or Taverns, lifting their fronts so grandly at the corners of the leading streets, as another indication of the same kind, is rather questionable; but at any rate they are a great improvement upon the old, dingy, confined, dirty taverns, which they are fast superseding, with their beautiful bars, their brilliant gas-light, their ample supply of daily papers, and in some cases their telegrams during times of public excitement.

Shops. It will be admitted by travellers that no city in Europe, not even London or Paris, excels Dublin in the magnitude, beauty, and taste of its shops. Nassau Street, Grafton Street, Dame Street, Westmoreland Street, the Quays, Sackville Street, Henry Street, can show as fine shop-fronts as are to be found anywhere, although, of course, any one of them, even Sackville Street, is surpassed in extent by many streets and 'roads' in London. But there is a class of warehouses in Dublin, vulgarly called 'Monster Houses,' which we have not seen equalled in any other city. So far as we know, there are few establishments in London to be compared with Pim Brothers and Co., in South Great George's Street; M'Swiney, Delany and Co., Sackville Street; Todd and Burns, in Mary Street; or Arnott's and Co., in Henry Street; M'Birney and Co., Aston's Quay; Brown, Thomas, and Co., and Switzer, Ferguson and Co., Grafton Street. Each of these establishments is in fact a congeries of warehouses, placed under the same roof, large enough to absorb the business of a whole street, employing hundreds of young men and women, who are boarded in the house, and business is transacted so systematically, with so much punctuality and correctness, that it may be regarded as a normal training school for the employés. They have also libraries and reading-rooms to improve their minds during the hours when they are off duty. Besides the above, there are several other first-class establishments in the City, such, for instance, as Brown, M'Conkey, and Co., Dame Street; Scott, Bell, and Co., Wellington Quay; Oldham and Sons, Westmoreland Street; and Forrest and Sons, Grafton Street. Similar establishments are now to be found in most of the provincial towns, and there is no doubt that they have had a beneficial effect in stirring up the natives to get out of their old ruts. It

would be well if the farmers were as apt to learn as the shopkeepers. For, with all our patriotism and nationality, truth constrains us to admit, that, for most of the progress which the stranger witnesses, we are indebted, not to the spontaneous efforts of the natives, but to invasion-the welcome invasion, of Englishmen and Scotchmen, of capital and enterprise, who, looking at the country with a 'fresh eye,' have recognised its latent resources and developed them, to their own advantage, it is true; but while they have created splendid fortunes for themselves, they have contributed largely to the improvement and prosperity of their adopted country.

The population of Dublin, within the municipal boundary, in 1861 was 254,293—4,000 less than that at the census of 1851. The increase during forty years has been very great. In 1821 the population was 185,881; in 1831 it amounted to 203,650, and in 1841 to 232,726. The area within the municipal boundary is 3,807 acres.

Speaking of the progress of Dublin, we should bear in mind that it was not till 1768 that street improvements may be said to have begun in London. It was then that projecting signs and pent houses were removed, the streets flagged, and the houses numbered. The same regulations were adopted in Dublin, by Act of Parliament, in 1774, and another Act in 1785, for better paving, lighting, and cleansing the city.

CHAPTER V.

METROPOLITAN EXCURSIONS.

FIRST EXCURSION-A CIRCUIT ROUND THE SHELBOURNE.

O great sacrifice of time is required in visiting all that is worth seeing in Dublin and its environs, because most of the objects of interest to the tourist are within a comparatively short distance of any central point from which he may be supposed to start. As the saving of time is impor

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tant, and it should be economised as much as possible, the plan we adopt for his convenience is not to select the 'lions,' and go in pursuit of them hither and thither in the first place, but to take them as we meet them with other less attractive sights. Assuming, then, that he is domiciled at the Shelbourne, and that he wishes to 'do' Dublin as quickly as possible, we will guide him to the objects most worthy of attention, many of which, indeed, are under his eyes, as he looks out from the windows of the coffee-room. He sees in the centre of the Square a statue of George II.; and near the gate, within the railing, a statue of the late Earl of Eglinton, erected by his friends to commemorate his administration as Viceroy of Ireland, which made him. popular with all parties, though a Conservative.

Turning to the left, and walking up the east side of the Green, we see the Royal College of Science, late the Museum of Irish Industry, which was founded some years ago by Sir Robert Kane, President of the Queen's College, Cork. He occupies the position of Dean of Faculty in the new institution, which is under the Committee of Council on Education, Science, and Art Department, South Kensington. The Museum is worth examining; admission free.

Next, on the same side, is St. Vincent's Hospital, an excellent institution, conducted by the Sisters of Charity. It occupies two large houses united, Nos. 56 and 57.

