THE SKELLINGS. 111 When too late, I felt sorry that I had not devoted a day, thus unfavourable for fishing, to visiting the very singular rocks called the Skellings. They are about ten or twelve miles from Waterville, and can only be approached in serene weather. From the accounts I received, and from an examination of them through a good glass, they would amply repay the trouble of inspection. They rise perpendicularly out of the sea, to a great height, and consist of nothing but bare, broken rock. On the larger one are two Lighthouses, tended by a couple of families, who are obliged to have always six months' provisions on the Island. Formerly their houses could only be approached by most perilous climbing: but a road has now been cut in the solid rock, which enables the stranger to view these awful precipices without any risk. I was anxious to examine them, but felt I could scarcely sacrifice another day to the purpose; besides which I had sent over a messen ger to Kenmare for a car to meet me at Sneem. The same reasons obliged me also to decline Mr. Butler's polite invitation to dine with him that day-though with much regret—as, from the kindness and intelligence I had previously remarked in him, it would have afforded me sincere pleasure to become better acquainted with him, and to obtain that further information about this secluded district which he was so competent to give. CHAPTER V. Departure from Waterville to Derrinane-Wild Scenery of the Coast-Derrinane House-Character of Mr. O'Connell - Review of his Political Conduct - Effect upon IrePresent State and future land -Repeal of the Union Prospects of the Country. Ar Waterville, all passage for carriages terminates, the road thence passing for the next eight or ten miles over a succession of the steepest and most rugged mountains that the imagination can picture. It is in the centre of this rocky solitude that Dan O'Connell's house of Derrinane is situated; and, as he was now residing there, the expectation of seeing the self-styled "Liberator" in his own halls was an additional inducement to pass by a spot which its occupant has invested with such notoriety. I easily hired a couple of ponies for myself and 114 WILD SCENERY OF THE COAST. baggage, at a moderate price, and, the day being brilliantly clear, saw this very striking coast scenery under the most favourable circum stances. About two miles beyond Waterville commences a long and steep ascent, which at length becomes so very precipitous and rough, that even the mountain ponies have some difficulty in surmounting it. The line taken by the primitive road-makers was extremely injudicious; it evidently ought to pass much nearer the sea. Indeed, a new road in that direction was talked of, but, as it would be very expensive, and lead only to Derrinane, it has, I believe, been given up. Upon at length reaching the summit of this tedious ascent, a magnificent prospect opened before me. I had been previously much pleased with the views I had enjoyed of the fine open Bay of Ballinskellings, in which Waterville is placed; but now an infinitely more extensive and more varied panorama WILD SCENERY OF THE COAST. 115 burst upon my sight. We had attained a very considerable elevation, from which we commanded a long line of the rugged coast of Kerry, indented with numberless creeks, and guarded by a fearful array of rocks, against which the sea beat and foamed, even in this calm weather. Below me lay the narrow inlet, on whose sandy beach Derrinane is built; but the house itself was not visible. Beyond were the entrances to Kenmare and Bantry Bays; behind which the rich but tame plains of Cork closed the horizon, and contrasted strongly with the stern features of the immediate scenery around me. To my left towered bare, broken mountains, “in desolation's sullen majesty;" while, to the westward, as far as the eye could reach, stretched the vast, billowy Atlantic. The interest of the scene was somewhat heightened by a numerous cavalcade on their way to Derrinane, consisting of male and female equestrians, mounted, in primitive fashion, on saddle and pillion. They were relatives of |