rounded with rich plantations of orange and olive trees, and, after an agreeable ride, we reached this village to dinner.

Villa Franca carries on a considerable intercourse by means of small craft with Lisbon, and forms a sort of halting place to boats going or returning to Santarem. What renders it, however, very interesting to an Englishman is a tradition, which states, that when Don Alonzo, or Alphonso the First, conquered Lisbon from the Moors, he was most materially assisted by a fleet of adventurers, who were going on a crusade to the Holy Land, the greatest part of whom were English. These men afterwards settled in Portugal, and peopled both the villages Almada, at the mouth of the Tagus, and Villa Franca, which they called Cornualla.

The village itself is mean and uninteresting enough, except on the quay, where there is all the bustle usually attendant on a little sea-port.

Sir John Moore, it is said, passed through this place in the morning. General Clinton is at present unwell at

Vide Mickle's Lusiad, Oxford Edition, 1778.

Lisbon but will soon, I hope, be so much recovered as to come up with the army, before it reaches the Spanish frontier.

I shall write to you again on arriving at Santarem, which is two days march from hence. Mean time adieu.

LETTER XX.

VILLAGE OF AZAMBUJA. CITY OF SANTAREM-ITS

ANTIQUITY

DELIGHTFUL SITUATION.-VIEW OVER THE TAGUS AND ADJOINING COUNTRY.

Santarem, 30th October, 1808.

I wrote to you two days ago from the town of Villa Franca, our second stage from Lisbon. We arrived yesterday at a village called Azambuja.

The road, after quitting Villa Franca, was for some miles very picturesque; hedged with plants of aloes and Indian fig, it conducted us through a country interspersed with several villages and orchards. But for some miles before entering Azambuja, the country becomes flat and dreary, composed entirely of corn lands, without any houses, and few inclosures. During the winter, the flat country is generally laid under water, by the inundations of the Tagus. The river comes down, swollen by the rains and melting of the snows, which fall on its

parent mountains, and arriving at this level track, sweeps every thing before it; consequently, in winter, the traveller is obliged to make a considerable detour in going from Lisbon to Santarem. Azambuja is a mean straggling village, devoid of interest, and without any picturesque accompaniments.

We were billeted on the house of a wealthy farmer, who received us with much hospitality. He was of a very inquisitive disposition, and embarrassed us not a little by a variety of questions respecting the convention, which we found very difficult to be answered. He seemed much dissatisfied upon the whole with that measure, and regretted extremely that we had not hanged General Loisson, whom he described as the greatest scoundrel in existence.

This morning we left Azambuja, and, after travelling over a country pleasantly diversified with vines, corn, and olives, we reached Santarem.

Here we received a billet upon the house of a beneficed clergyman, who had just returned from mass. When we had explained the errand on which we came, which indeed he seemed to understand, the first moment of our appearance, he got into a great fury, abusing the Juez, who, he said, had certainly a spite against him, which he indulged

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by billeting on him half the English officers who came to Santarem. He at the same time took from a little drawer a small handful of billets, Regardez Messieurs, regardez donc," he exclaimed, thus justifying himself for his want of temper. "You perceive," continued he, "what a fellow he is, all these officers have I had billeted upon me, since your army commenced its march.”

We would not suffer him to proceed further, but immediately told him we should have the billet exchanged. He then began to express his great regard for our nation, and the gratitude which he felt to the British army for their exertions in the cause of Spain. We thanked him for his good wishes, and returned to the Juez de Foro. I had not forgotten the beneficed clergyman at Mafra, and rejoiced to think that it was not midnight, and that it was now in our power to get our billet exchanged. · · In our second attempt we proved more fortunate, although again billeted upon an ecclesiastic. Indeed this town contains hardly any other class. He received us. with open arms, and requested we would command himself, his house, and all it contained. Two mattrasses were placed on the floor, on which we passed the night very comfortably.

This day the sky became overcast with dark clouds,