At this corner of the Green we enter Earlsfort Terrace, and have a splendid front view of the Exhibition Palace to the right. It consists of the Winter Garden, covered with glass, and the solid building in front. This contains two concert halls, which can accommodate 3,000, and 1,500 respectively, a lecture hall, an exhibition hall, a sculpture hall, picture galleries, dining hall, and a number of smaller rooms, all admirably arranged for the convenience of the public. The winter garden and promenade is nearly 500 feet long, surrounded by a gallery and balconies overlooking the pleasure-grounds, which are laid out with great taste. The internal ornaments consist of shrubs, flowers, rockeries, fountains, aviaries, statues, &c.

Returning to the Green, we pass along the south side, on which are situated the princely mansion of the late Sir

Benjamin Lee Guinness, the Catholic University, the Wesleyan Connexional School, and the Wesleyan Centenary Chapel. If we cross from this through Cuffe Street, we shall in a few minutes arrive at St. Patrick's Cathedral, through Kevin Street, from which there is a new approach opened up by Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness, the walls constructed in a style in keeping with the temple to which it leads. On the right is the old palace of the Archbishop, now the barrack of the Metropolitan Police, the Deanery House, which has lately been made available for official purposes, and, adjoining the Cathedral, Marsh's Library, a large and valuable collection of books, which has been very little used, in consequence of the unfavourable situation in which it has been placed.

St. Patrick's Cathedral is the finest building of the kind in Ireland; but to those who have seen the Continental and English Cathedrals, it will appear very small, and not very remarkable for its ornamentation. Indeed, there are many parish churches in England as large and imposing. The monuments in the interior commemorate the Duke of Schomberg, Bishop Marsh, the founder of the library, Dean Swift, Stella, and several others; the most remarkable being a massive and curiously ornamented monument to the Earl of Cork and his family, which has been very properly removed by the restorer from its former place beside the altar, to the wall at the great western door.

Leaving the cathedral by the northern door, and turning to the right, we walk on through Bride Street, passing Bride's church on the left, till we come to St. Werburgh's church, a fine building, which is remarkable as the burial place of Lord Edward Fitzgerald, uncle of the present Duke of Leinster. His romantic history has been written by Thomas Moore. The principal leader of the United Irishmen, he was arrested in a house in Thomas Street by Major Sirr and a number of soldiers, having defended himself so desperately, that he received thirty wounds, of which he died before he could be tried for high treason.

Fronting us is Christ's Church Cathedral, in Christ's Church Place, formerly Skinner Row. The precincts are greatly improved, and the aspect of the building, heavy as it is, is very much better than it was a generation ago. The

nave contains monuments to Sir Samuel Auchmuty, Thomas Prior, Lord Bowes, Lord Lifford; but probably the only one that will excite much interest, is the monument to Strongbow and his wife Eva. He died in 1177, and is called in the inscription the first and principal invader of Ireland. Under the shadow of the cathedral almost, are St. John's and St. Michael's Churches; and a little further westward is the curious old church of St. Audeon's.

Five minutes' walk from Christ's Church is Dublin Castle, on Cork Hill. Entering the grand gateway, we see the viceregal apartments at the opposite side of the square. The principal of these is St. Patrick's Hall, where public banquets and balls are held. The Lord Lieutenant resides here only two or three months in the early part of the year, during which he holds levees and drawing-rooms, and receptions, and gives public dinners and other entertainments, such as befit the Irish Court. The rest of the year is spent at the Viceregal Lodge, Phoenix Park. In the Castle Square are the residence of the Dean of the Chapel Royal, the offices of the Irish Chief Secretary, the Under Secretary, the AttorneyGeneral, and of several other departments. Passing under an arch we enter 'The Lower Castle Yard,' having on the left several public offices, and on the right the Chapel Royal. A little beyond this beautiful building is the office of Sir Bernard Burke, Ulster King-at-Arms, the author of several magnificent works on the Peerage and the Landed Gentry. Near this spot rises the Bermingham Tower, the proudest monument of English dominion existing in Ireland; and immediately under it, ready to defend against every enemy the British flag, that has been flying on it for eight centuries, is a strong garrison of her Majesty's troops, occupying extensive barracks.

The gate at the entrance to the Lower Castle Yard, through which carriages pass on leaving the Castle, leads into Dame Street, from the top of which we have the best view of the City Hall, formerly the Royal Exchange, which has been already described. About half-way down this street, the visitor will see on his left the Commercial Buildings, where the Chamber of Commerce holds its meetings, and which contains the best news-room in the city. His attention will