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touching Terra Firma. The letters of introduction with which I was furnished, procured me the most immediate and flattering attentions; and I soon found that the serenity of an Italian climate, the beauties of an Italian city, and the amiable cheerfulness of Italian society, were well calculated to throw a shade of oblivion over the privations attendant upon a sea voyage, and to repress the rising sigh which must be felt at the recollection of those dear friends from whom we are separated.

THAT urbanity of manners for which the inhabitants of this country are so justly noted, is well exemplified at Nice, where the politeness of the French is combined with the social disposition of the Italians; and where, from the proximity of the two nations, the language and manners of each are almost indiscriminately used. Certain peculiar customs of Italy, are, however, as may be imagined, the more prevalent; and the Siesta-SpassaggiareSorbetti-Polenta, and even Cicisbéos, are as firmly established as at Rome or at Naples.

THE fertility of the climate compensates for the natural poverty of a sandy soil which prevails in those parts near the sea; and the laborious assiduity of the gardener extracts, from every foot of earth susceptible of cultivation, the finest vegetables imaginable. At a short distance from the coast, where Nature is more lavish of her favors, corn, wine, oil, silk, and hemp are pro

duced in great abundance; the two latter articles constituting the principal export trade of the town.

NICE is a favorite residence of foreigners in general: English valetudinarians are particularly attached to it on account of the heat being much more moderate than it is found farther south; and most other travellers are satisfied with it, because every delicacy for the table may be procured in abundance, and upon very reasonable terms.

REMAINING only ten days to enjoy these luxuries, we con tinued our voyage along a coast studded with villages, until we reached the famous city of Genoa..

UPON entering the port, a magnificent amphitheatre presents itself, formed of stately buildings and variously-colored houses, covering a beautiful hill of gentle acclivity; a tranquil harbour (the glassy surface of which is preserved unruffled by two extensive moles) bathes its feet; and the natural activity of a widely circulated trade excites, at the first moment, a high idea of the riches, importance, and number of the inhabitants. Upon more mature examination, however, the population is not found to correspond with the appearance of that part of Genoa which lies near the port; nor does the splendor of the palaces, in the elevated streets of the city, convey a more correct

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idea of the present wealth either of the government itself, or, generally speaking, of the principal nobility.

THE revenues of the republic, which were formerly so considerable that, in the fifteenth century, Philip the second, king of Spain, borrowed no less than three millions of crowns from the government, at a very moderate interest, have been long acknowledged scarcely equal to its expenditure; and although there are some private fortunes of nobles, who are ostensibly engaged in commercial pursuits, estimated at from ten to fifteen thousand pounds sterling per annum, yet many of them (each possessing several superb palaces) do not enjoy an annual revenue exceeding two thousand pounds.

THE government, previous to the French revolution, was composed of a doge appointed for two years, who, with eight governatori, formed the court called signoria; a little council consisting of one hundred members, and a great council of four hundred members: there were also formerly scindici, whose powers were similar to those of the Roman censors; but since Genoa has been made subservient to the authority of France, under the title of the Ligurian Republic, the forms of government have been altered; its consequence seems to be absorbed by that of its protectress; and it is no longer acknowledged by England as a sovereign state.

HOWEVER to be deprecated is the cause of these changes, and of all the incalculable evils to which Italy has been exposed, humanity has reason to rejoice, that the disgraceful system of torturing the Turks and Africans, taken prisoners by the vessels of the Genoese Republic, is no longer pursued ; and that throughout those states, now subject to Gallic influence, the horrible persecutions to which these unfortunate victims were exposed have totally ceased.

AMONGST the first objects I visited, on the morning after my arrival, were the prisons near the harbour.---Here I beheld, I think, the very lowest pitch of human wretchedness and degradation! A number of aged Turks were chained to the wall, in stone recesses, at a short distance from each other; and some still more aged in cells, so low that they were never able to stand upright! Many of these men of misery appeared to have lost all sense or recollection; and one, who particularly attracted my attention, had counted no less than twenty-seven years of captivity! He seemed about sixty-five years old---his flowing beard was whitened by misfortune; and his sullen deportment indicated the rooted antipathy he so justly entertained against his inhuman Christian tormentors! Such was his prejudice, that he treated with contempt the trifling assistance I was disposed to offer him; and allowed it to remain upon the ground untouch

ed, without even condescending to acknowledge it by the slightest gesture.

QUITTING this melancholy object with every feeling of humanity upon the stretch, I entered one of the galleys-Here was an assemblage of wretchedness one would think sufficient to annihilate all idea of merriment; yet such is the accommodating spirit with which we are endowed by Providence, that even here I heard the sounds of joy and song and laughter.-Turk chained to Turk--Christian to Christian, and, by a refinement of cruelty, Christian to Turk; all were rivetted to the benches of the vessel―Here they worked and ate and slept; and waked to a renewal of the horrid circle of their employment!--Yet so little distressing to one fellow with whom I spoke appeared the life of a galley slave, that he had actually commenced a third term of seven years confinement for a very trifling remuneration-He had been first condemned to seven years punishment for criminal conduct-then served seven years for another person, and had, a few days previous to my visit, contracted a similar engagement.-The only answer I could obtain to the few questions I ventured to ask him respecting his taste was a kind of smile, and Che vuole? Non mi dispiace tanto! What can I say? I don't find it so very disagreeable!

I WAS afterwards informed that this was not a very uncom

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