members of the Society of Friends at Letterfrack. The settlement is a neat village, with shops, schools, &c., surrounded by a well-cultivated district, reclaimed and planted.

At Leenane we are in the midst of the glorious scenery of Killery Bay, where every tourist will be disposed to linger as long as he can. It is an arm of the sea, running ten miles between precipitous mountains, and not more than half a mile wide, the mountains descending almost perpendicularly to the water's side, and leaving room only for the road. One of the mountains-Muilrea-rises to the height of 2,688 feet, and Bengarm to 2,303. This lake-like bay wants only wood to make it surpass anything in Killarney, in point of beauty as well as grandeur, while the presence of the Atlantic, rushing with its stupendous might into the fiord, produces a rare combination of awe-inspiring sublimity. From the Leenane hotel excursions are made to Salrock, the seat of the late General Thompson, a charming spot; and to Delphin, the romantically situated lodge of the Hon. Mr. Plunket, at the end of Finlough; concerning which it has been said that if Connemara contained no other attraction, this would be worth a journey from London.

The road to the Maam Hotel runs through the glens between the Maam, Turk, and the Lugnabricka mountains, passing a waterfall, and the ancient burial place of the Joyces. From Leenane to Clifden the road skirts Kilemore Lake, through the Pass of Kilemore. This pass is about three miles in length, and shut in by mountains at each side. Here Mitchell Henry, Esq., of Manchester, M.P. for Galway, has erected a magnificent castle, surrounded by beautiful gardens and plantations, which forms a striking object—a fairy-like creation-presenting the contrast of modern civilization with the savage wildness of nature. The next resting-place on the road to where there is a hotel built by Mr. Nimmo, pears, the property of the Earl of Leitrim. are obtained from this point on the road to Cong, as well as on the road to Clifden. We may come to Galway either way. At Cong we shall find the steamer, and at Clifden Bianconi's car. There is a steamer from Cong to Galway daily in summer; whoever takes that trip should prepare

Cong is Maam, and now, it apVery fine views

himself for it, by reading Sir William Wilde's learned and beautifully illustrated work on Lough Corrib. Of Annakeen Castle, Sir William Wilde says-Perhaps there is not in the British Isles a similar example of such admirably constructed masonry, of its class and period. Some of the arches of the windows are circular, some pointed. The architecture of the castle may, with safety, be ascribed to a date five and a half centuries ago.' Ross Abbey, situated on the Black River, was founded about the middle of the fourteenth century, for the Franciscans. The total length of the church is 128 feet, and its breadth 20 feet.

Cong is a most interesting little town, at the head of Lough Corrib. The ruins of the Abbey, which were carefully preserved, and partially repaired, so as to prevent further decay, by the late Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness, proprietor of the town, will show what noble buildings were erected in these wild regions by the men who flourished in the old times.

Clifden, the capital of Connemara, is charmingly situated, sheltered among the mountains near the Atlantic shore, and surrounded with picturesque scenery. The Rev. Hyacinth Darcy, J.P., now rector of the parish, the former owner, is a public-spirited gentleman, who delighted in making improvements, and especially devoted himself to the education of the poor. The ancient seat of the Darcys, Clifden Castle, is worthy of a visit. Proceeding by mail-car to Galway (there are two cars daily-fare, 7s. 6d.), we soon reach Ballinahinch, the late domain of the benevolent family of the Martins, who, for several generations, possessed the entire district lying around—a district amounting to nearly 200,000 acres, and stretching over a space of 30 or 40 miles. Now that family are extinct, and, in the vicissitudes of fortune, the entire property has passed into the hands of the London Law and Life Insurance Company. On a small islet in the lake are the ruins of the keep of an ancient castle. The modern mansion is a very plain structure in the centre of the demesne. Near Ballinahinch we pass the road to

Roundstone, a distance of seven and a half miles. The road is on the south side of the Lough, and affords magnificent views. The small town is beautifully situated, close to the cliffs, over Roundstone Bay. There is a comfortable

hotel, a church, a Presbyterian meeting-house, and a Catholic chapel. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of an abbey. From this point there are gorgeous views of Galway Bay, of Arran Islands, and the cliffs of Mohir.

The next point of interest on our road is Glendalough, one and a half miles in length, with Ballynahinoch Lough, and Lough Inagh, which lie nearly together in a group. Fronting Glendalough are two hotels for the accommodation of anglers. The Connemara Mountains, called the 'Twelve Pins,' now rise upon our view in all their Alpine grandeur. The height of the principal are-Bencorr, 2,336 feet; Benbaun, 2,305 feet; Derryclare, 2,220 feet; Bengower, 2,184 feet; Bencullaghduff, 2,290 feet; Benlettery, 1,904 feet.

