LETTER XXXVIII.

DESCRIPTION OF SALAMANCA-ITS MAGNIFICENT BRIDGE PARTLY ROMAN-GRAND APPEARANCE. THE RIVER TORMES.-PASTURAGE OF VALDIOS.-GUADARRAMA MOUNTAINS.-ROMAN TOWER.—A ROBBER'S SKULL.-CATHEDRAL.—CI-DEVANT COLLEGE OF THE JESUITS. PLAZA MAYOR -PLAZA DE VERDURA.-SPANISH XANTIPPES.-PICTURES IN THE CATHEDRAL.-JEALOUSY OF THE CLERGY.-PAINTINGS BY BAYCAUX.-IRISH COLLEGE.CLOISTER OF THE BAREFOOTED CARMELITES.-NUNNERY OF ST. URSULA. THE NUN OF GUARDA.

Salamanca, 30th Nov. 1808.

THIS city, so familiar to us all by Le Sage's inimitable romance (Gil Blas), is situated along three small sand-stone hills, in a nook formed by the river Tormes, which, after a course of a few leagues, falls into the Douro. Over the river is a very handsome bridge of twenty-five arches, twelve of which are of Roman architecture, the remainder were added during the reign of Philip the Third, in the commencement of the seventeenth century.

The appearance of Salamanca, at the distance of a few

miles on the road to Cuidad Rodrigo, is very imposing. Its lofty bell-towers and cupolas, the grand Gothic cathedral, numerous convents, and the beautiful bridge, beneath which glides the waving Tormes, form a landscape of the first order.

The country, on the left bank of the river, is au extensive common called Valdios, covered with numerous flocks of sheep, destined for the supply of the metropolis : that on the right is laid out in corn-fields. In the distance are some branches of the Guadarama mountains, whose snowy heads now glitter in the vapoury sun-beams and close in the southern horizon. The scenery would indeed be complete, but for the entire want of trees in the surrounding plain. Nearly in the centre of the bridge is a square tower, with a gateway, which formerly contained a portcullis. The skull of a robber, inclosed in an iron mask, is now the only object appertaining to it, which attracts attention.

Having crossed the bridge, the road conducts under an old Roman arch, by rather a steep ascent, into an intricate maze of dirty narrow streets, the principal of which passes by the great gate of the cathedral, a pile of modern Gothic, covered with sculpture in a barbarous taste; near which is an immense mass of building, formerly be

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longing to that all-powerful order the Jesuits. Since their suppression, it has been appropriated to the use of a body of regular canons, under the name of the church of St. Mark. Turning to the right by a narrow lane, you arrive at a handsome modern square, surrounded with lofty wellbuilt houses, supported on a piazza, the gay Mall of Salamanca. Adjoining to this is another square, in which is held the market for vegetables.

The windows of my lodging command a view of this place, and as I contemplate the busy scene of petty traffic, it gives me some idea of the habits and character of the inhabitants. I observe that the women of the lower classes are irascible to a degree. There is generally a pitched battle amongst them eight or ten times a-day; their tongues are the grand weapons of attack, and as well as I can judge, from the excessive rapidity of their vocifera❤ tion, the language they use is not much inferior to that of the fair inhabitants of Billingsgate.

It would require, I do not doubt, a topographer, as industrious and indefatigable as Pennant or Lysons, to enumerate all the public buildings of this celebrated university; but as I have neither time nor inclination sufficient for such an undertaking, you must be contented with knowing the few particulars, which have acci

dentally fallen under my notice, during the few days I have been here.

The first object is assuredly the cathedral. It is said to have been built in the reign of Charles the First of Spain, during the age of Pope Leo the Tenth. The interior is much admired, on account of the height of its nave; but it will not bear very strict criticism, as at that time Gothic architecture was on the decline. It contains several good pictures, particularly a taking down from the cross, by Titian, and two pictures by Espagnolletti: but so afraid are the priests that we heretics should fall in love with any of these specimens of art, that I have hitherto found it altogether impossible to get a better view, than what is to be obtained by peeping through the closely grated doors of the side chapels in which they are enclosed. This Gothic cathedral contains a cupola of the Ionic order, which, although quite contrary to all rules of art, has nevertheless a very grand effect, as viewed from the centre of the aisle. The organ too should not be passed by unnoticed: it is a very fine one. In this cathedral are stalls for twenty-six canons, who here herd thick, and fare well.

The Jesuits' College contains a series of pictures, by a pupil of Raphael Mengs, named Bayeaux. The subjects

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are taken from the legendary life of Ignatius Loyola, the founder of that order. One or two of these are pretty, particularly one, where the Saint is restoring a sick man to health. This College is a very extensive building, as you may judge, when I tell you that, during a former war, it afforded quarters to six thousand French, going to join army in Portugal. At present, one of our regiments, the thirty-eighth, is quartered in the basement story. In another part of the building were lodged twenty-six or seven lads, from the west of Ireland, who came here to qualify themselves for the cure of Catholic souls. They formerly resided at Seville and St. Jago, but the late King had the establishment removed to Salamanca, in 1778. At this present moment there are not above fifteen of these students, the rest having been dispersed since the commencement of the present contest.

In the monastery of the bare-footed Carmelites is a cloister, containing a series of pictures, painted in fresco. I was advised to visit them, but I wish I had not, as they are the most horrible subjects I ever beheld. The inhu man barbarities practised by the Moors upon the unfortunate Christians who fell into their hands, are depicted with a Gothic fidelity, which is dreadful. Neither age nor sex were then spared. These pictures afford the strongest instance I have ever seen of the truth of Horace's sentiment,