crossing some terraces, covered in the same manner, you reach the top, and 605 passing a great gate, enter at once this sad but imposing theater of Gaudama's glory. Before you stands the huge Shoodagon, its top among the clouds, and its golden sides blazing in the glories of an Eastern sun. Around are pompous zayats, noble pavements, Gothic mausoleums, uncouth colossal lions, curious stone umbrellas, gracefully cylindrical banners of gold-embroidered muslin hanging from lofty pillars, enormous stone jars in rows to receive offerings, tapers burning before the images, exquisite flowers displayed on every side, filling the air with fragrance, and a multitude of carved figures of idols, worshipers, griffins, guardians, etc.

Always, in the morning, men and women are seen in every direction kneeling behind their gift, and with uplifted hands reciting their devotions, often with a string of beads counting over each repetition; aged persons sweep out every place, or pick the grass from the crevices; dogs and crows straggle around the altars, and devour the recent offerings; the great bells utter their frequent tones; and the mutter of praying voices makes a hum like the buzzing of an exchange. Of inferior pagodas (though some surpass in size any I have seen elsewhere), there are, in Rangoon, more than five hundred, occupying as much space as the city itself, probably more. Most of them stand a little out of the city, interspersed with groves, embowering costly kyoungs and commodious zayats. The latter are particularly numerous, to accommodate the hosts of worshipers who resort hither at certain seasons of te the h the year.

In the vicinity of the hill are 150 families of "slaves of the pagoda," containing about two hundred men, and, as their chief told me, "plenty of women." They do not appear to be poor or despised, and their quarter of the city is not distinguished by any particular feature. They become so, not always because of crime, but often by merely incurring the displeasure of a great man; or he gives them as an act of piety. Most of them are so by birth, for the progeny of such persons are forever in the same condition. They are not allowed to marry, except among themselves."

Some native assistants accompanied Mr. Malcolm to Rangoon, and aided him in distributing tracts. The day succeeding his arrival his assistants seated themselves on their mats under his window, with their heaps of tracts, and quickly gathered an audience, which they continued daily, frequently having twenty or thirty to listen or to dispute. The support of a family here is so easy that plenty of leisure is afforded to all.

On the 14th of June, Mr. Malcolm embarked in his boat for Ava, the capital of Burmah, on the Irrawaddy-the great river of Burmah-some four hundred miles north of Rangoon. The country was flat, the villages continually in sight, and the lands cultivated in rice. Ten days' diligent progress carried them beyond the vast delta of the Irrawaddy. The weather was delightful, and our traveler found it occasionally pleasant to stop and walk along the shore, through the beautiful groves of mango, tamarind and palm trees between the villages. The cultivators of the soil in Burmah reside altogether in villages, as a protection against wild beasts and robbers, and such a thing as a detached farm is unknown.

At one place they entered a little hamlet allotted to lepers, five of whom, as they approached, seated themselves by the roadside, and humbly begged alms. Although pale and haggard, they were cheerful, and without pain, as this disease occasions suffering only in its early stages. Four of them had lost nearly all their toes and all their fingers.

Everywhere around indigo was growing, and large jars, in which it is steeped, often stood in rows on the river bank, and at the villages immense quantities of cotton cloth, which was being dyed, were seen suspended from the trees. Up to near this point the country had been one interminable treeless level, covered with grass and rice. Now the scenery was beautifully diversified; handsomely curving hills, richly cultivated fenced fields, noble trees, among which rose the graceful tamarind; horses, with cattle, hogs, and fowls, and numerous birds. Still beyond, cities and towns lined the shores, fine forests clothed the hills, and the scenery was of unsurpassed beauty.

They passed an astonishing number of trading-boats, frequently hundreds in a day, laden principally with rice, salt, and gnappee, which is a condiment for rice, made of half-salted fish, shrimps, etc., pounded to the consistency of mortar, and to Europeans of a most repulsive smell. The largest carried cargoes of ten or twelve thousand bushels of rice, which sailed when the wind was fair, at other times were drawn by the hands with a rope from shore, or propelled by setting-poles.

The hardihood, skill, and good nature of the Burmese boatmen is remarkable, and their boats well adapted to the river. In ascending, setting-poles are in almost continual use. These are of almost solid and straight bamboo, and not as with us put to the front of the shoulder, but either above the collar bone, or on top of the shoulder, the boatman bending forward till his hands reach the deck, by which the resistance is brought perpendicular to the spine, and much more power exerted than in any other way. Our mode is adopted when only little exertion is wanted. Owing to the shifting nature of the channel the boats are continually grounding, when the men, who seem almost amphibious, spring overboard to shove off. "The strength and energy with which they surmount difficulties," says Mr. Malcolm, "transcend anything I ever saw among the boatmen of our western waters, and in temper and morality they are immeasurably superior. In this trip and in others, I never saw a quarrel, or heard a hard word. Cross accidents have occurred, and we frequently were entangled with other boats; but all difficulties were met and surmounted with good temper and even hilarity."

