PREFACE. THE following attempt to describe some of the scenes which came under the writer's observation during his sojourn in Spain, at a period when that interesting but distracted country was passing through one of the many ordeals to which it has unhappily been subjected, was made at the request of some friends who had heard him descant upon this, his favourite topic, and speak with that interest and that affection with which his heart will ever be filled for a land where he has passed so many happy days, and from whose inhabitants of all ranks he has ever received the most disinterested kindness. The plan adopted by the writer was to confine himself as far as possible to the Scenes and Adventures which he witnessed, or was personally concerned in: these afforded him an opportunity of tracing an outline of Spanish habits, customs, and characteristics, as they were spread out before him in the different parts of the country whither the peculiar circumstances under which he visited it, caused his steps to be directed. The writer could wish that the philosopher, the artist, and the intelligent traveller might be induced to penetrate into the interior of Spain, where ample materials exist for storing the mind, and gratifying the taste! Having witnessed some remarkable public occurrences, the author has faithfully recorded the facts which came under his observation, and frankly stated his opinions. London: April, 1845. 1 CONTENTS. Youthful predilection for Spain-Valley of Aspe-Curious inn at Urdoz-Spanish carriers-Novel repast-Public bed- room-Travelling on mules-Spanish frontier-Jaca-Smug. gler's village-Pleasant companions-Spanish posada-Awk- ward mode of eating-Festival of St. Agatha-Attempt at dancing-Spanish improvisation-Friendly adieux-Pleasing Passage-boats between Zaragoza, and Tudela-The Imperial Canal-Canon Piñatelli-Machinery of the Canal-Tudela -Ride to Alfáro-Curious contrivance-Alfáro-Ausejo- Loyalty of the people-Conversation with a Cura—The Description of Pamplona-Description of the Festival of St. Fermin-Cathedral of Pamplona-St. Ignatius de Loyola- Anniversary of San Antonio de Padua-Duke de la Victoria -Fueros of Navarre-Butchers' market-Character of the |