Oughterard is a small town, with picturesque surroundings, on the river Owenriff, which flows into Lough Corrib, which is about one mile distant. From this point of the Lough boats can be obtained to the town of Cong, nine miles, and cars can be had at Oughterard, which has two inns. In this neighbourhood is Aughnamure Castle, the ancient stronghold of the O'Flaherties. Several small lakes are passed as we drive over the dreary moorland between Oughterard and the Half-way House, which is twenty-seven miles from Galway. This is a small hotel or inn, much frequented by anglers, who fish in the numerous lakes and rivers, or who wish to ramble along the coast of Kilkieran Bay, about ten miles distant.

CHAPTER XX.

G ALWAY TO DUBLIN.

GALWAY.

ALWAY county is bounded north by Mayo and Roscommon, east by Roscommon, King's Co., and Tipperary, south by Clare and Galway Bay, west by the Atlantic. Length, 84 miles; breadth, 62; containing 1,566,354 acres, of which 742,805 are arable, 23,718 in plantations,

and 19,030 under water, Its lakes and mountains have been already sketched (pp. 3, 15, 16). Limestone and marl are the chief minerals, there being a great abundance of the latter, green variegated and black, in Connemara. The population in 1851 was 322,259; reduced enormously in 1861, when it was 271,478. The county returns two Members to Parliament-constituency, 5,387. Galway borough also returns two; population, 16,824; constituency, 1,381. The principal towns are Tuam-population, 4,542; Loughrea, 3,063; Gort, 2,077; and Ballinasloe, 3,200. The Lord Lieutenant of the county is Lord Clanricarde; the number of magistrates being 222, including 21 deputy-lieutenants.

GALWAY CITY.

'The City of the Tribes' is a county within itself, governed by the High Sheriff, the Recorder, local magistrates, and a board of twenty-four Commissioners, elected triennially. It is situated on the Bay of Galway, and has a tolerably good harbour, managed by a separate board. The town stands on both sides of the river, which discharges the superfluous waters of Lough Corrib, and is well situated on rising ground. The old part is close to the sea, and forms a distinct township, or district called Cladagh, inhabited entirely by fishermen and their families, a peculiar and clannish race of people. The population of the city was 23,695 in 1851. It does not speak well for its prosperity, that at the next census it was reduced to 16,967. Like most old cities, it was built as a fortress, the greatest number of houses crowded into the smallest space, with walls, gates, and defensive works. Galway had great commercial intercourse with Spain in the Middle Ages. Spanish merchants settled here, and many of the edifices were in the Spanish style, with inclosed courts, fortified gates, and archways leading into the street. Some of these still exist, divided into small tenements, and occupied by several families. Others have been allowed to fall into decay, which, indeed, was the characteristic of much of the town until lately. Hardiman, in his history, published about fifty years ago, complained of the shamefully neglected state of the streets, with numerous holes in the pavement, and heaps of accu

mulated dirt, rendering them in some places almost impassible. No such complaint can be made now. The railway has undoubtedly stimulated the spirit of improvement and self-respect; and the effort to attain the position of a packet station for America has some effect. Yet, when we look at the natural advantages it enjoys, and recollect what it was in comparatively dark ages, we cannot but feel that there is a fault somewhere about it. The Railway Hotel is a magnificent building, and ought to prosper better than it has done.

Galway was to some extent made an English colony in the 13th century, when 13 families settled there, whose names are now found among the leading gentry of the county :Blake, Bodkin, Browne, D'Arcy, Ffrench, Joyce, Kierwin, Lynch, Martin, Morris, &c. In 1396 a mint was established in the city. In 1615 1,200 tons of Spanish wine were brought into the port. Galway paid a subsidy to one of the O'Briens for protecting its commerce from pirates along the Atlantic coast. In the Revolutionary War, Galway, re-occupied by the Irish, was on the side of James II., till captured by Gerard de Ginkle.

There are pleasant suburbs to the west on the sea-shore, where there is a good watering-place. The Queen's College, situated in that direction, is a very beautiful building, surrounded by its own flourishing plantations, and kept in very nice order. The presence of such a numerous staff of able professors, and of the students under their care, cannot but have a great effect in elevating the tone of society in Galway and about it, and awakening aspirations for a better state of things than they have hitherto been contented with.

Before the Reformation, Galway had an exempt jurisdiction, the highest ecclesiastic being called the Warden of Galway, who was subject to no bishop. This jurisdiction was retained in the Church of England, as well as the Church of Rome, until our own times. The Archbishop of Tuam dared not go into the City of the Tribes, even to confirm the children. Instead of a warden the Catholics have now a Bishop of Galway. The Protestant parish church is a venerable cathedral-like edifice. The Catholics have three churches, three monasteries, and five nunneries. The navigation of the harbour is connected with Lough Cong by a