In the upper part of the river, they found the palmyra, or toddy tree, abundant. The sap, or toddy, is usually drank fresh, and is then sweet and wholesome. By standing a few hours it ferments, and is more intoxicating than wine; but the Burmans, who are a very temperate people, then seldom drink it, and almost never to intoxication.

As our traveler progressed up the river, and entered the villages, he was amused at the consternation of the people, many of whom in him, for the first time, saw a white man. The dogs barked unusually fierce, and ran, and frequently a herd of Burmese buffaloes scampered off in affright at his

white face and dress. Not unfrequently a whole family would run away from their house in terror as he entered. Often, as he walked along the bank, and by turning a corner, he suddenly encountered young girls drawing water; such always dropped their pots, and fled like startled fawns. Those too old to be terrified, regarded him as a curiosity. They turned up his pantaloons, admired the seamless stockings, felt under his vest, and wondered at his many garments. They were very polite, looking upon him as a superior being. They were remarkably considerate not to offend him, and if, on showing his watch, pencil-case, or anything which particularly attracted them, where there were more than could well see, the outer ones waited until their turn, and if he was in haste, quietly desisted.

After a voyage of three weeks, they arrived within sight of the "golden city." During their voyage up they had visited and distributed tracts in eighty-two towns, cities, and villages; supplied six hundred and fifty-seven boats, many of them with families, and from fifteen to thirty men. Near sundown it was their custom to moor at a village, when the assistants collected the people, and passed the evening in preaching and discoursing on religious topics. Such was the avidity of the people to obtain the tracts, that their boat was frequently so crowded with applicants that they had scarcely time for eating or sleeping. This arose not from a desire to learn the new religion, but from curiosity to see a tract, which was novel to them in all respectsin the shape, the printing, and the paper-their own books being of palmleaves, or black pasteboard, and upon which the words are written with a steatite pencil.

Our traveler remained a month in Ava. It is inclosed by a wall twenty feet high, and seven miles in circumference. Within is a large walled area, containing the palace, hall of justice, council-house, and noblemen's residences. The numerous pagodas, with their white and gilded spires, in a distant view, give the city an imposing aspect; but aside from these it has little worth. seeing.

He early visited a kyoung or monastery erected by the king. It consisted of three immense edifices connected by galleries, the roofs possessing the royal and sacred peculiarity of successive stages, one above another. Every part, both externally and internally, roofs and floors, were handsomely carved and gilded, the whole producing a gorgeous effect. He had an interview with the president, in a vast apartment, with lofty pillars. He was reclining in front of the principal idol, on the floor in the midst of his books and writing materials. His manners were modest, frank and sensible, and he was apparently much gratified to see and converse with them. In the meanwhile a young priest entered and worshiped the president just as if he had. been an idol, and on leaving gave him a handsome bouquet. This he laid on a vase among others in like manner received. In the city are numerous monasteries-which are in fact priests' colleges-and twenty thousand priests. These buildings are inclosed by walls and adorned by pleasant groves.

The king's palace is composed of almost a hundred wooden buildings, standing on an area of near a quarter of a mile square, the roofs being in the royal style of architecture. The audience hall is a sumptuous structure; its

roof is supported by tall, richly-carved pillars, and every part of the building is dazzling with gold. The roof, 195 feet high, ascends like a steeple, and in many successive stages. The boats of the king and of the nobility, are all gilt, not excepting the oars.

Ava is laid out in square blocks, and the streets, although not paved, are broad, straight, and clean. Bullocks are used for transportation, and to draw the bamboo carriages of the wealthy; instead of seats the floors of these vehicles are covered with handsome cushions or mats. The bullocks trot along quite briskly, with bells around their necks, jingling cheerfully as they go. The nobility generally reside in a brick building surrounded by the smaller tenements of their servants, in the center of a square with pleasant gardens and fruit-trees often attached.

