ABERYSTWITH. "The roar of waters!-from the headlong height The fall of waters!-rapid as the light; The flashing mass foams, shaking the abyss; The hell of waters! where they howl and hiss And boil in endless torture!" 17 After the fatigues of these ascents and descents from and to the "Acherontic stream," the comforts of the Hafod Arms Inn are right welcome; and a wanderer may spend a pleasant and profitable evening in "chewing the cud of sweet and bitter fancies" arising out of the scenes with which his senses have been fed during the day. D L CHAPTER II. HAFOD-STRATA FLORIDA ABBEY-YSTRAD MEIRIG. HERE balmy air, and springs as ether clear, And on the florid cheek emboss the rose Voyage of Life, by the Rev. David Lloyd. THE usual custom being to visit Hafod from the Devil's Bridge, and I, like a systematic and orderly Wanderer, having followed the example of my predecessors in the vagrant line, my readers, in like manner, will be good enough to follow me while I retrace my steps to that former "paradise of dainty devices." The road to Hafod lies through a wildly mountainous tract of country, at first overlooking the deep dingle where the foaming Mynach tears its angry way;-and then over the brow of a hill, commanding an extensive and richly varied prospect. At the summit of this hill, an arch is thrown across the road, and being seen for a considerable distance on either side, it forms a picturesque object in the landscape; though to a stranger it holds out a deceitful promise of some more interesting and ancient fabric than the mere ornamental creation of a neighbouring landowner. From this arch the road descends somewhat steeply, and a turn to the right leads to a lodge, at which the grounds of Hafod are entered. Here the view becomes extremely beautiful; richly wooded hills rise around, leaving a valley of lawns and groves, through which the Ystwith takes its ever-varying course, now plunging down a rocky ravine in a sheet of white and glittering foam -now flowing darkly along, shadowed by the graceful branches of the Mountain-ash, and the delicate Birken spray, while the sturdy king of the woods, the massive-foliaged Oak, groups more heavily and richly with the glossy Spanish Chestnut, and the darksome Fir. A lovely road along this lawny vale, at one graceful sweep brings the visiter in front of the mansion, the exterior of which is the only part that the present owner suffers the eyes of curious tourists to be edified by examining; and this, though sufficiently elegant for the residence of both the affluent and tasteful, certainly possesses none of the magical attributes which certain writers are ambitious to invest it with. The original mansion of Hafod was nearly destroyed by fire, in 1807, with many of its valuable manuscripts, books, and pictures. A new mansion, however, arose under the genius of its late tasteful proprietor, equal in extent to the former one, which, after his death, with his estate, passed into the hands of trustees. The description of Hafod, so laboriously essayed by some Mr. Cumberland, I find quoted in almost every guide-book ; of course it is considered the ne plus ultra of the sublime and beautiful; and as my readers will look in vain for so dainty a paragraph in my homely composition, I cannot refuse them the advantage of perusing this choice specimen : 166 "Wales and its borders, both North and South, abound at L intervals with fine things: Piercefield has grounds of great magnificence, and wonderfully picturesque beauty; Downton Castle has a delicious woody vale, most tastefully managed : Llangollen is brilliant; the banks of the Conway savagely grand; Barmouth romantically rural; the great Pistyll Rhayader horribly wild; Rhayader Wennol gay, and gloriously irregular; but at Hafod I find the effects of all in one circle," &c. &c. The grounds of Hafod are highly favoured by nature, in variety of form; and art has lent her improving hand so gracefully and naturally, that we forget she has so much to claim in the beauty of the place: but its late proprietor, and we might almost say creator, well knew how to blend the wild and the cultivated in harmonious union. Colonel Johnes, the late lamented and excellent owner of this immense estate, planted nearly three millions of trees upon bare heathery hills, where now rich hanging woods form so striking a contrast to the adjacent scenery. Under his fostering and unwearied care, the spot he selected to work his wizard-like change upon, became such, as, in some measure, to warrant even the extravagant praise bestowed on it; but now, the beauty is fast waning in the neglect and general absence of its present proprietor; the pleasant and well-kept walks have become quagmires, and where a garden once shed its many perfumes on the air, inviting the approach of wandering guests, now a wilderness of tall grass and rank dandelions fills the space. The stranger-loving bird, too, of which travellers have spoken, with its triple yellow crest, that used to delight in making the acquaintance of all pilgrims to Hafod, and to entertain them with its imitative notes, is dead. The beautiful cascades, the rocks, the woods, and the gentle wild-flowers, still wear their wonted looks of grandeur and loveliness; but where the hand of man should give its aid, in maintaining the improvements of art, all is gone to decay. |