ters. This was too much for Captain

hastened out of the room.

and he

I have this moment learnt that Sir John Moore has granted my friend leave to return to England, on being fully informed of his situation. He is an excellent man, much esteemed by all who have the pleasure to know him, and will carry home with him the best wishes of this army. Adieu.

LETTER XVIII.

SIR JOHN MOORE'S ARMY SETTING OFF FOR SPAIN-MARCHES IN THREE DIVISIONS.-UNPOPULAR MEASURES ADOPTED BY THE REGENCY.— CHAPEL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST IN THE CHURCH OF ST. ROCHE.THE PORTUGUESE THEATRE.

Lisbon, 22d October, 1808.

I AM preparing, my dear friend, to set out for Spain, and have been engaged in purchasing animals for the carriage of my baggage. Great part of the army is already on its march; our department will follow in two days hence.

You know that Sir John Moore is chief in command of the army going into Spain; and that Sir Harry Burrard is to remain at the head of military affairs in Portugal.

The fortieth and eighty-second regiments, being rather sickly, are to remain here; all the rest of the army is in excellent condition. It appears a very long march from hence to Salamanca or Burgos, particularly as the roads in

this country are intolerably bad; but I hope that we shall make it out notwithstanding pretty well.

The army moves forward in three columns: the right, comprising the artillery and cavalry, under the command of Lieutenant-General Hope, will proceed by the route of Elvas and Badajos, towards Madrid. The left by way of Coimbra and Viseu to Almeida and Cuidad Rodrigo. While the centre will go up the right bank of the Tagus, by the way of Santarem and Abrantes, through Villa Velha, Castel Branco, and Guarda, towards Almeida and Cuidad Rodrigo. Sir John Moore's head-quarters will proceed by the central route, which is also that of the medical staff.

Several corps have been for some time cantoned in advance towards the Spanish frontiers; these will of course move on first, and as the army will proceed by single corps from town to town, the men will be by that means put under cover each night, which will be an effectual method of guarding against sickness. :

The Regency here have made themselves very unpopular of late, by a singular measure of finance, the object of which is to depress the current value of the Spanish dollars, in which the British army has in general been paid. Our Paymaster-general has for some time made payments in

gold Spanish pieces, which have also suffered a considerable depreciation. The troops grumble a good deal at this; and so do the trading part of the Portuguese. Many of the latter, who held any quantity of Spanish money, have lost considerably: I believe nearly fourpence on each dollar. From this fact you may judge of the political sagacity the Regency.

I regret leaving Portugal without having been able to visit Cintra, which is celebrated here as a sort of terrestrial paradise; but I have been so much occupied, that I have lost many sights, which I wished to have been able to describe to you.

I have, however, examined with attention the celebrated chapel of St. John the Baptist, which is certainly a chefd'œuvre of magnificence. It is unfortunately placed in an old church dedicated to St. Roche; and much of its beauty is lost from the want of a sufficiency of light to distinguish its parts. There being only one window, which is at the extremity of the building, the few rays of light which enter are thrown obliquely past the Mosaic chapel, without illuminating it.

This chapel contains three very fine Mosaic pictures, copied from the works of Raphael and Guido. That over

the altar is the Annunciation, and on the right and left are the baptism of our Saviour by St. John.. and the descent of the Holy Ghost. The altar is composed of lapis lazuli and amethyst, round which is a broad gold margin. The pavement is also wrought in Mosaic; and the pillars are blocks of jasper, verd antique, Egyptian granite, lapis lazuli, and alabaster. The doors by which you enter this chapel are of brass, exquisitely wrought and gilt; in the centre is suspended a large golden lamp. I am afraid to mention the immense sum which this oratory is said to have cost. It was made at Rome for king John the Fifth; and after having been erected there, and consecrated by the Pope, was pulled down, and sent hither by sea.

In the church is a singular old painting of St. Roche, painted in a hard gothic manner; but the expression of the Saint's head is delightful. I forget, however, that you are not quite so foolishly fond of pictures as I am, and I must curtail my notices on works of art for the future.

There is here a good opera-house, but there has been no performance in it since my arrival from Torres Vedras. Once I have seen a Portuguese play, but could not find enough of amusement to induce me to wish for a repetition. We are likewise exposed, in going home at midnight, to cascades from the windows of the inhabitants. Our friend