Ava has about 100,000 inhabitants, and its numerous shops contain almost all articles of foreign merchandise. In boat building, sculpture, gilding, and basket making, the people are as ingenious as our own; near the town is a bridge which evinces architectural skill of a high order. Like the Chinese, the Burmese have no idea of perspective and their best paintings do not surpass the daubs intended as ornaments, on the wooden clocks of Connecticut. Mr. Malcolm, in company with the missionaries of the place, visited Prince Mek-a-ra, son of the late king, and was very politely received. He was the most literary man in Burmah; he read English, was versed in geography, and mathematics, and his library, among several other English works, contained a set of Rees' Cyclopedia. Mathematics was his favorite science, and he rejected everything not capable of a mathematical demonstration. Though by no means bigoted, he appeared to be attached to the religion of his fathers. One of the missionaries gave him Gallaudet's work on the Soul, which had been translated at Maulmain. He received it thankfully, but remarked, he could not believe its arguments unless as plain as that twice two equals four. Mr. Malcolm remarked that its evidence was of a different nature, and in vain tried to make him comprehend the difference between a mathematical and a moral certainty. Finally he requested the prince to take his pencil, and by ciphering, prove he was not a dead man! For an instant he appeared entirely nonplused, and then burst into a laugh. After a little, he comprehended the idea, and agreed to peruse the work studiously.

Among the other of the leading characters, Mr. Malcolm visited the brother of the king, who has since ascended the throne. He received him with great politeness; in conversation, his face lighted up with unusual animation. Our traveler found him to be a very strong minded man, and of extensive information. He spoke highly of our country, and his comments upon the institutions of foreign nations, indicated sound judgment and reflection.

Mr. Malcolm arrived at Calcutta on the 20th of September, 1836, after a hot and disagreeable passage in a small schooner, from Rangoon. As they ascended the Hoogly-one of the mouths of the Ganges-there was much to interest him. At first fishermen's villages, and scattered huts, tropical trees, fields of sugar-cane, broad level rice-fields, and a universal greenness appeared on every side. Still further up, a superb array of country seats of

mingled Grecian and Oriental architecture, lifted their white columns to the sky, amid magnificent trees. Nearing the city, innumerable boats covered the river, of every conceivable form, peopled by a mixed medley of all nations, in every variety of costume, and speaking a dozen different languages. Before the town innumerable vessels were at anchor; steam engines poured forth from their towering chimnies immense volumes of smoke; beautiful stairs sloped into the stream; palankeens, tonjons, buggies, coaches, phaetons, gares, coanches, and hackeries, lined tl.c shore, and before them was spread out the great capital of British India, lining the shore for more than six miles and containing half a million of souls. Our traveler having found comfortable quarters in Calcutta, we leave him awhile to dwell somewhat at length upon the country, its people, and peculiarities.

CHAPTER II.

DESCRIPTION of Hindoostan-Productions-Animal life-Historical survey-Races of Hindoostan-Fire worshiping Ghebers-Religion of Zoroaster-Hindoo Castes-Religion of Brahma-Transmigration-Religious Books-Literature-Manners and Customs-Trades and occupations-The Malay Peninsula--Siam-Life among the Siamese.

THE whole northern boundary of Hindoostan, is formed by the Himalayas, and the whole southern is circumscribed by the Indian ocean; its area is about twenty times that of the state of Virginia, or 1,250,000 square miles. The gigantic ranges of the Himalayas-one of the sublimest features on our globe-rising to the height of 27,000 feet, or over five miles, cover its northern part. Southward, for many miles, their ramifications divide the country into a succession of lofty mountains and deep valleys, with vegetation of remarkable stateliness, variety, and beauty, and a profusion of flowers. It is here that the great rivers of India, the Ganges and the Indus, have their rise. Among these mountains are waterfalls unequaled, one of which, on. the Carawooty, has a fall of 1150 feet, or near four times that of Niagara.

The great plains of India extend south of this region over thousands of miles. A large portion of central Hindoostan is composed of valleys and table-lands. One of the most remarkable regions in the country, is the Great Desert, or "the Region of Death," comprising an area equal to the three states of New York, Pennsylvania, and Virginia. On the west it is traversed by the Indus, and on the east by the Loonee. Traveling through its sandy wastes, is very difficult. Of the whole of Hindoostan one-third is jungle or waste.

Hindoostan is one of the richest countries known, in mineral wealth, aside from coal, tin, copper, iron and marble, the precious metals, gold and silver exist, also, rubies, garnets, amethysts, cornelian, jasper, etc., are found in. many places, and diamonds in Puna, and the extinct kingdom of Golconda.

The climate is characterized by extreme heat; but this is modified by circumstances. The greater part of the country being in the tropics, it has in general a tropical climate, and the year is divided into the wet and dry The abrupt elevations of portions of it, give it a corresponding. change of temperature, so that while the plains are burnt up by intolerable:

seasons.