcome, by an old white-headed man in plain clothes-the maestro di casa, whose real name had merged into that of Rococo-and one or two subordinates in livery-coats of faded blue and yellow, just like the lackeys who come forward upon the stage in Italian theatres to carry away the moss-grown seat upon which the rustic prima-donna has been reclining. The second brother, the Marchese Oliverotto Marziani, whose patronymic was a superfluity, inasmuch as I never heard him addressed by it; his wife, the Marchesa Silvia, a quiet little body, with two or three children clinging to her side, the proprietorship of whom alone enabled her to make head against the overwhelming supremacy of her sister-in-law Gentilina; the Marchesina Volunnia, the eldest daughter, unmarried, and with a great reputation for learning; and, finally, a very old man, with a quavering voice and infirm gait, appeared to greet our arrival. The brothers, both tall and handsome, fine specimens of the manly style of beauty of which this part of Italy retains the distinctive type, loudly kissed and brushed their black beards against each other with great affection, while the ladies embraced with clamorous demonstrations, but little warmth; and then, on the approach of his father, Alessandro hastening to meet him, bent over his hand, and raised it to his lips with an air of unaffected tenderness and respect. These salutations over, they all paid their compliments to the new-comer with great politeness, eyeing me all the time with very allowable curiosity, for I am sure it was the first occasion on which a foreigner and a heretic had ever come thus familiarly amongst them; after this, supper being announced, we all betook ourselves to that meal, descending the grand cold staircase, already described, to the eating-room, which was on the ground-floor, in the vicinity of the kitchen, and not particularly remote from the stable. We were here joined by a priest, Don Ciriaco, who lived in the house as a sort of secretary and companion to the old marchese or papà, as they all called him, and imparted the rudiments of Latin and the Catechism to the children. He was evidently in a very servile position, being treated with perfect indifference by all assembled, except the Marchesa Silvia, who now and then addressed to him a few words, though always with an implied and unquestioned sense of his inferiority, which reminded me of Macaulay's delineation of the footing of domestic chaplains in England at the close of the seventeenth century. Two of the children sat up to supper, one on each side of their mother, muffled in huge napkins tied round their chins, and completely engrossing her attention by the cutting up and preparing of their food.

I thought their presence at this meal was an indulgence conceded to celebrate their uncle and aunt's return, never dreaming that such a custom as infants of their tender age sitting up till past ten o'clock to eat heartily of soup, roast-meat, and salad-of which viands the repast consisted-could ever be habitual. Such, however, was the case; for no other reason, as the marchesa humorously confided to me, than its being in accordance with the practice of former days; which, to a mind so full of scruples as poor Silvia's, she added, were second only to the decrees of the Council of Trent or the dictates of her confessor. After hearing this, and ascertaining that in those families who partook of supper-some only indulging in one ample meal in the middle of the day-the custom of the children joining in it was very general, it was not difficult to account for the variety of ailments with which the rising generation seemed afflicted, more especially the vermicular affections-in all the varied phenomena of which, from hearing them so constantly discussed, I became quite a proficient.

Being tired with our long day's journey, we were glad to retire to rest; and I was conducted to my room by the marchesa and the erudite Volunnia, who, speedily found, was less occupied with lore than with the vanities and heart-burnings of her sex. My spinsterhood in this case, however, proved a passport to her affections: albeit nearly twenty years my senior, she took me to her heart, as her equal in age, and partner in misfortune-promising, as she kissed me at parting for the night, to summon me early in the morning, that she might have the pleasure of introducing me to her own apartments, books, and studies. The marchesa lingered for a few more words.

'I need not tell you, carina, that poor Volunnia is a character. In fact, this whole family are originals. Nature formed my Alessandro different from all the rest, and evidently broke the mould that he was cast in.-First of all,' she continued, raking up the embers in the scaldino over which she was warming her hands, 'there is that poor old papà, who, with his obstinacy and prejudice, has ruined himself by lawsuits. His celebrated processo against his brothers, I daresay you have already heard of: it lasted twenty-five years, because either side, whenever sentence was given in favour of its opponent, appealed to some other court, which, under our happy system, can annul the judgment previously pronounced. At last, this worse than siege of Troy drew near its close. The case had been brought before every tribunal in the Roman States, and was finally submitted by the last defeated party, papà's brothers, to the supreme court in Rome-the conclusive one of appeal in such instances. My Alessandro was there, awaiting the result, but comparatively with little anxiety, so confident was he of success. Poveretto, he was too good. Had he known me then, I would have taken care things should turn out differently! The night before the judgment was to be pronounced, he was privately warned that unless he offered a large bribe to one of the prelates of the Rota, before whom the suit had been pleaded, it would be given against him; that the other side had bid high, and all he could do was to outbuy them! "Bah! bah!" he said; "this monsignore whose influence will have so much weight with the other uditori in our cause to-morrow is above all venal motives: he is too high in the church." (He was one of those ecclesiastics, my dear, who wear violet stockings, and talk so sweetly to your fair compatriots in Rome.) "O no," he reasoned with his heart, da galant' uomo, "the thing is impossible: it is merely a trick of the enemy"-and so went to sleep without any misgiving. The next day'-snapping her fingers expressively-'he found out his mistake, and the famous causa was irrevocably lost! Poor old papà-they tell me he has never